{"id":12223,"date":"2017-08-16T18:36:22","date_gmt":"2017-08-16T15:36:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/?p=12223"},"modified":"2018-09-23T10:01:46","modified_gmt":"2018-09-23T07:01:46","slug":"tips-for-finishing-doors","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/2017\/08\/16\/sfaturi-pentru-finisarea-usilor\/","title":{"rendered":"Tips for staining, varnishing and painting wooden doors"},"content":{"rendered":"

I've been meaning to write about refinishing wooden doors for a long time, but what convinced me was a post where someone asked for help from those in the know for tips on how to paint a wooden door to the best of your ability. I thought maybe he's not the only one, maybe there are others who take the time to DIY<\/a> so we've put together a few tips that might be useful.<\/p>\n

\"door
photo source: skoffphoto.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Wooden doors can be of many types: interior, exterior, veneered, solid panel, timber, etc. The finish can also be transparent or opaque, glossy or not, colored or natural. The choice of materials and finishing is made according to the type of door, in order to achieve the best results in terms of both durability and appearance.<\/p>\n

The first operation is wood sanding<\/strong><\/a>. Even if the sanding has been done in the factory, the wood has to be sanded again because in the meantime it has absorbed moisture from the air and the grain has risen. In addition, there may be stains, imprints, small scratches or other defects that may have occurred during storage. Sanding is done with sandpaper with a grain size between 120 and 180-200, depending on the species. Hardwood (oak<\/a>, fag<\/a>, nuc<\/a>) is sanded with coarser paper, the soft (fir, spruce<\/a>, plop<\/a>) with finer paper. Medium abrasive sponges can also be used. Sanding can also be done with simple sanding machines<\/a>. After sanding, the door is sanded down and wiped with ordinary thinner or technical spirit to remove any grease stains.<\/p>\n

\"door
photo source: kuchendesignideen.net<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Sometimes, during sanding, small defects such as fiber pulls or holes may be discovered. These should be chituite<\/strong>. Use wood putty<\/a> commercially available. Bear in mind that it dries out and overcoats, then sand to level the surface. Ordinary putties are compatible with both solvent-based and water-based putties, and no staining occurs after staining. It is also possible to make your own putty from wood dust and nitro or aracite varnish, but if you have never done this before, it is best not to experiment. The materials with which you will cover the door may not be compatible with these putties and spoil the final look.<\/p>\n

\"door
photo source: ronhazeltom.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

If a transparent finish is chosen, the door can be lacquered directly or it can be colored first. Depending on its intended use - interior or exterior - colouring<\/strong><\/a> It can be done with plain, ordinary baths or with special UV-resistant coloring solutions. When you buy your bath soaps, the fact that they are for outdoor use should be specified on the label. If you use regular bath salts, the color will fade and turn gray in a few months.<\/p>\n

\"door
photo source: youtube.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

You can apply the stain with a brush, cloth, sponge or mop. If the stain is solvent-based, choose a smudger or sponge that will last. They are available and not much more expensive. Being a relatively straight surface, I recommend you to apply with a mop. The amount applied is better controlled and you reduce the risk of staining. Do not apply a large amount of stain from the start. Wood absorbs differently and there is a risk of staining. It's better to go back the 2nd and 3rd time until you reach the desired color. The problem with doors is that although their large, straight surface can be easily refinished, the same surface will highlight flaws much better. I didn't say anything about spray-priming because I assumed no gun. If however you have a spray gun<\/a> information on application find here<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\"door
photo source: house-painting-info.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Do not sand after staining, even if you notice that the wood grain has risen a lot (especially with water-based stains). The color can be easily removed when sanding. Do this after applying the first coat of color-fixing primer.<\/p>\n

For priming and varnishing<\/strong> you can use the same or different products. Primer and varnish each have their role. The primer ensures adhesion to the wood, is easily sanded and covers better. Varnish has surface properties, i.e. resistance to physical, chemical or mechanical aggression, gloss, stain. There are also products that act as both primer and varnish and can be applied layer on layer with intermediate sanding. They have some disadvantages (more time-consuming sanding, lower surface resistance), but for DIY projects they are good because they reduce the quantity you have to buy and simplify things.<\/p>\n

