{"id":26780,"date":"2020-06-10T20:15:39","date_gmt":"2020-06-10T17:15:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/?p=26780"},"modified":"2020-06-11T22:17:40","modified_gmt":"2020-06-11T19:17:40","slug":"tung-oil-wood-oil-that-makes-a-film-and-resists-moisture-very-well","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/2020\/06\/10\/uleiul-de-tung-uleiul-pentru-lemn-care-face-pelicula-si-rezista-foarte-bine-la-umezeala\/","title":{"rendered":"Tung oil - the wood oil that makes a film and resists moisture very well"},"content":{"rendered":"

I have already mentioned tung oil when we talked about natural oils or about Danish oil<\/a>. Now we will deal with it separately, because it is an important wood finishing oil that is coming back into the insiders' favorites. It is part of the group of products with a long life in wood protection, along with linseed oil<\/a> or shellac<\/a>. In their pure state, they are all natural products and have been used to beautify and protect wood since ancient times. Over the last hundred years, they have been gradually replaced by chemically derived products, which are stronger and cheaper, but not always healthy for people and the environment. In addition, when finished with synthetics, wood sometimes loses the natural look and silky sheen that it gets from oils or shellac. Oils have made a comeback and are now sharing the wood-finishing market with synthetic varnishes and paints, which have also become safer or less aggressive.<\/p>\n

What is tung oil<\/h5>\n

Tung oil is a natural product obtained from the seeds of the nuts of the tung tree (Vernicia fondii), native to China. It is also called Chinese wood oil<\/strong><\/em> (China wood oil), wood oil<\/strong><\/em> or walnut oil<\/strong><\/em>. The oil's ability to protect wood against water has been known since the time of Confucius (500-400 B.C.). His writings relate methods of treating the wood of ships with tung oil to increase their strength. Also described is the treatment of paper umbrellas with tung oil to make them water-resistant.<\/p>\n

Closer to our own times, tung oil was burned in lamps for light, then used in varnishes and paints, and even refined for fuel. After tung oil was discovered worldwide, the tree began to be cultivated in Argentina, Brazil, Paraguay and the USA, which have now become producers of tung oil alongside China. Tung oil (pronounced tong in Chinese) is light but hard, and is sometimes used as a substitute for balsa wood.<\/p>\n

Tung oil penetrates the wood and makes the film resistant to moisture and ... acetone<\/h5>\n

Its use as a wood preservative starts from the fact that it polymerizes in contact with air, becoming solid. Its liquid consistency allows it to penetrate into the wood, so the protection goes deep into the wood (it can penetrate more than 5 mm into the wood), giving the wood good resistance to moisture. After finishing, the wood takes on a very pleasant, silky matt appearance, its color darkens slightly and persists over time, without the yellow tint typical of flaxseed oil and varnishes. Tung oil contains a very high percentage of a component which reacts in the presence of oxygen in the air and causes it to polymerize at a rate of 100%, resulting in advanced cross-linking which gives the oil its strength. So, unlike other oils, tung oil fully hardens and can form a film. The bonds formed also do not degrade over time, making the tung oil finish durable. The film formed is resistant to acetone or vegetable acids from fruits or vegetables.<\/p>\n

Pure oil dries slowly, in a few days. In order to shorten the drying time, pre-polymerization is carried out by heating at 260\u00b0C in the absence of oxygen. The result is an oil with a much higher viscosity and improved film-forming properties. To penetrate the wood, this oil is diluted, at least for the first coat. Use organic solvents, white spirit, turpentine or organic thinner made from lemon peel. Pure oil can be used for finishing food contact objects. If diluted, it loses this capacity, except when diluted with organic thinner from lemon peel.<\/p>\n<\/i>\u00a0Tung oil can be coated with wax, varnish or paint. When hardened like a normal film, there is no longer the classic slip of paints on the oiled surface, as adhesion is ensured by sanding between coats.<\/p>\n

\"tung<\/p>\n

How to apply<\/h5>\n

Finishing with pure tung oil in the traditional style takes patience and time. The oil is applied in several coats and the drying time between coats is long. It takes time to fully polymerize and maximum strength is achieved weeks after the application process is complete.<\/p>\n

To penetrate as deeply as possible into the wood, the first coat is diluted 1:1. Apply with a brush or lint-free cotton cloth. Cloths from old T-shirts are best. Apply in excess, allow 30 min. for the wood to absorb, then wipe off excess. Leave to dry for at least 24 hours, then apply the second coat, diluted less (2 parts oil to 1 part thinner). With each coat applied the amount of thinner added decreases. Sand between coats with very fine sandpaper (800-1000) and steel wool. If the sanding produces white dust, the oil is well dry. If the film is gummy, the drying time should be extended.<\/p>\n

