The BIFE SIM 2016 am cunoscut o mulțime de oameni interesanți. Printre ei și o pereche de tineri din Ovidiu, Constanța. Au început prin a ne mulțumi că suntem în spațiul online pentru că au de unde afla tot felul de informații legate de lemn. Tineri întreprinzători au un mic atelier de tâmplărie și pare că le răspunsesem la multe întrebări și aflaseră informații noi despre lemn. (Între timp afacerea lor a crescut. Ei ne-au ajutat să scriem, în ediția tipărită în septembrie 2018 a Revista din Lemn, despre tranziția de la un atelier de tâmplărie la o mică fabrică de mobilă.) Și pentru că tot ajunseseră la noi la stand, tânărul m-a rugat atunci să-i răspund la o întrebare. Care este diferența dintre baiț, lazură și vopsea? În mod sigur și alte persoane ar dori să știe care sunt diferențele dintre aceste materiale pentru colorarea lemnului, așa că voi menționa și aici ceea ce am răspuns atunci.
Baițul pentru lemn – colorează și lasă fibra lemnului vizibilă
Baițul este numele dat soluțiilor transparente care colorează lemnul. Este adaptarea cuvântului german „beize”, care înseamnă „pată”. Foarte multe cuvinte tehnice provin din limba germană, considerată limba tehnicii în trecut.
Baițul este soluția obținută printr-una dintre modalitățile următoare:
- dizolvarea coloranților solizi în apă sau în solvenți organici
- diluarea cu apă sau solvenți organici a concentratelor de culoare lichide, până la intensitatea dorită.
Baițurile colorează lemnul astfel încât fibra și desenul natural rămân vizibile fiind chiar puse în valoare. Amănunte privind tipurile de baiț și metodele de aplicare găsiți here.
Lazura – colorează și protejează lemnul exterior fiind semitransparentă
Lazura sau lazur, este numele dat unor materiale ce colorează lemnul aflat la exterior. Termenul vine tot din germană și definește un material care colorează lemnul, dar oferă și protecție. Sunt soluții de colorare semitransparente, denumite uneori și impregnanți pentru exterior, care au în componență coloranți, rășini și aditivi rezistenți la acțiunea radiației UV, intemperiilor, mucegaiului și ciupercilor, uneori și a insectelor.
So lazura nu este un baiț simplu, un amestec de apă și colorant, ci un produs mai complex, care colorează și protejează lemnul folosit la exterior. Lemnul poate fi acoperit doar cu lazură sau cu lazură și materiale peliculogene (lacuri) rezistente la exterior.
Vopseaua – colorare opacă și protecție asemănătoare lacului
Paint este materialul de colorare opac care acoperă lemnul total și îl protejează împotriva agenților fizici și chimici, a șocurilor mecanice, etc. Dacă vopseaua este lucioasă se mai numește și email. Este practic un lac care are în compoziție un procent mai mare de paste colorante pe bază de pigmenți (20-40%), lacul puerzându-și astfel total transparența. Vopseaua are toate caracteristicile obișnuite ale unui lac – grad de luciu (gloss), rezistențe fizice, chimice, mecanice.
Este folosită pentru a colora și proteja lemnul sau plăcile derivate din lemn, furniruite sau nu. Există vopsele pentru interior și pentru exterior, în funcție de bazele și pastele colorante folosite la obținerea lor.
În concluzie, baițul, lazura și vopseaua sunt materiale pentru colorarea lemnului și a plăcilor derivate din lemn. Diferența dintre ele este dată de transparență, consistență și uneori, de domeniul unde sunt folosite.
I hope you find the above information useful. As always, additions are welcome. And if you have any questions or queries, please leave them below in the space provided. I will be sure to reply.
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Hello! I too have been waiting for a long time for an answer to this question! Thank you!
With pleasure. And thank you for following us.
If the original dyeing with water dye, can I use the over side because it has kinda degraded after 3 years ? Thank you.
The most suitable for fences are waxed impregnations. They stain and protect the wood without forming a film that cracks over time (some even quite quickly).
In case you have painted you should still use a water-based paint. Sand a little beforehand for adhesion. If it has been fairly well "washed" by the weather and has been removed, you can use wax impregnants or other types of lazures.
Sarutmana, I cut a mulberry tree and made two rustic backed chairs, a table and a bench (logs basically). How would be best to protect them against weather and insects? Should I let them dry out first? Do I also need to coat the bark with something? Thank you 🙂
Good evening,
Normally it should have been left to dry before working with it. You can leave it to dry now, but cracks will appear. It's good to leave the bark on to prevent water from coming out quickly. If you can, keep the objects at a constant temperature (basement would be ideal), away from strong sunlight. Against insects and mould you can apply insect and fungicide substances. They should be available at DIY stores. Now that it is still wet, it will absorb a little, but it will still be protected.
If you want you can protect it with wax or linseed oilbut not with varnishes. Lacquers make the film and now, when the wood is still wet, it moves and the film cracks. Wax and oil let the wood move and prevent water from escaping quickly (which always leads to cracks).
All the best!
Bath is the generic name given to transparent solutions for staining wood.
If it is transparent, how do you colour it?
Transparent does not mean colourless. Applying a wood stain to wood stains the wood without covering it, its grain shows through. After drying, varnish is applied and the result is a transparent coloured finish.
Hello, yes, I wasn't paying attention, can I apply paint with car oil on wood?
thank you
Only if you are still applying oil-based paint and only if you have not applied a large amount of oil. If the wood absorbs a lot of oil in the summer when it is very hot, the oil expands and tends to come out, pushing the paint layer on top.
Kiss my hand! I'm terrified of a situation, a specialist shop recommended me the Köber extra eco-polish code ig8289 on dark oak for some outdoor objects (chairs, benches, tables) and for even better protection they also recommended me the parkettlack parquet eco-polish also from Köber code L8301WL taking into account that the objects will only stay outside and will be used as such. After applying the 3 coats of lacquer on the dry and finished wood the colour was very very nice and after 8 hours I applied 3 coats of parquet ecolac according to the instructions on the box at two hour intervals. Twelve hours later I was horrified to see that the lacquer peeled off on further pressure with the fingernail becoming really whitish and unsightly. I went to the shop and they apologised that the ecolac was supposed to be applied directly to the wood, not over the varnish, i.e. they are incompatible. It says on the ecolac that it is to be applied on wooden and unpainted or already coated surfaces. (Which means already coated) I don't even know what to do in this situation, what is this varnish designed for? It says that the surface can be subjected to light traffic over 8 hours and normal traffic over 3 days. I'll leave it for 3 more days but I think I'm leaving it for nothing and the solution I suspect is to remove the varnish with sandpaper and at the same time clean the latex because I tried to sample it. Hoping I have helped with something as others only proceed as I did and go on the simple variant without N protective coats as look what happens. I ignored the Sadolin variant (best on protection and wood color) because of cost and went on the medium one, it cost me even more as I had to get the ecolac too, I lost both money and work. All good!
I'm sorry you had to go through such an experience. Parquet varnish is not recommended outdoors because it is hard and has reduced elasticity. If you had stayed with the varnish it would have been enough. The varnish does not adhere to the lacquer layer, it comes off and air gets in between the 2 layers, because of this it whitens. The situation will not improve over time, so I recommend removing the lacquer layer by sanding. It must be removed completely, otherwise everything you put on top will peel off. Use thinner and do not apply many coats. Many coats does not mean protection but a thick layer that cracks faster. It is best to maintain the finish year after year. There are maintenance options that will help prolong the life of your outdoor items.
It's good not to ignore quality products, even if they come with a high price tag.
Hello,
Can you please tell me, what is recommended for solid wood kitchen furniture, painting or bathing?
Thank you
That depends on what you want, because there are hard-wearing products for every type of finish.
If you do the bathing and then apply transparent varnishes you will enjoy the beauty of the wood, because the bathing will highlight the design of the wood by staining it and the transparent finish will give resistance and will let the wood grain show through.
With paint you cover the wood and in my opinion, it's a pity. Generally, painted kitchen furniture is made of MDF not solid wood. An opaque finish can be applied, but in a thin layer. It is the way some rustic finishes are done. The wood (especially pine) is covered with a white, cream or grey coating. If patinas are applied the effect is even more beautiful.
You can find more about kitchen furniture in the link below.
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/03/27/sugestii-pentru-un-mobilier-de-bucatarie-rezistent/
All the best!
Hello
I want to tint and protect some windows and I've been reading your articles but I didn't really understand the order of operations:
1 Grunt
2. Bait
3. Lazura
4. Lake
I ask because I found this lazura: https://www.dedeman.ro/sibiu/ecolasure-extra-kober-wenge-0-75l/p/5007480 and under technical specifications it says "Requires prior priming: Yes".
As far as I understand for the colour I have to decide between bait and varnish and for the exterior varnish is preferable (in the sense that both colour the wood).
In conclusion, I am interested in the correct timing of the staining and protection operations required for wooden windows.
A typical clear finish cycle is bait (the solution that stains the wood), primer (clear lacquer-like solution that sticks very well to the wood and is easy to sand) and varnish (also clear, with surface properties: scratch resistance, nice sheen, gloss, etc).
Lazura is a kind of coloured varnish for outdoors. Check if the product you bought is the colour you want. If you want your windows to be deeply tinted, you need to apply a first coat of exterior stain (it is very important that it is sun resistant). After drying apply the primer recommended by the varnish manufacturer and finally the varnish.
If you think that the lacquer colour is sufficient, then apply 1-2 coats of primer, then apply the lacquer.
It is best to follow the manufacturer's instructions. He knows best how to apply the products.
Good luck!
Thank you very much for your answer, before I read this answer I associated Lazura with Bait and not with the Lake. The deep colouring I hope I understand correctly you mean Bait. As a conculsion I understand that I have the following options (respecting the manufacturer's instructions):
All versions are for outdoor use.
Variant 1:
a) 1-2-3 layers of Grund (+sanding)
b) 1-2 starts of Lazura
In this version Lazura is the one who gives the color
Variant 2
a) 1-2 coats of Bait ("deep staining") - on this version the Bait stains the wood
b) 1-2 coats of Grund (+sanding)
c) 1-2 coats of Lac (clear lacquer)
Variant 3
a) 1-2 starts of Bait ("deep staining") - on this version the Bait stains the wood
b) 1-2 coats of Grund (+sanding)
b) 1-2 starts of Lazura (now if Lazura is coloured it will cover the colour of the bath, if it is transparent it will behave like a transparent Lake)
I would also like to ask you which of the options you would choose for wooden windows exposed to sun/radiation, temperature differences from -30C - +40C, water/rain/snow. I would like them to have a nice look and be weather resistant like windows coated with some oil based paint I am thinking.
Also what would you recommend me to choose water based products or solvent based products or etc.
Thank you very much!
I would go for the last option, provided that the coating applied as a layer (one layer is enough) is resistant to the outside (you can find such products on the market under the name of impregnants).
The lacquer is not like a paint that totally covers. It is a transparent coloured varnish. The fact that it is coloured is very good, because the pigments inside make it more resistant over time compared to transparent colourless varnish.
Water-based products are now widely used. They are the latest generation of products. They are the products that are used by all the big factories that make wooden windows of the thermopane type.
Good luck!
if you use coloured lye, why is it necessary to bathe? I have a dry pine shed and I want to protect it on the outside. I'm thinking of just giving primer + oak-coloured varnish (it's the lightest).
No longer necessary, primer and coloured varnish is sufficient.
The wood stain applied directly to the wood enhances its natural design. It also colours it, but if you use a wood-like colour (pine, in the case of the cottage you are talking about), the colour is not so visible, but the design is.
Hello,
I am writing this message in the hope that you can help me with a useful answer.
A little while ago I purchased brown treated resinous decking wood, impregnated against insects and fungi - with the idea of using it to build a fence.
Right now, I want to paint the wood white, but the white exterior wood paint is not catching (I suspect this is because the wood is treated).
Can you help me with some advice/information on what to use to be able to paint the wood white (as opaque as possible)?
Thank you very much!
Constantin
Hello,
If the wood is, as you say, for decking and is autoclaved, it's pretty hard to get anything on top. You can try sanding it a bit (with a coarse abrasive sponge). If sanding works, i.e. you can see how the wood grain is lifted and activated, then you can apply white paint after sanding the surface.If nothing happens when sanding, the wood remains unchanged, then the wood does not allow any further finishing.
There is also the possibility that the white paint is incompatible with what is given on the wood (it looks as if the layers are repelled, like oil and water) and then you have to use a different kind of paint. That is, if you used a water-based paint, try a solvent-based paint, or if it is oil-based, try water or solvent.
For exterior white paint the easiest way is to use alkyd paint (old oil paint).You have to write matte paint on it and even then you are not sure it is matte enough. But it is mandatory that the coats, if the wood has been painted before, are compatible.
All the best!
Hello!
I would like to ask you a question about the uniformity of colour, to some extent, of a worktop made of two different pieces: oak and acacia.
The piece of oak was a special piece in the sense that the edges were curved and we wanted to keep this shape. Now the problem is with the very big difference in colour.
Thank you and all the best!
Hello!
You can use a coloured varnish. The transparency will be preserved but the colour will not be absorbed deeply and will even out the look.
The wood can be stained with a pigment-based stain (a very dilute paint). The pigment stays on the surface and evens out the colour.
If you don't want it coloured, you can bleach the two surfaces so that their colour is as close as possible. See below for an article on bleaching techniques. I also leave articles on even colouring.
Good luck!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/04/19/albirea-si-decolorarea-lemnului-dupa-indepartarea-vechiului-finisaj/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/12/06/colorarea-lemnului-recomandari-pentru-un-aspect-fara-pete/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2016/09/12/colorare-mobilier-combinat-masiv-panou/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2021/10/27/cum-te-ajuta-baitul-pe-baza-de-solvent-sa-obtii-colorarea-uniforma-a-lemnului/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2016/11/02/salcamul-cel-puternic-rezistent-si-frumos/
Hello
I need some advice. I have a fairly large pine fence (90m wide, 1.80m high - front/side) that the first year after I apply primer + colourless varnish is partially peeling (on the wood supporting the boards in the first phase).
I've already given it away 2- 3 times in 7 years and it seems pointless the effort to maintain it. It sits in the summer in the sun but also in the wind rain etc the rest of the year.
Now it's partially flayed after 2 years (part of it) and totally skinned after 4 years (the part I didn't have the strength to finish 2 years ago).
Please recommend a product that is guaranteed not to peel in the sun + weather for at least 5 years - or 10 or 15...
With gratitude
Marilena
Hello,
You must use products that do not make film, i.e. wax (wax impregnants) or oil. Unfortunately these products will not prevent the already existing varnish from peeling off. You should clean it completely and apply wax or oil impregnation, or apply where the varnish is already gone, and continue next year when the rest of the varnish is gone.
Wax and oil are less resistant over time compared to varnish, but they have the advantage of not filming. They are "washed off" in rainy weather and depending on the amount initially applied, you should apply another coat after 2-3 years (if you think you need to).
All the best!
Hello. I have a fence now done and I would like to give it waxed impregnation. Do they come in white? Can you give me a product name? Thanks
Hello. There is a white colour, but the colour does not cover the fibre like a paint does. That's why white is more of a butter colour, not that paper white.
For such products it is best to turn to suppliers of wood varnishes and paints. You will also receive instructions for application and maintenance.
All the best.
Hello! I recently bought a garden shed. I have treated the wood so far with linseed oil. Can I continue to use varnish? Thank you and all the best!
To be able to apply the oil, it must still be oil-based, or more time must have passed since you applied the oil and it has been "washed off" by the rain. Otherwise it has no adhesion. If the wood is heavily soaked in oil it is possible that any other material you apply on top of it will not have any adhesion.
All the best!
Good evening. Please tell me if an area of 100 m2 of wood (pine) painted with Trilak or Trinat (I think varnish for exterior) color Rosewood, can be painted with paint also brand Trilak.
The surface is inside.
