The main quality of oil is that it penetrates into the wood and increases its resistance to moisture. To maximize absorption, the wood should be sanded as properly as possible before application. Paper grain<\/a> sanding should not exceed 180. The aim is not to smooth the wood but to open the fiber ends so that the wood can easily absorb the oil<\/strong><\/em>. The finer the sanding paper (280, 320) the finer the resulting dust becomes and will close the fiber ends and pores, blocking them. Absorption will be hindered, the amount of oil getting into the wood will be less and therefore the resistance to moisture will be lower.<\/p>\n Wood-finishing oil is usually a mixture of several types of oil to provide the most complete protection. Among the natural oils, linseed oil<\/a> is best absorbed (because it has the smallest molecule) and is used in all mixtures.<\/p>\n Absorption is, however, different in softwood compared to hardwood.<\/strong>\u00a0As a result, for oiling softwood (fir, spruce<\/a>, plop<\/a>, arin<\/a>) oil can be used without dilution. For hardwood (oak<\/a>, frasin<\/a>, fag<\/a>, acacia<\/a>) the oil must be diluted. Natural diluents for oil are turpentine or white spirit (petrosin). However, you can also use universal thinners, which can be found in specialty stores. In general, 5-10% added thinner is sufficient to make the oil fluid and easily absorbed.<\/p>\n Apply a coat of excess oil and let the wood absorb it. Don't rush the process. Wood has its own rhythm and if you want a good result, you must be patient. Apply excess oil, wait 30-45 minutes and only then wipe off the excess with a soft cotton cloth.\u00a0<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n It is compulsory to wipe off the surplus remaining after the 45-minute wait<\/strong><\/em>. When oiling, most problems occur because this excess has not been wiped off. In contact with air, it becomes sticky and is quite difficult to remove to restart the process. Wiping is done with a soft cotton cloth that does not scratch or leave lint. We recommend cotton because it absorbs well, but other textiles can also be used. Sponges can also be used. But make sure it's the type of sponge that resists solvents.<\/p>\n The oil does not form a film because it does not dry thoroughly. Drying occurs only on the surface, where the oil comes into direct contact with the air. The rest remains liquid. So the amount left on the surface will turn into a sticky gel.<\/p>\n A squeegee is used to remove the gel, then the surface is washed with thinner. Allow to dry and check if it is still sticky. If so, wash again with thinner until it is no longer sticky. If not, continue finishing with a further coat of oil.<\/p>\n After the excess is wiped off, the remaining layer of oil on the surface of the wood will become very thin and dry. But it needs time. So,\u00a0leave a minimum of 24 hours between oil coats<\/strong><\/em>. After drying, the surface can be sanded with fine sandpaper (280-320) to make it pleasant to the touch. If the next coat is applied before the oil is dry, the amount absorbed will be reduced and the surface layer may become tacky.<\/p>\n Natural linseed oil dries very slowly, in 3-5 days, maybe even longer. To shorten the drying time, it is treated by boiling or by adding chemicals (sacidification). Boiling was used in the past and is still used today to treat natural oils.<\/p>\n The amount of oil absorbed also depends on how dry the wood is.<\/strong> In general, 2-3 coats are sufficient. You can tell if another coat is needed by the amount left on the surface of the wood after the 45 minute wait. If it is a large amount, the wood has reached saturation and does not need another coat.<\/p>\n The oil is also used to protect wood exposed outdoors. It is very good against moisture, but it has no resistance to UV radiation. Substances must be added to the oil that deflect UV radiation so that it does not reach the wood. This is why transparent outdoor products are always lightly colored. The most commonly used colorants are pigments. For a minimum of protection, the amount of pigment should not exceed 5%. The result is a very light color, almost invisible on thin layers of oil. The higher the amount of pigment, the more effective the protection, and it is at its maximum in the case of paints (when the wood is totally covered).<\/p>\n In conclusion,\u00a0Avoid totally transparent oils as they do not protect the wood well from the outside. <\/strong><\/em>Pigment-free oils are great against weathering, but wood will change color in the sun.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n Oil finishes are not very durable. Products used for cleaning, dust, weathering and the abrasive effect of wind combined with sand particles, in the case of exterior wood, cause the oil on the surface to fade over time. The appearance of the wood becomes dry, and unless a new coat is applied, the wood begins to change color, turning the gray of aged wood.<\/p>\n The advantage with oil is that reapplication is simple. The oil does not film, crack or flake, nor does it need sanding before applying another coat. The only thing you need to do is to clean the surfaces of any dirt on furniture or wooden objects indoors. Do this with water and dishwashing detergent (not the abrasive kind), then wipe clean and allow to rinse. Then apply a coat with an oil-soaked cloth and leave to dry. This time the oil is not over-applied.<\/p>\n It's not about any technique for oil-finishing wood, it's about avoiding the problems that can arise from rags or sponges soaked in oil or oil thinner. These products present a danger of self-combustion, especially if sunlight hits them<\/strong><\/em>. So, when you've finished working with them, put them in a bowl of water and cover them. Don't throw them in the trash as they are. Preferably you can water in the emptied oil container, put the rags in it and cover. Dispose of the container in its entirety in the designated disposal areas. Don't leave any residues lying around!<\/strong><\/em> Dry debris can also cause damage if the sun gets to it.<\/p>\n I hope you find these tips helpful. Do you have any comments, additions or questions? Leave them below in the space provided.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Finisarea cu ulei este una dintre cele mai vechi metode de protejare a lemnului, folosit\u0103 pentru a-i spori rezisten\u021ba la ap\u0103 \u0219i pentru a-i p\u0103stra aspectul natural. Mul\u021bi dintre cei care au ca hobby lucrul cu lemnul \u0219i finisarea lui \u00ee\u0219i doresc acest aspect natural. Cu toate c\u0103 aplicarea uleiului pare o opera\u021biune simpl\u0103, trebuie […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":22981,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_seopress_robots_primary_cat":"2175","_seopress_titles_title":"","_seopress_titles_desc":"Cu toate c\u0103 finisarea lemnului cu ulei pare o opera\u021biune simpl\u0103, trebuie respectate c\u00e2teva reguli pentru a ob\u021bine un rezultat bun \u0219i o finisare eficient\u0103.","_seopress_robots_index":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[2185,2175],"tags":[2678],"class_list":["post-22914","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-finisare-diy","category-finisaje","tag-finisarea-cu-ulei"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/22914","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/5"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=22914"}],"version-history":[{"count":15,"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/22914\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":37839,"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/22914\/revisions\/37839"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/22981"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=22914"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=22914"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=22914"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}![\"oil](\"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/tipuri-de-ulei.jpg\")
2. Give the oil time to absorb<\/span><\/h5>\n
3. Always wipe off any excess left on the wood surface<\/span><\/h5>\n
4. Do not rush the process. Allow the coats to soak into the wood and dry thoroughly<\/span><\/h5>\n
![\"oil](\"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/puterea-de-penetrare-a-uleiului-de-in.jpg\")
photo source: solventfreepaint.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n5. Do not use totally transparent oil if you are protecting wood used outdoors<\/span><\/h5>\n
![\"oil](\"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/ulei-de-tec-finisare-la-exterior.jpg\")
photo source: msnskins.net<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n6. Maintain the finish. Freshen it regularly<\/span><\/h5>\n
7. Beware of oil-soaked rags<\/span><\/h5>\n