Between 2 and 5 coats can be applied, depending on how much the wood absorbs and how you want the film to look. The final coat is applied undiluted and takes up to 30 days for the film to reach maximum hardness and strength. The resulting film has a warm, very pleasant, warm yellow-brown color that does not change over time. It is not glossy, with a silky matt appearance.<\/p>\n

The advantage of protecting the wood very well turns into a disadvantage if the finish coat has to be removed. If the oil is not yet hardened, use thinner, sandpaper and patience. If it is hardened, a thin layer of wood must be sanded and even removed because otherwise some oil will remain in the pores and wood grain.<\/p>\n

WARNING!<\/strong><\/em> After application, all used rags, oil residues and other ancillary materials that have come into contact with the oil are placed in a bowl of water. Tung oil, like all oils, also burns itself. The sun and the heat of summer accelerate this phenomenon, but the oil-soaked scraps and rags must also be placed in water in winter.<\/em><\/p>\n

The differences between tung and linseed oil<\/h5>\n

Tung oil is often compared to linseed oil because both are used for finishing wood. In fact, a mixture of the two makes a popular finishing product on the market - Danish oil. Both are natural and have long been traditionally used for wood finishing. They are appreciated for the natural look of the wood after application and the moisture resistance they give.<\/p>\n

However, there are important differences between the two types of oil. Here are some of them:<\/p>\n<\/i>\u00a0Unlike tung oil, which polymerizes 100% polymerizing fully hardening, linseed oil never fully hardens. Any linseed oil that remains unabsorbed must be wiped off because it remains sticky without solidifying.<\/p>\n<\/i> Surfaces finished with tung oil are harder than those finished with linseed oil (also due to advanced polymerization). Linseed oil does not form a film, whereas tung oil does.<\/p>\n<\/i> Linseed oil has a shorter molecule than tung oil and penetrates more easily into the wood without the need for dilution.<\/p>\n<\/i> Linseed oil changes color over time becoming more yellow. The color change in tung oil is almost imperceptible.<\/p>\n<\/i> Pure linseed oil dries much more slowly than pure tung oil. Boiling shortens the drying time for both.<\/p>\n<\/i> Tung oil is more resistant to moisture than linseed oil.<\/p>\n<\/i> Tung oil is more resistant to mold growth than linseed oil.<\/p>\n<\/i> Linseed oil is cheaper than tung oil.<\/p>\n

Mixing them in different proportions results in very high quality oils for finishing wooden surfaces that combine the qualities of the two oils. The result is hard floor oils or deep penetrating oils, oils with high outdoor resistance or cheaper interior oils.<\/p>\n

\"tung<\/p>\n

Tung oil as a commercial product<\/h5>\n

There are many products on the finishing materials market that bear the name tung oil, but few are 100% tung oil. Many are blends of various oils, even oils with waxes, in which there is a greater or lesser amount of tung oil, and this is reflected in the price of the product. The most popular blend is Danish oil, but this too has many variations, and in some the tung oil is completely missing.<\/p>\n

There are also products with names that sound like tung oil (tung oil finish), but which do not have tung oil at all in the formula. To avoid being misled, check the composition on the label. If it is missing, the product is definitely suspect because no one would have an interest in hiding the presence of tung oil in their product.<\/p>\n

The best indicator of product quality is price. A cheap product will have a small percentage of tung oil or none at all. But don't be fooled by a high price either. When the product is advertised as a quality product, ask for the data sheet, product data sheet or safety data sheet, or read the label carefully. No serious company will hide the composition of the product while charging a high price for it.<\/p>\n

Oils are natural products that give wood a special look. Those who have seen walnut wood<\/a>of ulm,<\/a> from paltin<\/a> or palisander<\/a> oiled, I know what I'm talking about. The oil really brings out the wood's natural grain and grain. And tung oil does this best. It also protects the surface and makes it tough and durable. If you work with solid wood, try this finish at least once. You won't regret it.<\/p>\n

\"tung<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Despre uleiul de tung am mai amintit c\u00e2nd am vorbit despre uleiurile naturale sau despre Danish oil. Acum \u00eel vom aborda separat, pentru c\u0103 este un ulei important pentru finisarea lemnului care revine \u00een preferin\u021bele ini\u021bia\u021bilor. Face parte din grupul produselor cu vechime \u00een protec\u021bia lemnului, al\u0103turi de uleiul de in sau shellac. \u00cen stare […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":26805,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_seopress_robots_primary_cat":"2175","_seopress_titles_title":"","_seopress_titles_desc":"","_seopress_robots_index":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[2185,2175],"tags":[218,1040],"class_list":["post-26780","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-finisare-diy","category-finisaje","tag-finisare-lemn","tag-ulei-de-tung"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/26780","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/5"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=26780"}],"version-history":[{"count":16,"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/26780\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":26851,"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/26780\/revisions\/26851"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/26805"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=26780"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=26780"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=26780"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}