Thank you
Hello,
It is not the brand that is important, but the nature of the paint. If the varnish was for outdoor use, then it might as well have been water-based. In this case a coat of paint can be applied on top. But you need to clean the surface (wiped with a cloth with water and detergent to remove the dirt that has built up over time) and sand lightly so that the paint layer has adhesion.
All the best!
Sarut mana! Thank you for your answer. The wood is not soaked in linseed oil. And I think you should use oil-based varnish. Can you recommend me what to use. Thank you very much for your answer! Good night!
Hello,
I found a lot of interesting things among your articles. Can you please give me some advice, I have a pine cabinet that sits on the balcony,...it is not yet painted with anything but it would be necessary. How could I give it a colour but not lose its hue. From what I've read, pine needs a different treatment so it doesn't change colour. Thank you.
Hello.
I understand that you want to protect the cabinet without changing the natural color of the pine. The point is that pine changes color very quickly (immediately after cutting), especially if it sits in direct light (outside). It has already changed colour and continues the process with each passing day (it will become darker and darker - yellow-brown). Unfortunately, wood that sits outside cannot be protected with totally transparent varnishes. They have to contain some amount of pigment. Such products change the colour of the wood a little but are not like paints, they cover the wood. The wood grain continues to show through. Look in the shop transparent lazures and take pine (or something similar: douglas, resinous).
Good luck!
Hi, I would like an indication how to protect an exterior structure of resinous wood for a balcony and I would like to know what product to give it to protect it best wood is not finished. Thank you very much.
Good evening,
Use water-based wax or water-soluble wax coloured for exterior use. Don't use totally transparent products (they must contain a little pigment) or very glossy ones to have a long-lasting resistance. Non-film forming products (such as wax) are recommended because those that do form a film, if it cracks over time, peel and look ugly.
All the best.
Hello. I bought a lazure from Kaufland and it is too dark. Is it possible to change to a lighter colour? Thanks in advance.
Good evening,
If it is water-based you can dilute with water, but no more than 10%. The disadvantage is that it will lift the wood grain more and the surface will be rougher.
It is best to take a colorless exterior varnish from the same range (same brand) and mix the two in the proportion that will result in the desired color.
If there is no colourless varnish you can look for dark colours in the same range (pine, douglas, etc) to make the mix.
All the best.
Thanks a lot for the advice and if you don't mind, I will keep this place in mind, where a patient person helps the less initiated. Thank you once again.
Handshake... I have a question too. I made shelves for a pantry, they are made of fir wood and are finished. Now what would be the best thing to put on them to protect them better and make them beautiful? I would like mahogany or something close to it.... thank you very much....
Good evening,
What does it mean, are they finished, have they already been bathed or varnished? If so, then you need to give it something compatible with the undercoats. The easiest way would be to get a mahogany coloured water-based varnish. That way you won't have any problems with whatever the finish is (apart from wax and oil).
All the best.
Hello,
Please help me with the following dilemma: I recently bought a pine garden shed; it does not seem to have been coated with any protective coating. As we are going to put it in the garden in full sun, what treatment should be applied to the wood? We want to preserve as much as possible the natural appearance and colour of the wood, without staining it. Is a treatment to prevent the wood from turning blue compulsory?
Good evening,
I recommend waxed impregnant or wax. For the sake of durability, it should have some colour. Pigments are those that are resistant to UV radiation. Buy pine or fir (any resin) coloured varnish. The colour is similar to wood, has transparency, but is also protected. Against blue stain (blue mould - specific to wood) there are special insect-fungicide substances. Such substances used to be added to impregnants or lacquers. Due to new EC requirements they are now sold separately. Both the lacquers and waxes, as well as the insect-fungicide solutions can be found in DIY stores or in profile ones.
A natural wood treatment solution found here.
All the best.
Hello,
Thank you very much. However, if I use e.g. Kreidezeit products, is it appropriate to give first with priming oil and then with lazura, or do I just use lazura?
A beautiful day,
Lucian Berar
Hello,
As far as I know it is enough to apply the varnish, but it is best to talk to Naturalpaint (naturalpaint.ro) who distribute these products. In their website there are also technical data sheets of the products (including lazura), where you can find technical indications.
All the best.
Hello,
Based on your experience, please help me with 3 answers to the following questions:
1. what product should I use to protect a 100 year old oak table top that I don't want to take away from its beauty?
2. what similar product exists on the Romanian market for: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-260165-Touch-Polyurethane-Quart/dp/B00714ZOOA. I would like to finish with such a product the furniture painted with Annie Sloan chalk paint, used in bathrooms (wet).
3. what is the equivalent product on the Romanian market for Mineral Spirits?
Thank you so much for your time and for existing!
All the best,
Hello,
1. I recommend oil: Danish oil, tung oil or natural oils (e.g. Kreidezeit from Naturalpaint).
2. Appears to be a water soluble acrylic polyurethane. I can't tell from the link. It would still be good to use a varnish also from Annie Sloan. The paints are chalky, special and should have a good adhesion to what you put on top. As far as I know they have a pretty tough varnish too. You'd need a hard water-based varnish anyway. You can also use hard floor oils.
3. Mineral Spirit is a solvent obtained by distillation of petroleum. In the old days, it was called Petrosin and was also used to wash floors. I don't know if it still exists under that name. It is also found as turpentine or synthetic thinner for oil-based paints.
All the best.
Hello,
I made a house out of pine wood, I did not close it inside to dry, but I did not give some bark on the wood.After 3 months I wanted to do a treatment to the wood but I was surprised to hear under the bark decay.
I peeled off the existing husks, cleaned the decay that had appeared and gave it a first coat of linseed oil.
I would like your advice on how I can protect the wood better and longer lasting because I am going to seal it with a plasterboard.
Thank you.
Hello. You should see if there are any larvae left in the wood, as they are very hardy and live for years in the wood. You can find more information about the quarry here. It's best to treat it before covering it. In the article you will also find something about treatments. You can also find solutions for sale on the net, both for prevention and for wood attacked by decay.
All the best.
Thank you very much! All the best!
Hello, please help me with some advice: I have built a loft out of fir wood, bought commercially and I would like to paint it white. What do you advise?
Hello,
To make the wood smooth and pleasant to the touch, you should sand after applying the first coat. If you use a primer, it will adhere better to the wood, cover the wood better and sand more easily. After sanding you can apply a coat of paint. But there are also products (generally DIY ones) that can be applied layer upon layer without any problems and you can also sand between layers. When deciding on a paint always read the recommendations and how to work. Usually, if it needs a primer beforehand, this is listed on the label.
Good luck!
Hello!I would like to ask what to start with.I have a wooden fence (dry) unpainted and I don't know what to give it,I don't want to end up with a cherry color,reddish.Thank you.What should I do?
Hello,
You can apply waxed impregnant in cherry colour (available in DIY stores) or bait (impregnant) for outdoor use cherry after which oil for exterior. In my opinion they are the best choices for a fence. The varnish option is more risky. The varnish might crack due to wood movement and splinter. To restore it you have to clean it completely. Oil or wax, even if they are "washed" by the rain, to restore the finish is enough to apply another coat. Normal stains do not resist outside.
All the best!
Hello,
1.What should I use to protect the steps of an oak staircase so that the colour (appearance) remains as close as possible to the natural one? (what work steps are required?)
2. What can I use to protect the walls of a barn (pine frame) and keep it looking as close as possible to its natural appearance. Some of the planks are blackened: can the blackness be removed?
Thank you,
Hello,
1. A varnish that is quite hard and does not change the colour of the wood is solvent-based acrylic varnish. It is catalyzed 20-25%. A harder lake is the polyurethane, with catalyst 100%but the colour of the wood will turn a little yellow. The steps would be: white sanding, priming (one coat of primer is sufficient), sanding between coats to remove raised grain and lacquering. I recommend not to apply thick coats and not to use gloss varnish, as it is much easier to maintain and any scratches are less visible.
2. The blackness on the shingles is mould. You can remove it with sodium hypochlorite (bleach). Other solutions are here. Protection can be done with linseed oil (drying quicker) or with waxed water-thinnable impregnant. You can also use outdoor varnishbut you will lose the natural look. Oil and wax protection is less durable over time and needs to be refreshed from time to time (1-2 years, depending on how "rain washed" the barn is).
All the best!
Good evening. We have 40 year old oak dining room chairs and my question is what to treat the wood with? Thank you
Hello.
I would need more details. How exactly to treat it? Do you want to restore the furniture, repaint it or just clean it?
For restoration it is best to call a specialist.
If you want to relactify it you can do it with water-based varnish that you can find in DIY stores. It is compatible with most varnishes. Beforehand, you should sand the chairs lightly (with fine abrasive sponges, also from DIY stores) to remove dirt accumulated over time and wax from cleaning products. Then wipe off the resulting dust with a clean cloth and apply varnish. 2-3 coats will be needed.
If you want to clean it, wash it with warm water and mild detergent (soap), wipe it immediately with a dry cotton cloth, let it rinse and apply, also with a cloth, a thin layer of transparent furniture wax. Leave for 3-4 hours (or overnight) and polish lightly with a soft cotton cloth or polishing pad.
If none of the options is what you want, please give me more details.
All the best!
Hello,
how do you recommend to treat the wood of some double glazed windows installed 10 years ago, which are exposed to sun, temperatures (-25C to +50C), wind, snow, etc)? They had a film that peeled off, with elastic and semi-transparent properties. If you can point me to some professional products, possibly the brand or place of purchase, I don't mind.
thank you in advance.
Good evening,
The best solutions now used for outdoor wood are outdoor water-based varnishes. All companies selling wood varnishes and paints have such products. Finishes made with these varnishes are guaranteed for 5 to 10 years, of course the ones that last longer are more expensive. The problem with this resistance is that after the recommended time, almost invisible cracks begin to appear, which if not "treated" will expand and the varnish will peel. In the case of these finishes, window maintenance is recommended every 3-4 years. That is, the windows are wiped with a wet rag to remove dirt, lightly sanded so that the varnish has a better adhesion and a coat of varnish is applied with a brush from the one initially used. Another way to prolong the life of the finish is to wipe the window frame with a linseed oil (or other maintenance oil) rag once every 2 years before the cold season. Rain, snow, wind will "eat" away the oil layer leaving the lake intact.
All the best!
Hello,
how do you recommend to treat the wood of some double glazed windows installed 10 years ago, which are exposed to sun, temperatures (-25C to +50C), wind, snow, etc)? They had a film that peeled off, with elastic and semi-transparent properties. If you can point me to some professional products, possibly the brand or place of purchase, I don't mind.
thank you in advance.
Thank you for your advice. I came across a maintenance solution similar to your description, consisting of 2 substances, one cleaning, the other maintenance-hydrophobic (Window Maintenance Set - Sikkens). Analyzing more closely the damaged wood, I found that it is more degraded where the sun has beaten more (not mosquito nets). The wood, spruce, protected from the mosquito nets (rollers) is very little damaged, although the mosquito nets were up all the time in the cold season (from October to April). So contrary to my expectations, it was not the cold and snow that damaged them, but the sun and warmth. In this case I have to think about protecting them in spring-summer.
If it was damaged more by the sun it means that the lake did not have very good UV resistance. It is better to apply semi-transparent exterior varnishes, they have much higher resistance. If you got the maintenance kit from Sikkens, you can also get the varnish from them, they have good products. Lacquers must contain UV absorbers. It's like skin protection creams. The sun is very aggressive and it would help a lot if you had awnings.
All the best!
Hello,
I have an exterior fence, made of planks, in the Berceni area.
Should I give it with insect primer and then lacquer or are there other solutions?
Thank you very much
Good evening,
I guess there's no point in treating the insect fence. It is difficult and expensive. In my opinion you apply a the lard in the desired colour, water-thinnable wax impregnant or linseed oil. Now the biocide regime (substances that attack insects) is quite strict and you don't find many laxes that include these substances, as it was until a few years ago.
All the best!
Hello! I have purchased a dark, brown, bath impregnated cabinet (I believe it is called "venghe""African teak" color) and want to open up the color, closer to the rest of the furniture which is "golden oak". How can I do this? Thank you.
Good evening.
It was simpler the other way around. 🙂 You should remove all the finish and refinish. I mean apply paint stripper, let it work for a while and then scrape the lacquer off with a scraper. Afterwards wipe the surface with a cloth with thinner to remove the stain. It will be difficult to achieve an even stain. If you want to remove all of it, sand until you get to the wood. Then apply the desired colour, let it dry and apply the varnish. It is quite laborious.
I don't know what your opinion is about finishes like distress or shabby chic. If you like them I would advise you to apply a coat of paint in a light colour (creamy white, light grey, etc). Let it dry and then sand the edges and where you consider. Apply with a brush without wanting a perfect application. This way you will get an interesting light-coloured wardrobe with much less effort.
Good luck!
Hello, I have a question:)
I have a table that I painted with Borma Wachs acrylic chalk effect paint (shabby chic style). This table will be in the bathroom as a stand for the washbasin. What kind of varnish can I use, as there will be enough moisture and water on it?
I was recommended a yacht varnish but it is alkyd...can I use an oil based varnish if I have acrylic paint as a base?
Thanks a lot for your help:)
Hello,
If the table will be in the bathroom, it is mandatory to protect it. You can use transparent wax against humidity. If you want to have a mechanical resistance then you must apply a varnish with a higher hardness (polyurethane, acrylic with hardening). It is best to get from Borma Wachs the varnish recommended by them for application over acrylic paint. That way you will be sure of both adhesion and resistance in high humidity environments.
All the best!
Hello. I want to change the rustic color of all the interior fir wood doors at our house, which have a light color, but I need a special paint to go over the existing Nitrocellulose varnish, and make them a dark walnut brown shade. Is there a special paint for this? It is very expensive and expensive to sand the doors to remove the existing varnish and apply a new one afterwards - that is why I am looking for a varnish that will work over a Nitrocellulose varnish... is there anything? thank you very much.
Good evening.
Use nitrocellulose paints. They are also available in specialist shops (nitroemail). Or you can order the colour from a finishing materials distributor. They usually have colour machines and you can find a colour that suits you. You have to ask them to make the colour in nitrocellulose base. Being a darker colour there will be no problems. With lighter colours there may be problems because of the yellowish colour of the nitrocellulose varnish.
All the best!
Hi I have to make a wooden shelf in a basement (cellar) with what do you recommend me to apply bait or varnish, does the wood breathe if I apply varnish? can the varnish peel? Thank you in advance
Hello,
The wood stain only stains the wood not protects it. It is the varnish that makes the film and protects. If you want it to be resistant to mechanical action (knocks, scratches) then use varnish. There will be no problem with the wood if it is well dried. This is the way to finish any furniture. If you don't have such resistance requirements I would opt for oil or wax finishing. You can use wood wax or for furniture or linseed oil. The wood is protected against moisture and even if there are dimensional variations due to moisture the finish is not damaged.
All the best!
Hello! I notice that you know this field very well so please help me with an answer if you can. I have an online shop where I sell kendama type toys, probably you have heard of them and because the models I order end up being sold by other retailers, having no control over the design, I want to paint them in the country. The big problem is that I don't know what type of paint to use. In addition to the coloured paint that comes in several varieties, I also need the last layer of "sticky" or "rubber" paint that makes the kendama ball non-slippery. The question is: do you have any idea under what name we find these two types of paint and where we can find it? Thank you!
Good evening.
You need a very elastic and resistant paint with very good adhesion. I think the best would be the chlorine-rubber type paint, but I don't know if it is still manufactured. At EC level there are problems with products like u chlorine in the composition. Waterborne paints, adiva acrylic dispersions in water butter also elastic. Care must be taken with adhesion. If not sanded well beforehand to create a good adhesion, the paint layer will peel off under hard blows, then flake off like sunburnt skin. Another idea: matt paints are less slippery than glossy paints.
All the best!
For a house in the mountains that has the top floor made of birch on the outside I would like to refurbish the wood that I think is 70 years old. Can I apply an exterior paint directly on the surface of the wood or do I need other steps and materials? Some of the birches have cracks. Approximately 100 square meters. I would greatly appreciate a suggestion.