\"door
photo source: scott-burt.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Both primers and varnishes are for indoor or outdoor use. Exterior varnishes contain UV absorbers that reduce the sun's aggressive action, are more elastic and more resistant to weathering. Indoor varnishes do not have these qualities and will crack and peel very quickly if used outdoors.<\/p>\n

After applying and drying the first coat of primer (or single product)\u00a0sanding between layers\u00a0<\/strong><\/a>to obtain a smooth, rough-free surface with a nice, pleasantly rough finish. Sanding is done with 280-320 sandpaper if the lacquer is matt, or over 400 if it is glossy. After sanding, wipe the surface with a dusting cloth. Do not use wet or dirty cloths as residues may remain which are incompatible with the next coat. After wiping, apply the 2nd coat of primer, if required, or the final coat of varnish. For hardwood<\/a> one coat of primer and one coat of varnish is sufficient. For soft one<\/a>Due to the higher absorption, a second coat of primer is required before the final coat.<\/p>\n

\"door
photo source: 17apart.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The varnishes and primers used can be of different types, more or less resistant, with or without hardening. I recommend that you do not bother with special varnishes, which are very hard and more difficult to apply, unless the door will be under very difficult conditions. For normal conditions, even if we're talking about bathrooms and kitchens in block of flats, water-based varnishes from DIY stores are very suitable.<\/p>\n

If for various reasons you want to cover the wood, it can be painted. Preparing in white is done in the same way and there is no need to stain. You use primers and varnishes tinted in the desired color, and the application and sanding between coats is done in the same way. When using light colors, the primer can be white regardless of the color to follow. If the final color is dark, a primer of the same color is recommended. Again, there are materials that can be applied layer by layer (primer and varnish).<\/p>\n

\"door
photo source: hgtv.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

Colored primers and varnishes are also available for exterior use. Like transparent ones, they are elastic and resistant to UV and weathering. In fact they are the most durable outdoor finishes, providing the best UV protection. The next most resistant are the matt clear and the least resistant are the high-gloss and matt clear. High-gloss has no pigments or matting agents to stand the sun's rays, while high-gloss (0-10) becomes porous and can absorb water.<\/p>\n

I set out to give you a few tips and ended up writing a whole story. However, I wanted to give you as much information as possible so that you can do the project without fear of getting it wrong. I wish you success and hope it will be helpful.<\/p>\n

\"door
photo source pezcome.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

De mult\u0103 vreme voiam s\u0103 scriu despre finisarea u\u0219ilor din lemn, dar ceea ce m-a convins a fost o postare \u00een care cineva ruga cunosc\u0103torii s\u0103-l ajute cu sfaturi pentru a putea vopsi singur, c\u00e2t mai bine, o u\u0219\u0103 din lemn. M-am g\u00e2ndit c\u0103 poate nu este singurul, poate mai sunt \u0219i al\u021bii care aloc\u0103 […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":12292,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_seopress_robots_primary_cat":"","_seopress_titles_title":"","_seopress_titles_desc":"Finisarea u\u0219ilor din lemn trebuie f\u0103cut\u0103 cu aten\u021bie pentru c\u0103 pe suprafa\u021ba lor plan\u0103 \u0219i mare se pot vedea cu u\u0219urin\u021b\u0103 defectele. C\u00e2teva sfaturi g\u0103si\u021bi aici.","_seopress_robots_index":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[2185,2563],"tags":[1808,1811,1810,1809,1812],"class_list":["post-12223","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-finisare-diy","category-usi-ferestre","tag-colorarea-usilor-din-lemn","tag-finisarea-usilor-pentru-exterior","tag-finisarea-usilor-pentru-interior","tag-lacuirea-usilor-din-lemn","tag-protejarea-usilor-de-lemn-la-exterior"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12223","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/5"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=12223"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12223\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":20025,"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12223\/revisions\/20025"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/12292"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=12223"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=12223"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=12223"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}