{"id":23181,"date":"2019-05-16T14:58:16","date_gmt":"2019-05-16T11:58:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/?p=23181"},"modified":"2019-05-16T16:03:38","modified_gmt":"2019-05-16T13:03:38","slug":"5-finishing-tips-to-avoid-getting-rough-and-rough-surfaces","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/2019\/05\/16\/5-sfaturi-de-finisare-pentru-a-evita-obtinerea-suprafetelor-aspre-si-rugoase\/","title":{"rendered":"5 finishing tips to avoid rough and rough surfaces"},"content":{"rendered":"

It is not enough to use quality products to achieve smooth, non-scratch wood surfaces. The way the wood is prepared, how the primer or varnish is applied and sanded, as well as the thinning, the dust in the varnish application area are all factors that affect the quality of the film. Average quality varnishes can be used, but by sanding the wood and the primer correctly and applying the finishing products with a suitable trowel, brush or spray gun, very good quality surfaces can be achieved. Lacquers and primers, no matter how good, can't work wonders.<\/p>\n

Someone recently asked me, describing the whole process of refinishing an old solid oak parquet floor, why it resulted in an unpleasant to the touch, scratching surface. The answer may be useful to others too, so here are some tips that can help you achieve smooth, nicely-touched surfaces.<\/p>\n

1. Sand the wood properly before applying the wood stain or primer\/lacquer<\/h5>\n

Sanding wood is essential to achieve quality surfaces. I say it time and time again. Don't neglect this step because it will pay back later and it will be much harder to fix defects.<\/p>\n

Sanding raw wood<\/a> is done in stages. Ideally, 3 levels of sanding should be used, but if this is not possible and the wood is fairly well machined, you can also sand using a single grit. But it must be done carefully and carefully, without missing any corners or profiles. To make it easier to identify defects, the surface can be moistened before sanding (wet sanding). This can be done with solvent or water. If water is used, the surface should only be wiped with a wrung cloth to avoid increasing the moisture content of the wood.<\/p>\n

Use specific wood grains<\/a>. Do not go for very fine grits, usually used for varnish, because you will not get the desired result. On the contrary, other problems will arise, which you will find described at length here<\/a>. Use as final grain 150 for hardwood (oak<\/a>) and 180 for softer wood (plop<\/a>, brad<\/a>).<\/p>\n

The sanding is done to remove defects and to bring the fiber ends resulting from the flow to a common denominator. In this way the absorption will be uniform, stains will not appear and adhesion to the substrate will be good.<\/p>\n

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photo: sawsonskates.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
2. Always sand after the first coat of primer or varnish<\/h5>\n

After the first filming coat, sanding should be done to remove the high wood grain. The wood is not sanded after application but only after it has been coated with a coat of primer\/lacquer. This first coat must be absorbed by the wood for the film to adhere. During absorption the ends of the fibers lift up, are \"coated\" with varnish and dry out and become very unpleasant to the touch. The better the wood has been sanded, the smaller the raised grain is and the easier it is to sand away.<\/p>\n

Sand the first coat of primer or varnish<\/a> is done with sanding paper with a minimum grain size of 240. Sanding with a coarser paper (below 240) results in the removal of a large amount of primer or varnish. This leads to losses and increased costs. Another drawback is that the rice grains from coarse sanding become visible on the final film.<\/p>\n

As with sanding wood, sanding primer must be done carefully and carefully. This is the stage when the varnish-laden wood grain is removed. Later it will be harder to remove because each layer will deposit a new amount on the raised grain and make it harder and harder to slice it off. Thicker paper will have to be used and you end up with the above problems. If this step is done well and no problems occur later when applying the final coat of varnish, you will get a quality surface.<\/p>\n

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photo: popularwoodworking.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
3. Thin primer and varnish as directed. Do not apply thick coats<\/h5>\n

Don't apply thick coats in the hope of finishing faster because problems will occur:<\/p>\n