Good evening. It is good to check and sand the wood beforehand (with 150-180 grit paper or medium abrasive sponges). Afterwards you can apply the paint. The paint must be resistant to the outside. Cracks can be sealed with wood putty, but I would leave them that way because they have more charm. If they have held up so far, it doesn't affect the durability.
All the best!
Thank you very much for your reply and promptness.
Good riddance!
Good evening, in 2 months I will be a happy father of a baby boy.
Preparations for the baby are in full swing, now I'm at the baby bedding part.
I own a wooden bed, it needs to be rebuilt.
I sanded with sanding tape 80 after 150 came out very well, probably had water based varnish.
Now I want to paint it matt white. I bought Oskar Aqua Matt water based paint, contemporary white.
That is correct:
1 coat water-based wood primer from Oskar
2-2 hands Aqua Matt paint.
After I apply the first coat of primer, do I have to sand?
Or between the two coats of paint?
Which paintbrush do you recommend for paint application? Thank you.
Good evening.
Congratulations and make the most of your new position.
Returning to the bed: sanding should be done after applying and drying the primer. It is much easier compared to sanding the paint and helps to get a nice smooth paint coat. The products being water based will lift the wood grain so that after applying the primer the surface will not be as smooth as before. Sand with 280 or 320 grit sandpaper or fine sanding sponges. Buy a good brush to avoid leaving hair and to be thick enough to allow a good application of the paint. You can also use plastic brushes, but of good quality. If the model allows, you can also use a brush. There are some very good small ones for such applications.
Good luck!
Hello, thanks for the information, I will come back with details after I finish the project!
Hello,
Thanks for the useful articles and recommendations.
I also need some advice. I want to finish a room in my country house. The walls of the room are entirely covered with wooden panelling, wooden floor, exposed beams. All spruce and planed only.
Is it ok if I sand the walls of the panelling well first, apply bait and primer? Do you think it should be varnished on top? I don't think so, considering that it is the wall.
On the floor instead after the bait and primer I would also apply a floor varnish.
Would that be okay?
Thank you very much,
Cristian
Hello.
I always recommend finishing with varnish because it is specially made to have good surface properties: resistance to scratches, patches, dents, etc. The primer is made to adhere well to the surface, to have a larger body to "load" well and to sand easily. You can also leave it primed, but if you want to clean it over a period of time by washing it, it may not clean very well.
As for the floor, you are right. It is good to finish with a parquet varnish.
All the best!
Thank you so much ☺. I have one more question: On the walls of the house, on the outside, even if it's under the eaves, do I get to put the varnish?
You can use the lard. Be careful when you buy it that it is specified for outdoors. In general, the varnish in DIY stores is a mixture of varnish and outdoor bait and needs no further protection. Mention this on the label as well.
Good luck!
Thanks again. Last question, I promise: Before varnishing, does the primer need to be sanded? I did a test and sanding scratches the primer and the dip.
Sanding is important for adhesion and to smooth the surface. Use a finer sandpaper (280 or 320) or fine sanding sponges. If you apply with a brush, the layer deposited is thin and you can easily reach the bait. Apply 2 coats of primer, 2-4 hours apart, without sanding in between. Sand the day after the coats have dried completely and apply the varnish on the same day as you sand.
Thank you very much for your advice
Hello
We want to paint the walls inside a wooden cabin.They have not been painted or varnished since the construction of the cabin (9 years),now being very dry.We have been looking and reading on the net but all the comments and opinions are confusing and many,which confused us:)
What do you recommend we use to paint these walls? We would like to offer protection as well as colour tones to the walls.
Thank you in advance.
Hello.
I understand the walls are wood. It is important to know what they were painted with before. You say they haven't been painted for 9 years. If they look dried out it may have been oil. If so, simply apply 1-2 more coats of linseed oil, with a day's break between coats and wiping off the excess to avoid a sticky surface. The oil can also be applied over the bait, after drying, if you want to stain the wood. A simple method is to use coloured oil. Commercially available coloured oil-based lacquers.
If varnish had been applied 9 years ago I find it hard to believe that the film would have totally disappeared in that time leaving the dry wood showing. To give you some advice it would help me to know how the wood was protected 9 years ago.
All the best!
Before they were only laced, that is 9 years ago. Since then we have not done anything to them.
Now the wood is very dry and has a yellowish colour.
There was nothing left on them
I was thinking of using kober's 2 in 1 2-layer vinegar
what do you think?
Hi,
I need your help. I really want the eaves and the rafters to be light in colour (white) but I wouldn't opt for painting an oil. If I give it a dark primer and then a 3 in 1 white semi-transparent varnish, will it come out nice or will my husband hit me with it? I really want white, but I also want the wood grain to be preserved,
It would help me if you didn't use so many technical/chemical terms, so that it would be easy for me to identify in the commercial offer of the stores the kind of products you are referring to 🙂 Thanks!
Hello. There is a water-based white lye you can use. If you can't find it, you can use water-based white exterior paint that you can dilute with water so that the wood shows through. Don't put varnish on top (whether oil or water based) because the varnish turns yellow and you get a cream instead of white.
If you don't want the grain to show, just that there is wood underneath the paint, then you can use 3-in-1 varnish without priming underneath. Two coats of varnish are sufficient.
All the best!
Hello. I have a fence, balconies and terrace made of larch wood. Installed 1 year ago, varnished (walnut colour). After the winter, from the balcony handrail (where the snow stayed), especially where there were knots, the bait jumped.
How do I proceed to protect the wood? From what I have read in the article, the dip does not really protect (I repeat, I used a varnish dip). Thank you.
Hello.
I suspect you used lazura (for the outside). It is a mixture of varnish and bait. You can use the same material to apply to the areas where the colour has skipped. Lightly sand the area beforehand so that the varnish has adhesion. It can be applied locally, you don't have to stain everything. You need a little attention so that the repair is not very visible.
In the knots there is resin that has a tendency to come to the surface and push into the lake above. This is why in those areas the film-forming products (varnish, lacquer, primer) are more easily detached. In the knot there are also tannins that can even discolour the top coat.
All the best!
good evening .I would like to paint a shed in osb mounted new what paint should I use and the name you know is better and tell me if I still grunduiesc [I would not want more ].vam ultumesc
Hello,
You can use alkyd (oil-based) paints. They are very resistant on the outside and coat well. They also work without primer. You can find the paints in specialist or DIY stores. It's a paint you won't be surprised with. The difference is how well and fast it covers. That means pigment content. The more expensive the paint, the higher the pigment content.
All the best.
Hello!
I want to make some so-called raised beds in the garden. In these will be planted vegetables for consumption.
They will be built of wood, 10 x 10 beams at the corners, and 5 x 25 side timbers.
From an environmental and food safety point of view I would be tempted not to treat them in any way, but the climate in Romania and the pine timber do not make a good home for long as far as I know. So what do you recommend me, is there something that I can use to protect these wooden structures and not have to redo them every 2 years, but at the same time to eat the vegetables produced inside them without thinking about contamination with plastic compounds, metals, etc...
Thank you,
Dan
Hello.
For peace of mind I recommend natural oils. Linseed oil is an easier and cheaper option. Unfortunately, oil finishes need to be refreshed, sometimes every 1 year, because rain washes it away over time.
You can also use oil-based exterior paints. They are more resistant over time. But you should use environmentally friendly ones because there are also versions that contain heavy metals.
There are also water-based products for outdoors, but they don't mean environmentally friendly. This must be specified on the label.
I would choose natural linseed oil, even if I would have to refresh the finish from time to time.
All the best!
hello. i have two pine wood doors, for the interior, made by a carpenter. they are painted, finished and i would like to paint them - white. do i have to treat the wood with something beforehand or just apply the white paint? what paint do you recommend? I don't know what to choose.
Hello.
If they are for indoors, it would be better to use a primer first. It is usually recommended in the instructions on the paint label what kind of primer to use. Apply the primer, sand after drying, if it is not well covered apply a second coat and sand again after drying. Finally apply the white paint. It is good to sand between coats, especially if the paint is water based, to get smooth to the touch. Otherwise you risk scratching yourself with them.
If they are for outdoor use, it is best to apply a protective product (insect repellent) beforehand, after which you can apply the paint.
If you use water-based paint, sanding must be done between coats. With solvent-based paints the fibre lifts much less. You can use alkyd (oil-based) paints both inside and outside. They are hard-wearing paints.
All the best!
Thank you from the bottom of my heart! You saved me!
With pleasure! 🙂
Good evening!Mrs Mihaela I have a question to you.I bought a pine swing and the wood is not dry.Should I leave it in the sun?How long?What are the steps I have to follow to protect it,I mean what to give it with?(the order interests me).It will be kept in the sun,rain,snow and must be protected.Thank you very much.
Good evening.
Should not be left in the sun. Wood should never be dried in the sun because it accelerates water loss, creates tension and cracks. Because it is still green I would protect it with oil. Linseed oil is resistant to the outside, it protects very well against humidity and what is very important, it allows the wood to make the natural exchange of humidity with the environment. That way you don't risk the finish cracking. Over time, due to weathering the oil wears off and needs to be re-sprayed. Until then the wood stabilises and you can finish it as you wish. Drying may take 1-2 years. It depends on how long it has been cut and in what period (the water content inside depends on when it was cut).
All the best!
So I'm going to give it with linseed oil, but then I can give it directly with varnish?Or before the varnish I have to give it with something else?Is the "yacht" varnish good to give on the swing?
With varnish you give it after at least 1 year. Before varnishing, it would be better to give it with an exterior impregnator or to use a 2 in 1 or 3 in 1 varnish, without varnish.
Yacht varnish is moisture resistant but harder than exterior varnishes and cracks can occur if the wood moves with the variation in humidity. It is best to use an outdoor varnish.
All the best!
Thank you very much for your guidance Mrs Mihaela!Have a nice evening.
Good evening,
I have searched, I have read, but I am not clear and so I come to you with a request for guidance.
I have a piece of acacia trunk (taken from the wood shed) of about 120 centimetres that I want to keep in the house as a decorative object.
I would like to keep the bark on this piece of acacia as well, so I can't do the protection with bait/grund/lacquer or lacquer (if I understand what I read correctly).
Can you please guide me on the solutions/materials I should use to protect this piece of wood against pests and other factors that may affect the wood over time?
Thank you very much for your time!
Hello.
You can try to protect the wood with insect-fungicide solutions available in specialist shops or online. You can apply the solution to the entire surface with a brush (and over the bark) or by spraying. The problem is that if there are pests between the bark and the trunk and the wood is freshly cut (the bark is tightly attached to the trunk) the solution will reach them more slowly or not at all. The good thing is that acacia wood is very tannic and if there are pests, they will only superficially attack the wood. A humid and warm environment favours pests. However, if it doesn't crack, the locust will last well over time (it is a hardwood for houses). Tannins protect it.
Find more information in the link below.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2016/11/02/salcamul-cel-puternic-rezistent-si-frumos/
Hello! I would like to refurbish an old, carved piece of furniture, coated with a semi-gloss varnish.
Discoloured in some areas. Can I use a coloured lacquer? I have received conflicting answers in shops.
Thank you!
Hello.
Lazura is a coloured varnish for outdoors. In principle, if it's water-based, you can use it, but I don't think it's the best solution.
If the furniture has discoloured it is possible that the damage has reached the wood. It is preferable to try to restore those areas to the same colour using a bait (if the varnish is completely removed) or stain varnish. After this local repair varnish all the furniture with a clear varnish (water-based, or nitrocellulose).
Before you start, the furniture must be cleaned of dirt accumulated over time. Simply wash with water and detergent, then wipe thoroughly with a cloth. The varnish is applied after total cleaning. To increase adhesion, the surface of the furniture is lightly sanded with a fine abrasive sponge.
If the furniture has been waxed, the wax layer must first be removed, because nothing has adhesion on the wax.
Good luck!
Thank you!
Hello! I have built a fence out of dry hedged and hedged, loosened. I would like you to tell me how I can protect it, with what and what are the steps. The wood is on the outside. Thank you.
Hello!
I would use linseed oil or water-dilutable wax for the exterior (wax impregnant). They are products that get into the wood and protect very well against damp, the enemy of wood used outdoors. In addition, these products do not film. Varnishes have a longer resistance period, but there is a risk of cracking due to the variation of humidity in the air which leads to dimensional variations of the wood. Water from precipitation gets into the cracks and flakes the film. In order to restore the finish, the lacquer layer must be completely removed by sanding and the lacquer reapplied.
Oil or wax have a shorter guarantee period than varnish because, over time, precipitation "washes" them away. Repainting, however, is very simple, you simply add another coat of oil or wax, without any other operations. You will notice when you have to re-grind because the water no longer runs off the wood and starts to be absorbed.
Application is simple, with a brush, 2-3 coats, with drying time of one day between them. At the end, if there is excess unabsorbed oil, it must be wiped off because it becomes sticky.
Good luck!
Good evening,
I have a request, maybe you can help me with a problem. I have a mahogany wood floor that has scratched in places. What do you advise me to use to cover these scratches.
Thank you!
Hello!
The easiest is with colourless wax. There are companies that have hard floor wax. If the scratches are large and very visible, sand them gently with a fine abrasive sponge before applying wax.
If the colour has been removed (i.e. it is mahogany painted wood), before applying the wax, you must restore the colour. In the shops there are pencils or touch-up waxes. After that you apply the wax.
All the best!
Thank you very much!
A blessed day!
Hello. I recently discovered your page and I liked the patience with which you respond to each situation. As far as I am concerned, I have two problems: I recently had a garden filigree (mushroom) built of oak with a pine slat ceiling.
1. What do I need to treat the wood with to preserve its natural colour and protect it from damage and insects?
2. Could I treat the fir wood on the ceiling with something to bring it to the oak shade?
Please answer me punctually, with the necessary steps. If you have any suggestions of brands, names of paints, I would be very grateful. Thank you very much for your patience.
Hello.
Thanks for your appreciation.
1. For outdoor use, totally transparent products should not be used because they are not resistant to UV radiation, which also damages the varnish and wood over time. I recommend to use water-thinnable waxed varnish for outdoor use or oil-based outdoor varnish. Both contain a small amount of pigment to make them fire resistant, being semi-transparent (you can see the wood, it is not totally covered).
Application is not difficult. Apply the varnish, let it dry and apply the next coat. With a brush 2-3 coats should be applied. For a fine surface the wood should be sanded before the first coat with 150 or 180 grit sandpaper or medium abrasive sponges. Also, after drying the first layer of sandpaper, smooth it lightly with the back of the sandpaper. This smoothing is not mandatory, but it makes the surface smoother, more pleasant to the touch.
2. Use oak-coloured varnish. You will reach the colour, but the effect will be different because the 2 essences are very different. Oak has pores and a hard texture, while resinous wood is softer, has many knots and no pores.
Good luck!
Thank you for your prompt response. I have called some distributors but they have me totally confused. If you could suggest some product names that you think would be optimal for the solutions given, both for version 1 and 2, it would be a great help.
Please forgive me for insisting but I'm afraid the wood will deteriorate. Thank you.
I don't know the exact names of the products of this company. You need to look for outdoor, water-based or oil-based lacquers. In DIY stores you can find such products (Kober, Sadolin, Savana). You can also try wood product distributors. They usually sell professional products for workshops and factories, but the outdoor lacquers can be used without problems. There are many brands on the market you can trust (ICA, Renner, Sayerlack, Sirca).
Good luck!
Hello. I would like your advice on how to protect an untreated sheesham table on a covered terrace. What is the best protective treatment considering that the table is placed outside in the sun? In the shops there are many solutions: linseed oil, wax, varnish, and because of this I am unhottled, confused. In which of the 4 variants is primer applied.
Thank you
Good evening.
In my opinion, oil would work best. Indian rosewood is a very beautiful wood and oil would make it stand out. But you have to use lightly pigmented oil (oil based exterior varnish) to be resistant to UV radiation and not only to humidity. The mechanical resistance is not very high with oil, but the wood is hard enough. Over oil you can give a layer of wax for a longer lasting finish.
