![\"stripping](\"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/indepartarea-vopselei.jpg\")
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According to the DEX, pickling is the removal of grease or oxides from metals. However, the term has also been adopted for cleaning wood, and the solution used for this purpose is called paint stripper. Names of pickling solution in English\u00a0paint remover<\/em>\u00a0or in Italian\u00a0paint stripper,<\/em>\u00a0are more accurate because they refer strictly to paint removal. But the market has adopted the term paint stripper and under this name you will find the solutions in specialty stores.<\/p>\n We choose stripping especially when the shape of the object or the carvings present on the surface of the wood make removing old paint layers by other methods<\/a> to be very difficult. The best method for such surfaces would be sandblasting<\/a> with less harsh abrasives (baking soda, crushed walnut shells, corn cobs), but it's harder to find wood sanding specialists and the method is expensive.<\/p>\n Stripping doesn't cost a lot of money and doesn't require special equipment or special skills. It takes patience because it's not enough to just apply a coat of paint stripper and the problem is solved. Most of the time the procedure needs to be repeated 2-3 times to completely remove the paint. After applying the paint stripper, the paint will soften and must be removed with a scraper. Thin tools must be used on difficult surfaces and often the surface also needs to be washed with thinner to thoroughly clean the wood. I did this when I cleaned the doors of the Church of Santa Claus. Find here<\/a>\u00a0detailed step-by-step information.<\/p>\n Paint strippers are solutions that attack the paint, making paint removal much simpler. They are either very aggressive solvents or acids or bases that attack the bonds inside the resin, destroying it. Restrictions on the use of products now considered dangerous to health have made paint strippers less and less aggressive. In a way, I agree with those who say that \"in their day\", paint strippers were better. Yes, they were much more aggressive and very rarely had to be repeated, but they were also much more dangerous.<\/p>\n Solvents<\/strong><\/span> are used more in factories because their strong odor is hard to bear. In factories, there are powerful exhaust systems that remove solvent vapors, but even so it is difficult to work without a mask and protective equipment.<\/p>\n Oil and alkyd paint strippers<\/strong><\/span> are based on caustic soda. They attack the inner bonds in the resin, turning the paint, oil or varnish into a liquid that washes out with water. The problem in this case may be the water used for washing. On old and sensitive objects, too much water may not do any good. But if the wood is sound, this method is preferable because it easily and thoroughly removes old coatings.<\/p>\n Universal water-based paint strippers<\/span><\/strong> are the most commonly used. They are generally in gel form because they take time to work. If you have a choice between a liquid and a gel stripper, choose the gel, it's much more effective. The differences between the different brands are due to the concentration of the active substance, hence the greater or lesser effectiveness of the products. Only by testing them can you determine which is better. Until recently, I thought that Decanol, from Policolor, was a good stripper. I even recommended it many times. I worked with it 8-10 years ago and it was very effective. A couple of months ago, when I was working on the doors of the Pitar Mo\u0219 church, I tested three paint strippers: Decanol, Dekapant gel Kober and Supralux universal extra strong stripper. Out of all of them, Decanol was the weakest, Supralux paint stripper being far more effective.<\/p>\n The paint stripper is applied with a brush in a not very thin coat and left for the time recommended by the manufacturer, usually between 20 and 30 minutes. During this time the paint layer softens and sometimes wrinkles a little. Paint stripper does not work well at very low temperatures. Avoid drying it at high temperatures. A damp, wrung cotton cloth placed on top prevents drying and may increase the effect on the paint coat.<\/p>\n The soaked layer is removed with a squeegee, a narrow chisel or a wire brush with coarse bristles and bonnets. The brush is effective when the surface has intricate patterned carvings. It is not simple and takes a lot of patience. Soaked varnish often clings to the brush and must be left in thinner to clean well. If the surfaces are straight, cleaning is simpler and quicker. Very rarely the surface is completely cleaned in one operation, but the hardest is the first time. Over time the paint becomes softer and easier to remove.<\/p>\n After total removal of the paint coat, the surface sometimes remains sticky and should be wiped with a thinner recommended by the paint stripper manufacturer. If there is no such recommendation, use a washing or universal thinner. If wiping with a cloth is not sufficient, apply the thinner with a brush and wipe with a clean cloth.<\/p>\n Before repainting, it is recommended to sand the wood as for white sanding<\/a>. The old finish has penetrated into the pores of the wood, and to ensure uniform color and adhesion of the subsequent coats, the pores must be opened. This is the purpose of sanding. If staining is attempted without this sanding, the wood may not absorb enough and light spots may appear.<\/p>\nAre there different kinds of paint stripper or just different brands?<\/span><\/h5>\n
The three main types of paint strippers<\/span><\/h5>\n
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![\"stripping](\"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/decapanti-2.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"all-purpose](\"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/decapant.jpg\")
<\/p>\nPaint stripper application and removal<\/span><\/h5>\n
![\"stripping](\"https:\/\/revistadinlemn.ro\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/revopsire.jpg\")
<\/p>\nPreparing wood for repainting<\/h5>\n