Varnish can also be applied. In this case, 1-2 coats of varnish should be applied initially, followed by a coat of varnish. If it sits in the sun use outdoor varnish.
All the best!
Good evening! I have applied a coat of lacquer to an interior door constructed of wood frame and pallets. It's the type of pantry door on the block. Because of its structure, the lacquer lets the difference in materials show through. Can I apply paint over this door leaf? Before applying the lacquer, we removed the old paint layers with the abrasive disc flex. Thank you!
Good evening!
You can apply paint. If you have used oil-based varnish, apply over the oil-based paint. For solvent-based or water-based use water-based paint. The only exception is waxed varnish. Nothing else can be applied over it.
Before applying the coat of paint, wash the varnish with water and detergent if it has been applied for a long time, to remove the accumulated dirt. Lightly sand with an abrasive sponge for better adhesion.
All the best!
Hello! I also have a terrace clad with fir timber pulled to the hearse, which I would like to paint in a dark color, please advise me with what I could give it for maintenance not to deteriorate being outside and what products should be used wanting a dark color.Thank you, I await your answer.
Good evening!
Use oil-based or water-based outdoor polish. I lean towards oil, but water-based ones are good too, especially if they have wax content. Such lacquers can be found commercially in DIY stores. Buy 2 in 1 or 3 in 1. They are ready coloured. If you want dark colour you can buy dark walnut, rustic walnut, wenge, wagons.
Check that the laces are for the outside. The indoor ones do not have the UV-resistant dye.
All the best!
Good evening my husband and I are young entrepreneurs and we have started to refurbish old furniture to paint them white from brown for example and other restoration work but in relation to the tables what type of paint do you recommend me to use or what process should I follow so that the table tops are smooth and not scratchy considering that we do not sand the old paint unless it is very old and swollen?
Thank you in advance!
Good evening.
Even if you don't remove it completely, the old paint needs a little sanding. Sanding is very important to get a smooth surface. It is done with sandpaper with a minimum grain size of 280 or fine abrasive sponges.
The varnishes used are also important. For very smooth surfaces and very good resistance to high temperatures or alcohol, the best is polyurethane varnish.
A very pleasant cough is also obtained by begging. Apply a layer of wax and then polish the wax with a fine cotton cloth or using a paddle wheel and rotary sander.
All the best!
Hello
We have a house under construction with a terrace under the same roof. It has 6 large pine poles partially carved with national motifs. In October 2017 when the structure and roof were being erected we gave them 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of solvent based colourless varnish (Sadolin). It has taken on an ochre colour that we are not too thrilled with. We prefer a lighter shade (the natural colour of pine wood).
We are now nearing the end of the construction and have made the garland and railings of the terrace out of oak.
We don't like what comes out. We can't get them all the same colour even if we sand the poles back to wood. We want to keep the wood grain visible.
we have 2 variants:
1. leave the oak railings and garland.
2. to rebuild the garland and railings in fir (spruce)
The thing is that we want them to be as uniform in colour as possible and to be well protected from UV, weather, etc.
What do you advise us to do?
With thanks
Hello!
If you want uniformity in the natural colour of the wood, you won't get it by using two such different wood essences. The wood used is very different in design, colour and structure and this is immediately apparent.
On the other hand, it is difficult to keep softwoods (fir, spruce) in their natural colour because they naturally darken and the process is accentuated and accelerated by solar radiation.
And there is another problem. Perfectly transparent products do not protect wood from UV radiation. To protect it you have to use products that contain a certain amount of pigment. This is 2-5%, so that it is still transparent, but not totally colourless. All outdoor products contain a small amount of pigment. As softwood has a very light colour any addition of colour will show through and change its natural shade.
I would use for finishing a oil-based varnish in pine colour or honey. They are light colours that don't change the natural colour very much. The oil will be absorbed inside and protect the wood against moisture and the pigment in the varnish will protect against UV radiation. The oil will give a more rustic look to the deck because it won't film like varnish does.
All the best!
Thank you very much for your advice and promptness.
With kind regards
We are in a DIY store and they have water based and solvent based paints, not oil based as you recommend. What should I do?
If the solvent-based ones are alkyd you can buy them. They are very similar to natural oil. Try specialised wood shops. There you are more likely to find it.
Rog ajutoooor! I painted the floor with a Danie universal quick drying paint and instead of getting a light cream, it came out a pinkish beige. It looks like cartoon piglets. What could I put over it to make it light beige?
Good evening.
If it is paint and completely covers the wood, then you will need to apply the cream colour you want over it. When you buy the paint mix it very well and then apply it to a small piece of wood and let it dry. That way you can see if it is the colour you want. To get full coverage you will need to do 2 coats.
If it is a bath that you are going to apply varnish over, try to wipe over it with a rag or sponge with thinner (if the bath was solvent-based). It may have been too concentrated. If you don't succeed you will have to sand and try with a thinner or a different colour of the desired paint.
All the best!
Good evening, what should the reed (reed mat) be treated with to make it more resistant to the vagaries of the weather? I would prefer something colourless. Thank you.
Hello,
I want to finish a wooden lamp and I have some concerns. The desired finish is similar to https://redposie.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/IMG_8752.gif
I want to use white bath, blue bath and dark matt varnish.
1.the wood is softwood and from what I have read there is a risk of uneven staining, and it is recommended to prime it first. if I prime it, and then come back with a filler, it will not stick to the wood and lose its design. right?
2. i can't really find any colour bath. can i get a transparent one and mix it with pigment? or maybe you know a good source?
Thank you.
Dear Mihaela can you answer me I have old wooden doors of apartment painted the color of rosewood can I without sandpaper or paint remover to color it for example natural oak color and what paint do you recommend me water-based or 1800Mulțumesc waiting for answer by email
I would like you to tell me what to use for the doors I have dark color like that of rosewood with what I can open it with the bath to make it the color of oak or natural wood what to use?
Good evening!
If the finish is transparent you cannot open the colour without removing the existing coating. You must remove the varnish layer by stripping and then sand to remove the pale white. Once you get to the wood you can resume the finish in a lighter colour.
If the finish is opaque (i.e. you can't see the wood grain) it is no problem to change the colour of the finish. Choose the desired colour and apply it over the existing finish. You will have to wash the door with water and detergent beforehand to remove the dirt deposited over time. Wipe well and leave to vibrate. Afterwards sand the entire surface gently with a fine abrasive sponge to increase adhesion to the substrate. To make sure the coats are compatible use a water-based paint. Apply at least 2 coats to cover the initial colour well.
Good luck!
Good evening!
I have a question that I've been looking for an answer to and I couldn't find anything on the internet...
By chance (almost by accident) I also entered your website and I hope you can enlighten me:
I bought a large can of Kober Ecolasure Extra water-based wood preservative last year to maintain the exterior woodwork. I didn't use it then, but I kept it in the garage, perfectly sealed....
Today, when I opened it, I found that it had a "wobbly" look, as if a huge dye-soaked sponge had been stuffed into the box. I tried to mix it, but it's like a semi-compacted mass, like a mixture of sawdust and bait....
Is there anything else that can be done with it? (I'm admittedly a layman)
I should mention that it is still under warranty, it expires in 2 years.
Thank you in advance for your answer!
Good evening!
It may have frozen over the winter. Water-based products should not be stored at temperatures below 5 degrees Celsius. Another cause may be very high heat that has polymerised the product. Check the storage conditions on the label, they should be mentioned.
In the condition you say the product is in now it can no longer be used. It is already transformed (polymerised) into the final product. No matter how much you mix and dilute it, it does not turn into lazura.
I'm sorry I can give you better news.
All the best!
Thank you for your prompt and complete response!
Honestly, I agree with you: in the garage the product has had extreme conditions (both cold and heat), which probably led to the compromise of the content...
Anyway, you know what they say, "another day another lesson learned!"
Next time I will STI to read carefully the conditions on the label 🙂
I wish you all the best!
LS
Hello,
I want to finish a wooden lamp and I have some concerns. The desired finish is similar to https://redposie.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/IMG_8752.gif
I want to use white bath, blue bath and dark matt varnish.
1.the wood is softwood and from what I have read there is a risk of uneven staining, and it is recommended to prime it first. if I prime it, and then come back with a filler, it will not stick to the wood and lose its design. right?
2. i can't really find any colour bath. can i get a transparent one and mix it with pigment? or maybe you know a good source?
Thank you.
Hello.
The patina (the blue layer) is used to achieve this effect.
1. If the wood is soft there is indeed a possibility of staining. Primer is a solution, but only applied very thinly. Basically, the primer you apply should be diluted 1:1 with its solvent (water or organic solvent, depending on what kind of primer you use) and applied in small amounts so that it absorbs into the wood without deforming the film. It will work as a barrier and the filler will settle evenly (it will be absorbed evenly).
2. As I said, the effect is achieved with the oxidized copper patina (it is a slightly bluish green). You can find such products at wood product stores, those that also sell varnishes and paints. They generally sell professional products, those made especially for factories, and they also have such patinas.
If you apply a blue bait over the white bait the effect will be different. You can apply white bait, over it a layer of clear primer for protection, and over this primer a thin layer of blue paint. After drying, sand partially to remove the blue colour only in some places where the white will appear. The method is called distressed and you have a link below where it is described in detail. If you don't apply primer the paint takes much harder.
With bait and patina you will get the effect and the wood will show through.
Good luck!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2016/09/06/distress-metoda-invechire-mobilei/
Hello. What is the best way to protect an outdoor fence made of pine wood frame that has a nut and a stench (in the sense of intervening as seldom as possible to maintain it)? Now the planks are just sanded. It doesn't matter what color or kind of substance it will be given, only as infrequent maintenance as possible ( it's hard to take the shingles off the rafters and repaint them). And if the substance you recommend can be given to the gun ( it goes much faster) or is it mandatory to brush. Thanks.
Hello.
Outdoor varnishes have the highest resistance over time. When it comes to refinishing, however, it is more difficult because the boards have to be sanded and the whole process has to be started from scratch.
There is also the option of oil or wax treatment for the exterior. It lasts less over time (1-3 years, depending on how much rain, how aggressive the sun is, etc), but it is much easier to restore. When the wood gets a drier look, without the silky sheen of the beginning, all you need to do is apply another coat of oil or wax, without any other preparatory work.
You have to decide which seems the simplest option. All of the above substances can also be applied with a spray gun.
All the best!
Thank you very much for your time. Good days!
Hello please help me with some information please. I am now making my interior stairs out of solid wood (ash) and I want the colour to be white but at the same time the shapes of the wood to show through. I don't know if this is possible and what products I should use!
Good evening!
It can. You can apply whitewash, then apply varnish. In this case you will not have a perfect white but a slightly yellowish one because of the shade of the varnish. For the shade to differ very little use acrylic varnish on solvent or water-based varnish.
Another solution is to apply white paint. Apply 2 coats of thinner paint so that the final coat is not thick. Apply a top coat, let it dry and sand to get a nice smooth surface. Then apply another coat. You will cover the grain of the wood, but the design will be visible, especially if there will be flaring (that curved line design).
All the best!
Hello! I also have a wooden gazebo made 7-8 years ago and not treated with anything until now. The wood has deteriorated, it has some stains that turn blue, it has blackened and a couple of posts have cracked. How can I save it? Can you give me some advice please? I was thinking of sanding the posts and beams, then applying a solution like sadolin antikars and finally a varnish, I was thinking of a sadolin product, lanzul or tinova, would it be ok what I'm thinking of or do you advise something else. Thank you in advance and I look forward to your reply.
Hello.
The blue and black stains are mold. After sanding, you should also treat the wood with an insect-fungicide solution. I don't know if Sadolin's antiques solution contains such substances, check if it says so on the label. The products you mention are of good quality, with very good resistance over time. The system you have in mind is good: antiquing and then Tinova. I am a fan of oils because they don't film and give the wood a very natural look. It does resist less and the finish needs to be re-sprayed every 2-3 years, depending on how much rain it has had to "harden". The advantage is that refinishing is much easier compared to a film finish.
If the mould remains after sanding (black and blue stains) it means that it has penetrated deeper into the wood and more attention should be paid. Sodium hypochlorite (cheap laundry bleach) is very effective. Make a 2:1 solution with water, apply to the sanded wood and let it absorb. The black stain should disappear. The solution can also be applied to wood that has just been cleaned of mould, even furniture.
All the best!
Hello. We recently did an attic loft loft on our house, using OSB boards treated fire retardant and fungicide and covered with Sadolin lacquer with color pigment (fir). My problem is that the shellac doesn't cover the OSB enough and the not very aesthetic surface of the boards is very visible. Furthermore, the builder used a light colored glue for the joints between the boards, which spoils the aesthetic appearance of the attic even more, as the shellac cannot cover it evenly and it is very visible (and unfortunately not very even). Is there any solution to evenly cover the OSB boards in this case (varnish with bath I understand it can't, but maybe a water based paint variant)? Alternatively, I was thinking of a wallpaper bonded with a water-based adhesive, but again I don't know how this adhesive will interact with the coating substances used on the boards. I would appreciate your opinion. Thank you.
Hello.
I understand it is an exterior finish, which is why you used lacquer. For a good coating you need a paint. Paints contain a much higher amount of pigment and the coating will be much better. The imperfections of the substrate will fade, but will not disappear. To have a smooth surface it should be grouted. No paint can straighten the surface.
You can use water-based exterior paint, alkyd paint or oil-based paint. If you use water-based paint, try not to dilute it. Extra water gets into the OSB faster. If you have to thin, do not exceed 5%.
Oil-based paint for outdoors you can also find in the shop Market.Market.
A more secure bond of the wallpaper you get with a polyurethane adhesive. Water-based adhesives (such as polyvinyl acetate) must have at least one side that absorbs adhesive. If the OSB is treated with a silicate-based fire retardant solution, which seals the board and does not allow much absorption inside, it will be hard to absorb anything. Polyurethane adhesives however will bond almost anything and are also very moisture resistant.
I hope you found it useful.
All the best!
Thanks so much for the tips, they are much appreciated! Although the builder used slate, the finish is actually on the inside (the attic of a house), which I wish I could use as a small loft (it has windows, and access is relatively easy). I took your suggestions on board and, even though it is inside, I will use one of the exterior paint types mentioned. I'm not really interested in the flatness of the surfaces (which is reasonable), but in the aesthetic appearance of the space and the proposed solutions should help. Thanks again. Have a nice day.
Hello.
What kind of paint could I use to treat the wood outside for a terrace exposed to rain. For a brown shade
Hello!
With water-based paint or varnish or oil-based paint or varnish.
The paint completely covers the wood and you can't see the design when the varnish stains, but the wood is still visible.
Water-based products are more resistant over time. They make a film and for this reason it is possible that cracks may occur due to the natural movement of the wood. Refinishing is more difficult because the old finish has to be removed by sanding or stripping and a new one applied.
Oil-based products protect very well against moisture, they do not film, but the resistance over time is less and depends on how much rain falls directly on the surface (the oil is "washed off" during rain). Repainting is much easier, however, as it is sufficient to apply another coat of paint or varnish.
More information about finishing the exterior of the lamn can be found in the link below.
In the online shop Market.Market you can find both oil-based paint and varnish.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/08/03/12-reguli-simple-pentru-a-avea-constructii-din-lemn-rezistente-la-exterior/
I have a wooden boat (a monkfish), when it was new I gave the hull with hot linseed oil in 5 coats then I painted it with a commercial paint, the part above the waterline stayed well but the immersed part exfoliated and the water washed the oil away over time, where could I find classic linseed oil based paint or what percentage of sikative to put in the oil to make it harden like paint and be elastic. Can turpentine help me with something? Or how can I prepare the oil based paint and primer ? Or maybe you have a recipe for craft (a combination of primer + paint) With respect I.V.
Good evening.
Unfortunately I can't help you. I have no experience with boat products.
From what I've seen others use epoxy resins or epoxy varnishes for finishing.
As for oil, turpentine is a natural oil thinner. It can help as it dilutes it better and allows it to penetrate deep into the wood. Oil can be boiled to make it dry faster. That's why it's also called boiled oil. Now drying is done with siccatives (actually metal catalysts that speed up the reaction between oil and oxygen in the air so that the oil hardens, dries). The percentage of siccative in the oil should not exceed 5-6%.
Classic oil paints are hard to find now and expensive because they use natural products. Those that have similar characteristics to classic paints are alkyd paints. They are also found for marine use. The oils used are mostly synthetic.
All the best!
Hi, I have a concrete staircase, on which I want to apply laminated oak steps, the steps I already have from a DIY store, I contacted several tradesmen but the amounts asked seem astronomical, so I decided to go it alone. Now I don't know the exact steps to make the stairs look shiny and mahogany. Can you help me with the steps I should follow?
Hello.
It is not easy to get a glossy finish, especially if you are a beginner. With a matte one it would be easier. Gloss highlights any flaws and is very sensitive to dust.
First you have to sand the steps. Even if they appear to be sanded, it is best to do the operation before bathing to avoid stains. Sand with 180 or 220 grit sandpaper or medium abrasive sponges. Dust and apply bait. Buy mahogany bait also from DIY stores. If they are not fitted you can buy solvent-based or water-based bait. Solvent-based dries faster and the risk of staining is lower. The smell is the annoying one, but you can do the operation outside.
After the grout has dried apply the first coat of floor varnish. There are both solvent-based and water-based lacquers. It can be applied by brush, trowel or spray gun. After the first coat has dried (drying time is indicated by the manufacturer), sand with 280 or 320 grit sandpaper or fine abrasive sponge to obtain a smooth, pleasantly smooth, non-sticky surface. Sand and apply the next coat. If the surface is fine enough, sanding the second coat is not necessary. In this case, let it set for 30-45 min, then apply the next coat without sanding. If the surface is not sufficiently smooth, let this coat dry and then sand, sand and apply the third coat. Because it is a glossy finish, at least 3 coats must be applied otherwise the finish has no depth.
When buying floor varnish it must be glossy.
You can also find in the shop Market.Market floor varnish, both water-based and solvent-based, and instructions for use.
Good luck!
Thank you for the recommendation, I will choose the matte version, as you said, for the matte version should the same steps be taken?
It's the same way of working. The only difference is that you can reduce the number of layers, but not less than two. However, as the application is done with a brush or a trowel, I recommend applying 3 coats.
Good luck!
Hello, sorry to keep coming back with questions, I have read various articles that give the idea that for finishing the steps are recommended oils, what do you think, what exactly to finish with for a durable resistance, or not to wake up that bends or cracks over time, the steps are laminated oak wood
Good evening.
The oil is used because it protects very well from moisture, lets the wood move naturally with changes in humidity and looks great as a finish. The very high resistance it gives cannot be compared to a special lacquer finish for high traffic floors. An oiled wood does not warp if the wood is well dried and laminated oak is very durable and stable over time.
The use of oil in this case depends on what you want. I would choose the oil because it looks great, it doesn't film and the wood looks very natural. Don't expect it to maintain as easily and have the same scratch resistance as a polyurethane varnish, but it behaves very well. It can be washed off, there are no scratches because there is no film (it only scratches the wood if the aggression is very strong - a nail or something similar), there are no cracks, and if you need to refinish it, just apply another coat of oil.
I hope that was helpful.
All the best!
Good evening, thanks for the reply, in the case of oil what is the application procedure, does it need to be applied several times or sanded, because I will probably more than likely use oil, I don't know what easy or hard to maintain means but if it gives a natural look is all I want, and anyway the traffic in the house is not like that in a shop or hotel.
Good evening!
The oil is applied in excess with a brush or a trowel, leave 30-45 min for the wood to absorb, then the excess is wiped off with a rag. Let it dry until the next day (24 hours) and apply another coat, under the same conditions. Before applying the oil, the wood must be sanded very well to give it a pleasant feel (with medium abrasive sponges or abrasive paper 150 or 180 grit) and then sanded. If after the first coat of oil the wood shows roughness, sand it lightly with a fine abrasive sponge or sandpaper of 280 or 320 grit.
You can apply 2-4 coats.The important thing is that the wood absorbs as much as it needs. Sanding after each coat is not necessary. Wiping off the excess is mandatory because otherwise sticky stains remain.
In the Clever.Market shop you can find floor oil from Kreidezeit. Kreidezeit products have the advantage that they are natural, with no chemical additives or heavy metal based chemicals.
All the best!
Hello,
With what you can highlight the structure of the wood (as in this link: https://www.etsy.com/listing/399952747/wood-wall-art-wood-sculpture-3d-wall-art?ref=shop_home_active_53)?
I would like to use this technique for a similar object but I can't figure out how to blacken the wood structure to make it stand out?
Thank you
Hello.
It is so highlighted because of the different absorption. Those pieces of wood are cut crosswise (perpendicular to the grain), not along the grain. The whole surface is the end grain and the drawing is made by the annual rings, as they look when a tree is cut (partial drawing, in the case of those pieces). Absorption is very high and differs within the same annual ring between early and late wood. Each annual ring will have an area that absorbs a lot and will darken a lot and turn black (early wood) and an area that will absorb less and remain lighter in colour (late wood). You can see the effect very well on softwoods (fir, spruce, pine, larch).
You can achieve the effect by using an ordinary wood stain in the desired colour. What matters here is the cut of the wood.
All the best!
I looked again at the link you sent and I believe that on some models, before staining, a light burning of the wood fiber is also done. This is a way of staining wood that has been used for hundreds of years. And here again it's the difference between late and early wood. They burn differently.
Good luck!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/06/27/arderea-lemnului-de-la-protectie-la-colorare/
Please answer the following: In an old house, between the first floor and the attic, the builder made the ceiling of 15 cm/ 25 cm resin beams at a length of 5.5 m, placed at a distance of 75 cm from each other. This work was done in autumn two years ago. The wood was green, not dried. The beams were burned with a gas lamp and were given with linseed oil. In the meantime, some of them have cracked,the cracks being quite large, please tell me how to cover these cracks, as I want to leave the beams exposed. What materials should I use? With thanks.
Good morning!
You must use wood putty. You can find all kinds of putties, in colours that reproduce the colour of wood (oak, walnut, pine) with really spectacular results. Thermoplastic ones are a good solution.
For small cracks, putties made of aracite mixed with wood dust from wood processing or nitrocellulose varnish mixed with wood dust can also be used.
The cracks in the beams are aesthetic, many do them especially because they give an old, rustic look to the room. Cracked beams may look much better than repaired ones. The really important issue is whether they are damaged in terms of strength and in this case, grouting does not solve the problem.
All the best!
Hello, thank you for your answer, if I may ask a few more questions.
What if the wood was dried in the kiln and still cracked?
The beams have been installed for 2 years, are they already dry?
How can I tell if the beams are damaged in terms of strength?
And if you can recommend me a putty of superior quality, thank you very much!
Good evening.
- It should stop cracking because it is supposed to have reached equilibrium moisture. This humidity depends on the environment. In our country's area the humidity for wood kept indoors is between 8 and 12% and for wood used outdoors 14-18%. If the humidity drops very much, as it does in winter, the balance is broken, the wood loses moisture, tensions appear in the wood and cracks are possible.
- Wood dried in natural conditions, on the stack, needs 1 year for every 2.5 cm + 1 year to reach equilibrium. Inside depends on how well the room has been ventilated.
- A builder can tell you. It depends on how deep the cracks are and what the risk of them cracking is.
- In the link below is a demonstration with Novoryt putty. On chitpentrulemn.ro you can find putties and information about grouting.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/11/07/umplerea-nodurilor-cazatoare-sau-cazatoore/
Good evening!
I join the group and thank you for all the advice you post.
I would like to make a decorative panel similar to this one: https://www.etsy.com/listing/220551197/wood-wall-art-reclaimed-wood-wall?ref=shop-shares-carousel-photo
What should I use: pigment or colour? I don't know what would be the best solution to keep the natural wood pattern. I will try to use pine wood and I don't know how to "paint" it...
Thank you and I wish you good luck in all good things!
Good evening!
It is an "end grain" panel, made with wood laid with the end of the grain up, not along the grain.
To achieve that effect you must first burn the wood superficially (burning dyeing - Japanese method Shou Sugi BanThen the surface is sanded so that the design of the wood is very visible (the contrast between late and early wood is as great as possible). After sanding and sanding a coloured filler (blue, green, light walnut, etc) is applied. At the end, after drying, protect the surface with oil ( linseed, tung, Danish oil).
In the article on burning staining you will also find such a finish. It is not for end grain, but the way of working is the same. The difference is the stronger end grain absorption and a slightly more difficult sanding.
All the best!
Hello. What is the best way to protect an aviary built entirely of osb?I mention that the construction was treated with 2in1 protective varnish brand Qober, but because the varnish does not cover the osb completely, pieces of it started to fall off due to the weather.The construction is 2 years old and you can see it in the link below.
https://www.sunphoto.ro/CrescatoriaBrinzea/Crescatoria_Brinzea/111723778
I am waiting for your answer.Thank you
Hello!
OSB is of several qualities. For outdoor use, the special, construction-grade, moisture-resistant type should be used. Ordinary OSB must be very well insulated so that it cannot absorb water. Otherwise, like chipboard, it absorbs moisture, swells and deteriorates over time. The board should be very well protected on all sides, including the edges, with varnish or exterior paint. Contact with the ground should be avoided to prevent moisture absorption.
The paint has a better resistance to the sun (UV radiation) over time. The varnish and the paint, if they are for outdoor use, resist the same humidity.
All the best!
Hello. What is the best way to protect an aviary made entirely of Osb?I would like to point out that the construction was treated with Qober 2in1 protective varnish, but because the varnish does not cover all the pieces of Osb started to fall off due to the weather.Would it be an option to use a paint?The construction is 2 years old.I have put a link below to see what it is about.I am waiting for your answer.Thank you.
http://www.sunphoto.ro/CrescatoriaBrinzea/Crescatoria_Brinzea/111723769
please help me with some advice! I have a table for the terrace with bare pine wood, I want to apply the Japanese wood burning technique on it. After this operation can I give it with antique color lacquer? Thank you very much !
Hello.
You can apply the lard. It looks best if, after burning, you brush the wood a little to remove the burnt part and open the grain. It is also a way to increase the absorption in the wood. If it is badly burnt (in the style of the Japanese Shou Sugi Ban method of protecting wood on the outside), the wood does not absorb anything. The burn layer works as a protective layer.
You can find more information in the link below.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/06/27/arderea-lemnului-de-la-protectie-la-colorare/
For mdf what paint and primer do you recommend? water-based or solvent-based? I don't trust what I find in DIY stores, especially as mdf is a material quite sensitive to moisture.
Thank you in advance for your answer.
Good evening!
The best option for MDF, in my opinion, are solvent-based polyurethane materials. Water-based products can also be used, but the quality is very important. Professional water-based products (the ones they finish with in factories) are made in such a way that they are not absorbed in large quantities by the MDF. In fact, the recommendation is to dilute them no more than 5% with water and only if necessary.
The quality of the MDF is also important. When the material is less dense and porous, the absorption is higher. Using a water-repellent material with a high water content can create problems. But even in this case, if instead of 1 thick layer you give several thin layers with drying and sanding between them, you can get a quality product.
All the best!
Hello,
I could use some advice too. We have just moved into our new house and have ordered some interior oak stairs. All well and good, except that after the stairs were installed and I came to see them I found that the shade I chose looked nothing like the one I have on the stairs now.
In short, I'd like to change their colour. The steps are laminated oak and are finished with water based varnish.
What would be the steps we would need to take to change the colour of the steps? I would like to change the colour of the staircase from a natural staircase that is more yellow to something natural but darker.
Thank you in advance for your answer!
Hello.
There are two variants. You can apply a coat of coloured varnish (the same varnish in which a quantity of colourant is added to achieve the desired colour) over the existing finish. The dye must be water-based to be compatible with the varnish. Before application, the existing varnish should be sanded so that the new layer has adhesion. If the initial varnish layer is thick the effect may not be as desired. Because it will not be able to mark the pores, the colour will remain on the surface, having a plastic-like appearance.
The other is more radical. You have to sand the whole finish, until you reach the wood, varnish the wood in the desired colour, then apply min. 2 coats of hard clear varnish (for heavy traffic). The look will be pleasant because, by staining, the natural design of the wood is enhanced and the varnish will keep its transparency.
All the best!
Hello I have a wooden garden shed that I would like to help against the weather, what do you think would be better to paint it? Specifically it has already had a coat of something on it since I bought it but I don't know what ,,lasur" I think, but due to the weathering it has started to fade and the wood is deteriorating. What do you advise me to reapply on it lasur or paint? Thank you.
Hello!
The most resistant is the paint (for the exterior). The film protects against moisture and the high pigment content protects against the sun. The disadvantage is that the wood is no longer visible.
In your case the problem may be the old coating. If there is peeling film, it will continue to peel even if you apply paint over it. In order not to have such surprises you should clean it first and then apply the new finish.
All the best!
I need another opinion. I built a house with a wooden attic last autumn. We have closed the attic with OSB and double glazing. The beams have been treated with a water-based substance that is non-repellent, anti-fungal and insecticidal. Some beams were drier, others less so (you can hardly find pine wood with the ideal moisture content on the market). I closed up the house and this spring when I went there some beams were moldy with black mold (it looked superficial). I took the mineral wool off the walls and found that only some beams were moldy and others in perfect condition. On the builder's advice I left the windows open and the infestation has stagnated. I started to rake the infested beams 1.5mm to treat the primer and lacquer.
The builder recommended that I use alkyd varnish (water-based ONLY) and that I treat the uninfested beams with varnish (kober 3in1) as soon as possible to avoid the risk of infestation. The infested ones he suggested me to rake them and treat them for the moment only with grud and let the summer heat dry them perfectly and in autumn to give them with paint or lazura.
My questions are:
what to do? Should I now spray the uninfested beams with lye or let them dry much better?
if I leave them untreated is there a risk that with the heat the mould will spread to them too? (the house is extremely ventilated at the moment).
Does the thinning still allow the wood to lose moisture naturally?
These beams are going to be covered with mineral wool and plasterboard ...I don't want to wake up a few years later to find that the plasterboard is full of black mould (which over time can be deadly).
Old documentation in the wood industry says that the ideal drying of wood is done by natural ventilation and exposure to a minimum of 4 seasons (depending on the thickness of the wood blanks). I unfortunately had no way to buy the wood 2 years before starting the construction. The wood will be completely covered after the interior fitting (by plasterboard) and there is enough thickness for healthy wood (2 layers with a spray gun). The lazura exists and very viscous I prefer to use it for the beams of the beam that are inclined.
I am waiting for your answers, opinions, advice.
Thank you.
Hello!
The reasons for mould are the high humidity of the wood, the lack of ventilation and the materials covering the wood that do not allow the circulation of vapours (attention, vapours, not water).
In the present situation the existing mould should be removed because it is a source for other infestations. Clean wood should be treated with an insect fungicide solution (available commercially). They are water-based, but this allows entry into the wood. Otherwise, the substance will remain on the surface and protection will be low. A 'home' solution against mould is sodium hypochlorite (chlorine for bleaching laundry). It is a very good solution against black mould. Concentrated hypochlorite is diluted with water (1 part to 3 parts water) and applied with a brush (spraying will be more difficult because of the smell). You can also apply it over already protected areas with a film.
Then let it dry by ventilating the space very well. Drying is most effective when air is circulating. Air circulation is more important than temperature. Think about how quickly streets dry out after rain, when it is windy, even if the temperature is low.
After 2-3 days after you have applied the wood preservative solution and allowed it to dry, protect the wood with linseed oil. It is a very good solution against moisture. In addition, the oil lets the wood exchange moisture naturally with the environment and the moisture can still escape. In this way no moisture remains in the wood which can lead to the development of insects, if larvae are already in the wood.
When covering wood with insulation and plasterboard, also use perspirant film. This film protects against water, but lets the moisture in the wood out. This avoids condensation that leads to mould and rot.
You mentioned that you have thick lacquer that you will apply to the goats. Do not apply a thick layer because there is a risk of cracking. In addition, the absorption into the wood is reduced which leads to reduced adhesion. When protecting wood the rule is: not one thick layer but several thin layers. Protection and resistance are much better.
All the best!
Thank you very much!
I started to rinse all the infested wood to completely remove the mould.
From what I understand you are recommending:
1. brushing with chlorine solution after cleaning of mould?
2. ventilation drying (72h)
3. linseed oil impregnation (brushing or spraying?)
4. let the wood dry in summer.
5. before the interior decoration can I put the goats on the goats? or is there no point?
6. final stage mineral wool, vapour barrier (aluminium foil) and final Rigips.
Please confirm point 5 or if I understood something wrong.
Good evening!
1. You can also use another solution against mould, hypochlorite is not mandatory. The important thing is that it works against black mould. I have used this and it gave good results.
3. Brushing is more suitable. When spraying you have high losses that create an unpleasant atmosphere. If the oil is thick, dilute it with white spirit (petrosin) to get it into the wood as well as possible so that the protection is maximum.
5. Products such as varnishes are recommended for exterior wood. You need insect and fungicide protection and moisture protection indoors. In addition, you need a coating that allows moisture exchange with the environment. Linseed oil does these things well. The only lack might be a stronger protection against insects (of the carrion beetle). Chlorine might not be enough. If the wood is dry enough (below 15%) the risk of insect attack is very low.
All the best!
Please recommend me a white paint for solid wood interior doors.
Hello!
Being solid wood doors, a water-based paint is the most suitable because it is more elastic. Wood has dimensional variations depending on humidity and a water-based paint allows this. If you paint them yourself, it is best to use paints available in DIY stores (Kober, Sadolin, Savana, etc). They are easier to apply. If you do them by hand, good products are those from ICASirca, Sayerlack, Renner, Milesi, etc. There are many very good products on the market. The important thing is the application. If the instructions are not followed even the best paint can lead to an unsatisfactory result.
All the best!
Hello! Thank goodness I discovered this website. In my opinion, through the pertinent answers you give, you answer many important questions that plague those who are interested in wood. And, by virtue of the statements made, I ask you a series of questions: now, at the beginning of April, I am going to build a wooden house, somewhere in a hilly area ... please tell me, after the erection of the wooden structure (beams, trusses, asteriala etc.) I must leave a time the structure to 'quiet down' (and how long?), with what substances to treat the wooden structure before proceeding to the interior and exterior finishes (linseed oil, varnish, etc.), what should be the drying time after each coat of substances given on the wood? Thank you ! And another urgent question : how do I subscribe to your magazine ?
Good evening!
Let's take them one by one:
- As far as I know, the only house manufacturers who let the wood settle are the log home builders. They use wood brought straight from the forest and it takes time to dry. During this time the house "settles". That's why a certain type of window fastening is needed to avoid problems with settling. Those who build houses on timber frame or prefabricated structures use kiln-dried or industrially dried timber (glulam, OSB, plywood, CLT) which does not need to settle. It is dimensionally stable so you can work with it without problems. I also advise you to consult a structural engineer (especially a structural engineer) to avoid any strength problems;
- the wood structure inside should be treated with insect repellents and fire retardants (unless you use treated wood). They are usually water-based, concentrated substances. It is best to treat the whole structure to avoid problems in the future;
- and outdoor wood should be treated with insect repellents. In addition it must be protected from moisture and UV radiation. A good moisture treatment is linseed oil. It should be applied in excess, so that the wood absorbs as much as it needs, but the excess should be wiped off. The oil does not form a film, and if left on top it becomes sticky over time. Linseed oil can also be used indoors without problems. The outdoor resistance of the oil is low, however, because it is washed off in the rain. Therefore, such a finish should be refreshed after 1-2 years. Totally transparent oil does not protect against UV radiation. For this it needs an addition of 4-5% coloured pigment.
On the outside the wood can be treated with varnishes, lacquers or paints. Paints are the most resistant over time because they completely cover the wood. This is also their disadvantage. Totally transparent varnishes (without a small pigment content) do not protect against the sun. All commercial varnishes, the ones for outdoors, have this small content. It does not influence transparency. Lacquers are the most used outdoor products. They are a kind of 2 in 1 or 3 in 1 material, containing dyes, film-forming products and sometimes insectofungicides.
Drying time for oil is 24 hours between coats. For other products, please refer to the manufacturer's instructions.
- to subscribe to the printed Wood Magazine click on the link below. All the steps to follow are described there. The printed magazine has 2 issues this year, like last year, one in March and one in September. The March issue is about wooden houses.
I hope this has been helpful. And thank you for your appreciation! 🙂
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2019/03/21/interesati-sa-vada-santier-casa-pasiva/
Hello! I am a new subscriber and I read with interest your comments about log houses. I have such a cottage, I let it sit for 4 years before putting in the windows. I had an adversarial discussion with the Qfort people who put the windows in two weeks ago and they didn't really consider the sliding sashes . They fastened the windows with long screws and the top, which has what implies possible pressure if the cottage continues to tilt. Their argument was that this is the way to do it, otherwise they couldn't give me a guarantee. What reassures me is that the space at the top has remained about 3-4 cm, which will allow the windows to slide down involving only slight bending of the screws. What is your opinion? For the outside, I'm looking for a longer lasting protective seal like Bondex. https://www.manomano.fr/lasure-exterieure-410?model_id=4485738&referer_id=543413 I have used it in the past and it is far superior to what I found on our market at the time. What brand of lard marketed in Romania do you advise me to use? Thank you!
Hello.
Specialists say it takes 3-5 years for a log home to reach equilibrium and complete subsidence. Significant movement is in the early years, so after 4 years I think there is no danger of it working so hard that it creates problems for windows. And the fact that you accepted their constructive option to get the warranty is a good thing, in my opinion. If there are any problems (which I don't think there will be) you can ask for the windows to be replaced.As far as I know the product that the manufacturer says lasts the longest is Tinova from Sadolin (12 years). Regardless of what the manufacturers say, the resistance of the materials is different depending on the area of the house, exposure to the cardinal points, how exposed it is to weather and UV radiation. Compliance with the application technology, with all the steps involved, is also very important for good resistance over time. And if you also do a regular maintenance of the finish every 3-4 years it is possible that the finish will remain intact for much longer than 12 years. Maintenance can be done with maintenance oils that are applied over the finish. Almost all companies have such products.
All the best!
Hello! First of all congratulations for the work you do and the patience with which you respond to everyone! I hope you can help me too. I want to paint a table set with wooden kitchen chairs. The set is white and I would like to keep it that way, but over time the paint has worn off and needs a refresh. I don't know what kind of paint was used, but the finish is matte. What products would you advise me to use, considering the environment (steam, grease from food) for the best resistance over time? Thank you!
Good evening!
Thank you for your appreciation.
The most resistant products used for finishing kitchen furniture are those with chemical hardening (polyurethane). As you do not know the nature of the white paint and do not intend to remove it but only to refresh it, I recommend using a water-based white paint. Water-based products are compatible with most varnishes. However, to make sure no problems occur, test the product on a more hidden area. If the paint does not run off the surface or crack after drying, then there will be no problems.
Before applying the furniture paint, it must be degreased for adhesion. Wash the furniture with soap and water or water and dishwashing detergent, wipe well and leave to rinse. For better adhesion it is best to lightly sand the surface with a fine abrasive sponge. The paint will still adhere without sanding because it is matt. Try to use as little diluted paint as possible. If there are any brush marks, dilute with a little water, but not more than 5-10%.
Good luck!
Good evening.
I bought some wooden rails for the fence. The wood is dry. I would like to give it a light-coloured lacquer. Something from Sadolin (I understand they are among the best). What do you recommend, how to proceed with the wood? Thank you!
Hello!
Usually, for fences, I recommend protecting with coloured oil-based varnishes. Oil protection is very good against water and the colour protects against UV rays. Oil resists less than varnish, but is easier to maintain and restore. Varnishes are more resistant, but they are given for conditions where the wood in question does not stand directly in the sun and in the rain. Without regular maintenance no finish will last 8-10 years. And if maintenance is not done every 2-3 years and it starts to peel, you will have to remove all the peeling layer before applying another coat of finish. For this reason I recommend the oil. It is removed in rainy weather (does not peel) and needs to be reapplied every 1-2 years, depending on how rainy the year has been. It does not require further preparation before applying another coat.
Regarding Sadolin products, I know they have a product - Tinova - for which they give the longest shelf life on the market, 12 years. But I repeat, without maintenance, no product lasts, especially if it is directly in rain, sun and wind, without any protection.
All the best!
Good evening!
I really appreciate your answers and I would like to know if I can use the outdoor and indoor lazura.
I mean I want to paint some exposed beams.
If you can also give me some advice on how to proceed or what to use better for this work I would be very grateful.
Thank you!
Hello!
Outdoor lazura can be used for indoors. Outdoor varnish has pigments resistant to direct light and UV radiation and good resistance to external factors (precipitation, wind). Using it indoors does not bother you at all but you will only lose its qualities, which are useless indoors. In the past, these substances also contained insectofungicides, which made it impossible to use them for finishing wood with which it came into contact frequently. Now there are few products that use such substances (due to restrictive legislation) and if you use wood varnish for exposed beams there is no problem.
I would do those beams differently. I would first paint them with a dip in the desired colour, let them dry, then apply 2 coats of oil. They will get a very authentic natural look.
All the best!
How do I go about finishing an interior ceiling panelled with resin to highlight the fibre and give it a pleasing appearance? Without burning!
Hello!
By brushing with a wire brush, followed by sanding with 150 or 180 grit so that the wood regains its smoothness. The brush should not have very fine bristles because they scratch the wood.
A slight highlighting of the grain can also be obtained by staining the wood with a water-based stain. Absorption is different and a light profiling of the wood is obtained, more noticeable to the touch. Being a ceiling I don't think it is a viable solution.
The fibre is also highlighted by sandblasting - sanding - but a special gun is needed. The method is similar to cleaning old layers of paint. If the panelling is fitted the operation is difficult and you need a specialist.
All the best!
Hello
I have a house that has a lot of wood on the outside. My father was a carpenter and wood was his soul. And he put his soul into this house... not only the woodwork but the balconies and the terrace. The latter I need scaffolding to work on. That's why I have to use products that will protect the wood as long as possible. Please help me with a recommendation in this regard.
Hello!
The product for which the manufacturer gives the longest shelf life (12-15 years) is Sadolin's Tinova. But the durability of a finish depends on many things: how it is applied, the drying time, how the house is oriented (towards which cardinal point), how protected the surface is (is it directly in the rain or in the sun or does it have awnings), what the climate is like in the area, the salinity of the air in the area, etc. All this means that the finished surface has a different life, sometimes on different areas of the same house. That's why I recommend using professional products from companies that make wood varnishes and paints for factories (ICA, Sirca, Milesi, Renner, Sayerlack, etc.) and ask for all necessary application instructions. Ask for a working technology and follow it exactly. This is the only way you will have a life time for the finish as close as possible to the maximum given by the prospective companies (8-10-12 years).
To prolong this time maintenance is very important. But I understand that it is difficult to do.
All the best!
Thank you very much for your answer. The house is located in Curtea de Arges and only on the north side there is no wood. As far as I know, my father initially used resin based varnishes. I think I will have to take this into account in my choice of products. I will go tomorrow to one of your recommended dealers.
Hello,
I have recently finished building a wooden garden house (clad in panelling) and want to paint it grey and white, to protect the wood I used:
- 1 coat of linseed oil in the first phase, moistened to give it another coat after it dries
- I am going to give two coats of alkyd wood paint (Kober Idea)
- I was thinking that after the paint to apply wood varnish (Kober Yacht Plus) based on alkyd resins
Is this order ok? I should mention that the wood is dried, cleaned and sanded.
Thank you!
Hello!
The paint is more durable compared to varnish. Continuous pigments stay in the way of UV radiation protecting both the finish coat and the wood. Lacquer can be used for aesthetic reasons because it gives depth and gloss. However, it may crack faster than the paint layer.
Order is good. Don't overdo the oil. If the wood does not look dry 24-48 hours after applying the oil coat, do not apply another coat. Excess oil in the wood can expand on hot summer days and push into the film, peeling it off. I have seen this phenomenon with wooden windows kept in oil for a while. In summer the windows looked like they were crying with oil tears.
All the best!
Hello,
Thank you kindly for your reply, unfortunately it is drying out harder due to the rainy weather.
Have a nice day!
Hello,
I forgot to ask if it still makes sense to apply wood varnish (Kober Yacht Plus) over the paint.
Thank you!
No varnish needed. Paint is sufficient.
I discovered your website in my network searches! I didn't know about it and I discover an intense and rich dialogue, obviously very useful to us, those who use wood... I have run it, it's true, a bit quickly (I've decided to browse it over and over...!), but I haven't found the answer to my main question...
We have recently become an official manufacturer of wooden and metal toys (the latter used only for assembling components...!). I haven't yet gone on the market because of the paperwork and files required by the current legislation and I'm glad I found you, because you could be a help, a support in my activity. So, could you recommend me some manuals, an ABC for knowing the types and characteristics of wood with its processing methods, because, although I had a different opinion, I find many gaps in the secrets of working techniques ... (I worked especially metal, so far ...) I'm from Craiova, if you could recommend me masters, craftsmen in my area from whom I can learn something ... or if those who read can do that ...
And one last question...: what paints, primers, lacquers, etc. do you recommend (brands, types, qualities...) for use on wooden toys so that "there is no risk of harmful effects on human health, caused by exposure to chemicals or preparations that enter into the composition of toys..." (quoting from HG 74/2011, the Toy Safety Law...!).
Thank you in advance,
Ionel Cinca, Craiova
Hello.
Unfortunately there is not much documentation in Romanian. Many of the people I talk to buy books from England. I have bought some from the Faculty of Wood Industrialization, from Brasov (Transylvania University) or from the Faculty of Architecture or Construction, but they are too technical, scholastic.
In revistadinlemn.ro you can find a lot of technical information. For more than 3 years we have been writing about all kinds of topics. You will find the characteristics of wood species, joints, processing methods, materials about varnishes, adhesives, sanding, finishing, etc. I hope it will help you.
Products that can be used for toys must have this specified in the technical data sheet, otherwise they are not accepted. For example, polyurethane varnishes, once they are thoroughly dried and the chemical reaction is considered complete (14 days), become chemically inert and can be used for finishing toys or cribs. But if this is not specified in the technical documentation of the varnish you will not receive approvals for toys.
Another issue is water-based products. These must be labelled as organic or eco. Some water-based products can be more toxic than solvent-based products. Their only advantage is that they are not flammable.
Natural oils I know are suitable for finishing toys. There are companies that sell such oils that work with companies that make toys. Mineral oil is used for finishing bowls and wooden objects used in the kitchen.
Local craftsmen don't come to mind at the moment, but I'll think about it. In Ramnicu Valcea there is someone who makes wooden toys and I know that he was in the process of approval some time ago (Nicolae Rosioru).
I hope you found it useful.
All the best!
Hello! I make paintings with string art technique and I recently received an order for a large size painting, more precisely 60X80 cm. I use pine wood and it is not dried when I buy it. At that size the wood will warp. Do you think I could use some kind of varnish to slow down this process? Or do you know of a method I could use to stop the warping? Thank you!
Good evening.
To my shame, I didn't know what string art was, but I'm glad you gave me the opportunity to find out.
I think the best thing you can do is to make reinforcements on the back (glue wood on the 2 diagonals). They will oppose the resistance and cancel the tension given by the wires.
Also, for drying control, apply paraffin wax or wax to the edge of the panel where the fibre ends are (the cutting area of the panel). This will slow down the water flow, reduce tensions and reduce the risk of warping or cracking. Unfortunately there is no varnish to prevent wood warping during drying. The only way wood can be preserved at the moisture content at the time of cutting without any problems is to dip it in epoxy resin. But at this size it is very difficult.
All the best!
Hello, we would like to paint the roof guard in white, but trying to use Kober Ecolasure the results were poor at covering the wood with colour. We have used the recommended impregnant without success. Could you please recommend a way to get a good coating? Thank you!
Good evening!
I'm thinking you used a lacquer that had less hiding power. In general, varnish stains wood without covering it completely. If you want the wood to be fully coated you should use paint, not varnish or impregnating agent. With 2 coats of paint you will definitely get a good coverage of the wood. Use exterior paint (alkyd).
All the best!
Hello,
A big request. I have bought a cottage (fir wood panelling) for the little girl, for outside. Now we want to protect it... Do you think it is enough to use primer and varnish? Or would we need something else?
Thank you very much!
I forgot to mention that in some places we want to apply colors...
Hello!
It is sufficient if you use primer and varnish/paint for the exterior. In general, the wood used for such outdoor cottages has a minimum of treatment for protection against fungi, insects and mould. And some primers (applied as a first coat) also have such insect-fungicidal substances.
Avoid colourless or white materials. They are the least resistant to the outside.
All the best!
Hello,
I recently purchased a pine holiday cottage. The company that delivered it mentions that the wood has been treated during drying and that all that needs to be done is to apply a 3 in 1 varnish/oil/lacquer after completion of the assembly.
Is it correct to use Sadolin Base primer and then white paint? The idea is that we want the house in white but we would like to be able to apply a treatment to the wood before painting.
Thank you for all the information provided on this site and I await your response in the hope that you can confirm the steps to be followed and whether we can apply paint over this primer. Possibly if you can recommend the type/brand of paint in a better quality.
Hello.
If the company says it is treated wood, it means they have used insect fungicides to protect the wood from attack by insects, blue mould and fungi. Most companies that build houses do this treatment.
Now you need to protect the wood against moisture and UV radiation. Sadolin is one of the best brands, so you've made the right choice. Apply Sadolin Base first, 2-3 coats with drying in between, according to the instructions. Then apply 2 coats of Sadolin Extra white paint.
All the best!
Hello,
Thank you for your prompt response. Sadolin Base we found, we will use colorless. But Sadolin Extra white is all I can find: https://www.dedeman.ro/ro/lac/-lazura-pentru-lemn-sadolin-extra-mahon-interior/-exterior-10-l/p/5007571 and it seems to me that it's not exactly white. I'm worried it's going to come out yellowish white. I was thinking if an ok option would be alkyd wood/metal paint, Kober Opal, interior/exterior, white (like here https://www.dedeman.ro/ro/vopsea-alchidica-pentru-lemn/-metal-kober-opal-interior/-exterior-alb-2-5-l/p/5014883)
The finish we want is matte, which is why I thought this Kober would work. As an idea, we want it to look like this: https://www.casablancaolimp.com/photos/
Thank you in advance for your time both to me and to others confused like me 🙂
Have a nice day!
PS: I apologize if somehow I'm not allowed to post links, please delete them if necessary. I have added it so that you can better understand what variants I am referring to.
Hello.
I recommended Sadolin Extra because you have already chosen Sadolin primer. I think it is good to use the complete system from the same supplier. If problems occur, when materials from several suppliers are used they blame each other for what happened.
But I understand that you want to totally cover the wood, to use paint. In this case the Kober version is better, being white paint. Sadolin Extra is lazura, it does not have the same covering capacity as paint. There is no point in using Sadolin Base. It is a primer that ensures the adhesion of Sadolin lacquers to wood. From the Kober paint data sheet (which you can download from the link you sent me) it does not recommend a primer as per coat but says to make sure the paint has adhesion. That is, the surface can absorb the paint.
Alkyd paints are exterior resistant.Basically, they are the synthetic cousin of the oil-based paints of yesteryear.
Over time it is possible that the paint will take on a very slightly yellowish tint, not remaining that clean, bright white, as in the photos, because white is the least resistant colour to the outside.
All the best!
Hello,
Can you recommend a white exterior paint?
I want to paint the panelling of the sageac.
Thank you very much
Hello.
Sage is a protected part of the house so you don't need a paint with extraordinary properties. The important thing is that the paint you buy is outdoor resistant. You can find a lot of exterior resistant paints in DIY or specialist shops (Kober, Savana, Oskar, Policolor, Danke, Pitura).
Note that white paint is the least resistant to solar radiation of all colours. Over time it can take on a slightly yellowish colour, especially if it stands in direct sunlight. Being an arrowhead, this is not the case.
All the best!
Hello!
I made a garden furniture out of old oak ( goron). It sits outside all the time, uncovered.
Please recommend a product/method to protect wood.
Thank you very much!
Hello!
I would use an outdoor oil. The oil brings out the natural beauty of the gorun and protects the furniture against moisture. You can find commercially available oil-based varnish. I recommend using a coloured varnish (a light colour, so as not to change the colour of the wood too much). The pigments in the oil protect against solar radiation. It sits in the way and reflects it.
You will need to apply several coats, with a 24-hour drying time between them. Apply until you see that the wood is saturated, no longer absorbing.
The oil on the surface is washed off in rainy weather. When you see that the wood loses that silky sheen from the oil, apply another coat.
When buying, make sure it is oil with a little pigment, not oil-based paint or resin-containing grease. These make a film that takes away from the beauty of the wood and over time can crack (due to movement of the wood with varying humidity outside). Refinishing in this case is more difficult. You will have to remove all the cracked film and apply new coats.
Below are links to articles that may help you.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2019/04/17/7-reguli-de-respectat-la-finisarea-cu-ulei-a-lemnului/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/05/15/ulei-de-in-cand-unde-si-cum-se-foloseste-cum-sa-ti-faci-singur-vopsele-de-ulei/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/06/25/8-cele-mai-frecvente-intrebari-despre-protejarea-lemnului-la-exterior/
Hello. Please help me if you could. I have an old hardwood fence (I think oak). Over the years I have painted it with different paints based on thinner or water. I have now sanded it down to the wood grain and removed everything. What do you recommend to get it to the dark brown color, but just be color, no wood structure showing. I have purchased a water based impregnator from kober and a yacht villa spor from policolor also water based. I have read that the latter could crack. What do you advise for a long lasting result and a more pronounced colour? thanks
Good evening!
If you want to keep the wood from showing I recommend linseed oil (or alkyd) or water-based exterior paint.
The oil-based paint has good moisture resistance and is sufficiently elastic. So is water-based paint for outdoors. Yacht paint is probably very hard so there is a risk of cracking. Hard paints have lower elasticity and may crack when the wood moves naturally. Paints made specifically to finish wood outdoors are more elastic, which allows them to move with the wood without cracking. They are less hard (lower resistance to scratching).
To get an intense colour apply 2-3 coats of paint.
All the best!
Thank you for your answer. Please, can you recommend me a product before painting for wood protection? I also noticed a couple of holes in the wood, so it was affected by decay. Can an oil based primer, or plain oil, provide a protective base and better drainage?
If you have curry holes and the insect is inside it is harder, treatments are more aggressive. Those that can be applied as a paint (impregnants, products with insect fungicides) are for prevention, so that the wood is not attacked by decay. Once the woodworm has entered the wood the treatment is very aggressive because the larvae dig deep tunnels in the wood and it is very difficult to reach them. Treatment usually consists of repeated gassings. In the links below you can find more information about curries. Holes are not always an indication that the insect is inside. Watch for fine wood dust to appear from these holes. It is a sure indication that the larva is inside.
If the holes are hollow and the wood is not infested, you can treat it with primers or impregnators containing insect fungicides (usually available commercially as 3-in-1 products). There are also separate water-based products that treat wood before applying paint. Before applying the paint, the wood is allowed to dry thoroughly.
The oil is not an insectofungicide, it does not protect against ticks. And, very importantly, oil and water do not mix. So, if you apply an oil as an initial coat, you can only apply oil-based or alkyd paint over it. Water-based paint has no adhesion.
Below, in addition to the links related to the curry, you have 2 other links related to protecting wood outside. I think you will find them helpful.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/08/08/despre-cari-motivul-aparitiei-ciclul-de-viata-preventie-tratamente/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/08/23/tratamente-naturale-impotriva-carilor/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/06/25/8-cele-mai-frecvente-intrebari-despre-protejarea-lemnului-la-exterior/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/08/03/12-reguli-simple-pentru-a-avea-constructii-din-lemn-rezistente-la-exterior/
Hello!
I would like you to recommend what product I can use for interior wood panelling made of softwood. I want to keep the wood structure as natural as possible. Thank you.
Hello!
Use linseed or tung oil. The wood will be protected without filming, leaving a very pleasant appearance. Kreidezeit products are again very suitable for finishing wood. They are mixtures of natural oils that protect the wood well and preserve its natural appearance.
If you want to use varnishes, you can use both solvent-based and water-based. Apply a maximum of 2 thin coats so that the film formed is not thick. Use matt varnishes, not glossy ones.
All the best
Good evening! With what to protect the wood in the attic ( floor, rafters ) ? Thanks
Hello!
To protect against woodworm, mould and fungi, use a water-based insect-fungicide solution applied directly to the wood. Such products can be found in DIY or specialist shops.
For wood that is not visible, it is enough. There is no point in applying varnish or other protection to hidden wood already protected by construction. If there is a risk that it will be subject to permanently increased humidity, it should be protected with oil or water-based varnish.
For visible wood I recommend oil and wax. First oil, 2 starts with 24 hours drying time in between and finally wax. Use linseed oil, tung oil or mixtures of wood oils produced by different companies (Kreidezeit can be a solution). For floors, if you want very good scratch resistance, use hardening varnishes. I recommend water-based varnishes. This eliminates unpleasant smells in the house and the risk of fire. You can also use oil and/or wax, but this system does not have the mechanical resistance of a hardening varnish. If the wood is hardwood (oak, ash, acacia) the risk of scratches is lower. There are special oils and waxes for floors.
All the best!
Hello. In an annex (without heating) next to the house, I have installed 3-4 years ago, two wooden doors, worked by dogar, one in fir or spruce wood, the other in oak wood. Both doors are on the same wall, with direct exposure to sunlight, oriented East-South. So far they have been treated with a coating of mineral oil (not linseed oil), which has already been absorbed. Unfortunately, the thresholds have blackened. In order to increase their lifespan, but also to make them look as aesthetically pleasing as possible, I would like to ask you what is the appropriate treatment to follow (varnish or paint), both outside and inside. Thank you very much for your answer.
Good evening!
The oil is a good treatment against humidity, but it needs to be replenished from time to time (because it is removed in time of precipitation) and it must also contain a quantity of pigment (be lightly coloured) to resist UV radiation. In your case, being so exposed, the urns should be re-oiled annually.
The black side should be sanded down to clean wood and then protected.
If you want to use another protection system you should use oil-based varnishes and lacquers or white spirit (petrosin) to be compatible with the oil still remaining on the wood. Water-based products do not mix with oil.
The best protection, with great resistance over time, is the paint for the exterior. In this case, however, you lose the natural beauty of the wood, as its natural pattern is no longer visible. The lightly coloured varnish has good resistance over time and has the advantage that the wood remains visible.
All the best!
Hello.
I ordered a solid oak bathroom vanity top, the wood will just be finished.
What treatment should be applied to waterproof it, given the humidity in the bathroom?
Thank you!
Hello!
By existing finish I take it you mean sanding. You can use hardening varnishes (polyurethane, acrylic) or oil. Varnishes protect for a longer time, oil protection needs to be re-applied from time to time. Oil-based varnish is much more beautiful and highlights the beauty of the oak. But you must protect the wood very well, applying 2-3 coats of oil, wiping 30-45 min. after application and drying for 24 hours between coats. Apply on both sides and on the edges, including where there are cuts. You can use linseed oil, tung oil, or blends such as Kreidezeit or Danish oil.
All the best!
Good evening,
Ms Mihaela, I have a love-hate relationship with this site, which I discovered recently and accidentally.
Although I am a very busy and stressed man - much above average, too high anyway, at least in Bucharest - at the first meeting I "lost" almost a whole night reading random articles. All well written, useful and interesting, not to say even exciting, but the next day I was nauc at the office...
On the second date the same thing happened, so from then on I started to take care of myself and control my impulses... and now I visit the site only by appointment.
My father started his professional life as an apprentice to a Polish cabinetmaker, established in Romania in the interwar period and specialized in wooden parts for car bodies... a true art. Probably from my father I inherited the passion and interest for wood - unfortunately, not the skill 🙁
Which brings me to the point.
I got it into my head to build my grandson's first "real" bed with my own hands. First grandchild, first bed, I hope I need to make more. A bed made of wood, that will be a reminder of "the budicu" (not a typo) - at least until he makes it out of barbecue wood.
I'm running into several problems, most of them caused by the clumsiness I was talking about, but in the context of this article, what I want to ask you is - what (white) paint would you choose for such a piece of furniture? There is no other option than white paint, this being the explicit request of the beneficiary 🙂
Thanks - both for the suggestion I'm waiting for and for the whole site.
Hello!
I think it's the nicest compliment I've received since we launched the online magazine. I had no idea it could be addictive. Thank you, both me and my colleagues. I would just add that, thanks to you, I was fine all day, despite the fact that I also went to the dentist. 🙂
Long live your grandson! The crib paint must be environmentally friendly. Don't go on the idea that if it's water-based, it's eco-friendly. It isn't, but many salespeople will try to convince you otherwise. The paint can should say that it is environmentally friendly and can be used for finishing toys or cribs. Unfortunately I can't direct you to a specific brand. But on the net there are several brands that say their paint is eco-friendly (vitex, carousel, edecorator). Vitex I know uses a reader and is happy with the quality. But he doesn't necessarily want eco-friendly. We have to see if this option is available.
You can also use natural oil-based paints (Kreidezeit), recommended for finishing toys. However, they are less mechanically resistant than resin-based paints.
I promise I'll keep looking and let you know if I find anything.
All the best!
Hello,
I'm glad you interpreted my message as a compliment. That's exactly what it was meant to be, a compliment, a sincere one.
I would add one more, for you and all the commenters here as well. For those who spend a lot of time on the Internet, on online media forums and on various commenting platforms, the friendly, calm, relaxed and peaceful atmosphere here is like a balm for a brain intoxicated with the gratuitous badinage, hatred and hostility that prevails in the comments on the most frequented Romanian websites.
Coming back to the topic, I finally opted for Vitex Aquavit Eco (and for I don't know what primer they recommended). I don't know how eco it is, but at least it has some certifications, and people seem to have taken the discussion seriously beyond the marketing aspects. It's a bit more expensive than the paints you find in DIY chains, but not dramatically more expensive.
I hope to get to paint the spaceship next weekend. I'll be back with some impressions at my amateur level.
Goodbye!
Hello!
I really do ask you to tell me how the paint behaved.
Good luck!
good evening.
I am writing to you with the following request:
I am building a gazebo out of fir wood and I want to treat the wood with light grey paint/lacquer/etc. at the end.
Can you please recommend me what is best - paint, varnish, lacquer etc., the steps to be followed beforehand and possibly a specific manufacturer?
Thank you very much!
Hello!
The most resistant on the outside is paint, followed by varnish and the least resistant is varnish.
I would use an oil-based coloured varnish for the patio. Kreidezeit products are very good, in my opinion. Properly applied they last for years.no maintenance.
Lazuta on the basis of hawks is not difficult to apply. The wood must be sanded beforehand. Apply a first coat, in excess, let it soak for 30-45 min, then wipe off the excess. Leave to dry until the next day (24 hours), then apply another coat, under the same conditions. If you find that the wood is still absorbing, apply another coat. The more oil the wood absorbs, the better protected it will be. To reduce costs you can apply a first coat of colourless exterior varnish (a kind of primer).
All the best!
Hello, I discovered you today and I am very excited. Congratulations for your work!
I have a question. I would like to buy wooden fences from Dedeman to surround a grave for 1-2 years. Please tell me how to proceed further. I think it is battered from what I have seen in the pictures. Would it be good to continue with 1 -2 layers with lacquer? In your previous message you wrote that you apply excess lacquer in the first coat and then remove the excess after 40 minutes. What do you remove the excess with?
Thank you for your reply and good luck in all you do!
Hello!
Thanks for your appreciation!
If it's linseed oil-based lye, yes, the excess needs to be removed. Linseed oil does not dry completely and remains sticky. Remove the excess with a soft cotton cloth.
You can also use water-based lye and in this case there is no need to wipe off the excess. Brush on 2 coats, drying in between. If it's only 1-2 years, all water-based lacquers on the market last without drying out.
Another option is alkyd paint, but the wood grain will no longer be visible.
All the best!
Thank you for your answer!
For furniture shine I have tried many products and without success,
do you think I could try using varnish or a certain wood varnish?
I await your authoritative response.
Hello!
Lacquers are products that stain and protect wood used outdoors. They are not for giving gloss to wood.
For gloss you need to buy a gloss varnish.
Gloss is measured using the gloss level and, in general, 0 to 40 are matt varnishes, 40 to 80 are glossy and 80 to 100 are mirror (or high gloss).
Mirror gloss is difficult to achieve, even if a high gloss varnish is used, because it depends very much on the application conditions. The gloss is due to light reflection. The flatter the surface and the more free of impurities, the better it reflects light and the higher the gloss will be.
Sorry for this introduction, but I was going to say that it's hard to get a nice shine in home conditions.
The light is also hard to maintain. Dust and fingerprints show up much better on a glossy surface than on a matt one.
My advice is to use a semi-gloss varnish (gloss level between 40 and 60). The application restrictions are lower, the furniture will have a discreet, satin sheen and maintenance will be easier.
For more information about glossy furniture please visit the links below.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2020/01/16/7-reguli-pentru-luciu-perfect-pe-lemn-si-mdf/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/04/25/lac-mat-sau-lac-lucios-alegerea-sigura-sau-cea-riscanta/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/07/26/ce-este-polisarea-de-ce-este-nevoie/
Hello,
I would like to change the colour of the kitchen furniture, which is oak, to give it a darker varnish and lacquer over the current varnish which has worn off, preferably a water-based varnish, but without the need for glazing. I would like you to tell me if this is possible and possibly the names of the bath and varnish I need.Thank you.
Hello!
It's hard to get a quality varnish without sanding. If the old varnish has bounced off, the new varnish layer will not stop the remaining pieces of varnish from coming off. Over time they will come off the wood with the new varnish layer. Another reason why sanding should be done is that, in order to have compatibility with the old layers, you should use a water-based varnish which, if the surface is not sanded, has poor adhesion. At the slightest knock it comes off and can be peeled off the entire surface like leather.
But there is a situation where you can lace without sanding. If the furniture was originally made with nitro varnish. As it is a widely used varnish you might have this chance. You can check with acetone (nail polish remover). Put a little on a piece of cotton wool and try to wipe the varnish in a hidden area. If it takes is nitro varnish. In this case buy clear, solvent-based nitro varnish in the desired colour (available in DIY stores such as Dedeman, Hornbach, Brico Depo or those selling wood products). Put the varnish in the varnish so that you get the desired shade (check on a piece of wood). Then apply the coloured varnish to the furniture with a brush or solvent-resistant sponge brush in 2 coats, drying in between.
But before applying the coloured varnish you must degrease the furniture, i.e. wash it (wipe it well) with water and detergent. After washing wipe it with a dry cloth and let it shake until the next day, then you can varnish it.
Below is a link that may be helpful.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/06/13/cum-sa-aduci-la-viata-cufarul-vechi-din-pod/
I discovered this site, looking for ways to refurbish an old dowry chest. The wood is quite weathered and I'm not sure what treatments to apply to it, I would be very grateful if you would take the time to tell me what I should start with. Thank you in advance! Please know that I greatly appreciate people who give their time and devotion to old crafts. I respect your work!
Hello!
Thanks for your appreciation!
I don't quite understand how the wood is affected, but I'm trying a few guesses.
If it is affected by decay, before any other finishing, it must be treated to get rid of them. You have below links to articles where you can find various solutions.
If it's still sagging in places, it's been attacked by rot. If it is not badly affected it can be treated with glass water - sodium silicate. The solution hardens the wood and is also used by restorers to save various precious wooden objects.
If it's just accumulated dirt over time, you just need to clean it. How to clean it is shown in the links below.
After cleaning, if the crate is not painted, I recommend protecting the wood with oil (linseed oil, tung oil, Danish oil, Kreidezeit oils, etc). Apply the excess oil, let the wood absorb 30-45 min, then wipe off the excess. Wiping is very important to prevent the wood from becoming sticky. Repeat 2-3 times until the wood no longer absorbs. The oil will protect and nourish the wood. Finally, apply a coat of wood wax and polish with a cotton cloth after a few hours. The wax will protect the wood and the finish.
Sorry for the large number of links. I thought it was easier that way than searching the site for them yourself.
Good luck!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/08/08/despre-cari-motivul-aparitiei-ciclul-de-viata-preventie-tratamente/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/08/23/tratamente-naturale-impotriva-carilor/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2020/07/30/cum-scapi-de-cari-si-alti-daunatori-ai-lemnului-solutii-anticarii-lemn/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/06/02/tratarea-lemnului-cu-silicat-de-sodiu/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/06/13/cum-sa-aduci-la-viata-cufarul-vechi-din-pod/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2020/02/26/cum-poti-scoate-mirosurile-neplacute-din-mobilier/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/09/15/cum-se-curata-stratul-vechi-de-vopsea/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2019/04/17/7-reguli-de-respectat-la-finisarea-cu-ulei-a-lemnului/
Hello, I recently bought a garden shed made of untreated spruce wood, could you please tell me what kind of treatment and protection to use? thank you
Hello!
I prefer oil-based varnishes for exterior wood. They protect well, apply and maintain easily.
Before, for safety, the wood should be treated with insect-fungicide solutions.
In the links below you can find such ideas for finishing and protection.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2020/08/27/tratament-preventiv-impotriva-ciupercilor-mucegaiului-si-a-insectelor-care-ataca-lemnul/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2020/07/02/lazuri-kreidezeit-pe-baza-de-ulei-pentru-finisaj-exterior-natural-si-rezistent/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/06/25/8-cele-mai-frecvente-intrebari-despre-protejarea-lemnului-la-exterior/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/08/03/12-reguli-simple-pentru-a-avea-constructii-din-lemn-rezistente-la-exterior/
Hello,
I have a little coffee table, too, left by my grandparents. The table is made of wood, but the lacquer on it has worn off in places and now it doesn't look very nice. I was going to go over a coat of colored oil or even wax, but after reading the article I don't know if wax would be better.
What would you recommend?
Hello!
If when you say lye you mean a coloured oil/lacquer, it may be a solution. Classic lacquers, the ones you find in the shops, are products used to finish wood used for exterior applications. Water-based lacquers are not recommended for interior finishing because they have low resistance to scratching. Oil-based finishes can also be used indoors.
You can apply coloured oil to the table as it is now, but the varnish will continue to bleed once the peeling has started and soon other areas without varnish will appear. It is best to sand or strip the old varnish layer. After that use coloured oil and for extra protection and a silky look, apply a coat of wax at the end.
Below are 2 links that you might find useful.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2019/04/17/7-reguli-de-respectat-la-finisarea-cu-ulei-a-lemnului/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2020/10/29/ce-trebuie-sa-stii-daca-vrei-sa-revopsesti-mobila-sau-usile-de-lemn/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/09/15/cum-se-curata-stratul-vechi-de-vopsea/
I have a d intensusumea of wood -brad. What colour paint should I use for traffic?
Hello!
Use varnishes or paints for parquet. Both water-based and solvent-based materials are available. If the floorboard is fitted I recommend using water-based varnish and applying it with a stiff sponge trowel. Apply 2-3 coats with drying in between and sanding the first coat so that the surface remains smooth, not sticky. Sanding is done with a fine abrasive sponge or 280 or 320 grit sandpaper.
All the best!
Hello! I have some questions if you can help me. I would like to paint a solid oak table with a general opaque colour over which I would like to make some patterns with UV paint or normal paint if not possible with a UV one. I would like to know if it is possible to do this and if so what primer or finish should I opt for? And if I should prepare the wood with something else besides enamel and primer? I would like to mention that this is a kitchen table. Incidentally, if you have any other tips for me or product recommendations I should use in general I would be grateful, it's my first time doing this. Thank you very much and have a nice day!
Hello!
UV curing involves high temperatures where the radiation reaches. That's why you need to use a chemically hardening undercoat (polyurethane or waterborne with hardener). They are resistant and radiation does not affect them.
You can also use a nitro paint as a base over which to make the patterns with acrylic painting paints. They do not interact with each other. You will still need to fix everything with a varnish to make sure the pattern doesn't get taken away. An acrylic varnish on solvent protects well and does not alter the colours. Protection can also be done with a colourless wax, but it is sensitive to high temperatures and alcohol stains. Being a kitchen table, this can be a problem.
Sanding is important because it ensures the adhesion of the varnish to the wood and the final smoothness of the table surface. The wood is sanded with a coarse abrasive sponge and the varnish with a fine abrasive sponge. You have below links about sanding.
To achieve a surface that is pleasant to the touch, sand the primer after drying. The wood grain lifts when you apply the primer, gets loaded with primer and after drying becomes hard and unpleasant to the touch.
Good luck!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2016/08/02/slefuirea-pentru-pasionatii-de-bricolare/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/01/16/ce-este-si-de-ce-este-importanta-slefuirea-intre-straturi/
Hi. I have a problem with the oak steps for the concrete staircase in the living room.
I gave two crumbs of oskar silicone lazuri (bait for wood it says on the box). I sanded a step between the two sandpaper with sandpaper p240,
Another step I haven't sanded,
The third step I didn't sand and the third I gave myself with wachs parquet oil 30 gloss.
The problem is that they all peel off when I use my fingernail.
What could I do? Can it be sanded down to start from scratch with other products?
Hello!
Oskar silicone varnish is an exterior varnish. Exterior varnishes are softer, more elastic, not suitable for finishing stairs or flooring/
As for the Borma floor oil, I think you applied too thick a coat. It needed to be thinned to get into the wood and have adhesion. It's always better to apply 2-3 coats thinner than one thick coat.
For varnishes to adhere to wood you must sand the wood first. Sanding is done with 150-180 grit sandpaper or medium abrasive sponge. After sanding, sand the wood and then apply the varnish.
All the best!
Hello,
I made the roof of a house with fir wood that is not dry + a small terrace with support posts also made of fir wood.
The roof is perfectly watertight and no water reaches the wood.
Next I'll put the guard and the arrow.
I want to apply a treatment to the guard, the arrow, the pine posts, the planks on which the board is placed.
What solution do you recommend for an efficient protection of the above mentioned materials?
Thank you in advance for your reply.
Hello!
It should first be treated with an insect-fungicide solution to protect it from insect attack and mould growth. As the wood is untreated the risk of attack is higher. You can find such solutions commercially available. My advice is to use a solution specifically for this, not combinations with varnish or paint (like 3 in 1). Usually they are concentrated solutions that you dilute with water depending on the type of wood.
After treatment, apply coloured linseed oil, tung oil or oil-based laxative. Products based on natural oils let moisture out of the wood.
Good luck!
Good evening. Could you please tell me if a lacquered wooden object can be painted? I have used Sadolin's thick translucent lazier and it is absolutely awful colour. It's nothing like on the box. Thanks and good luck with everything!
Hello!
Yes, you can stain it with an alkyd paint.
Good luck!
Hello.
I have some pine stairs (raw, untreated, unpainted wood) not yet assembled. The wood has been drying for years. What coats should I apply, what products should I use (do I get lost catching impregnating solutions, baths, varnishes and the like)? The stairs will be mounted indoors, low traffic. I'd like to give it an oak shade without completely covering the fiber though. Is this possible?
Thank you.
Hello!
It is possible to stain the oak and then varnish it, leaving the grain visible. The materials used are solvent- or water-based oak wood stain and solvent- or water-based parquet varnish. These are materials you can find in DIY stores or those selling wood varnishes and paints. There is another option, to use oak stained floor varnish. Varnish, not paint, so that the wood grain remains visible. In this case you need to apply it evenly because otherwise colour streaks appear. Also, the colour will darken with the number of coats applied.
Before you start finishing the steps, it is good to take care of the following aspects:
- Before finishing, keep the steps indoors for a few days to acclimatise. The moisture content of the wood must reach equilibrium with the humidity of the environment so that after finishing there is no significant movement of the wood leading to cracks in the varnish.
- the wood must be sanded thoroughly before applying the wood stain. This will give an even, stain-free stain. Sanding is done with sandpaper with a grain size of 150 to 180 or with a medium abrasive sponge.
- Sand after the first coat of varnish has dried to achieve a smooth surface. When staining, the wood grain lifts a little, and after varnish application, the grain becomes very rough and scratchy. Sand with 280 or 320 grit sandpaper or fine abrasive sponge. Do not sand after sanding as this spoils the uniformity of the colour.
- Even if the colour is oak, the appearance of the stairs at the end will be different from oak because of the specific pattern, the grain, which is different in fir than in oak.
I'm leaving some links, maybe they'll help you.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2019/04/18/greseli-din-exces-de-zel-la-slefuirea-manuala-a-lemnului/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/01/16/ce-este-si-de-ce-este-importanta-slefuirea-intre-straturi/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/12/06/colorarea-lemnului-recomandari-pentru-un-aspect-fara-pete/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2021/03/18/am-colorat-parchetul-cu-lazura-iar-lacul-aplicat-deasupra-s-a-exfoliat-unde-am-gresit-si-cum-pot-remedia/
Hello. I bought a flat that has laminated wooden windows, but they are sun faded at the base.Can you please tell me what materials to use to give them a new look? Thank you.
Hello!
I assume you're talking about the finish that the windows are coated with. In this case it means that products with no UV resistance were used and the finish should be removed and redone. I'm sure there are also small cracks in the film or even some of it has blown off in the area. If a paint was applied over it, the already damaged film would peel off and jump off with the new finish.
For finishing you can use oil-based varnishes or paints (if you want the wood to be fully coated) (Kreidezeit is a good brand) or water-based (ICASayerlack, Sirca, Renner, etc).
If the film still does not appear damaged, you can refresh the finish with maintenance oils or varnishes. You can find such products at companies selling professional window finishing products and DIY stores.
All the best!
Hello,
Please recommend a positive wood bath. I want to finish a wooden chest of drawers. Thanks in advance! All right!
Hello!
They would call Lomilux (ICA) to do it for me. They have dealerships and labs in many cities.
Or you can use a trick. First apply a thinned clear primer to control absorption into the wood, and after drying and sanding use a regular stain. The wood should stain positively.
Good luck!
Hello, what do you recommend to put on a wooden hut to protect it both outside and inside (moisture, decay, etc.)?
Good evening!
Against woodworm and other insects you can treat wood with Bochemit Anticari. It is a very effective solution with unlimited effect.
For protection I think the best option is oil-based lazines. Kreidezeit's pre-coloured lacquers are very resistant. If applied correctly and the area does not have a very aggressive climate (salty air, very long period with snow, etc), they can last 5-8 years.
You can also use Kreidezeit products (interior oils and waxes) for the interior.
All the best!
how could I fool around with more than tomatoes against rot?
Good evening!
First of all you should choose a more rot-resistant wood, acacia for example. In the link below you will find other examples of rot-resistant species.
Then the water should not puddle at the base. That is, a mound of earth should be made at the base to force the water to drain away.
You can protect your hair with oil. Since tomatoes will be in close proximity, use linseed oil, mineral oil or such natural products.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2019/06/12/cele-mai-rezistente-specii-de-lemn-la-exterior/
Hi Mihaela,
I discovered the magazine a few days ago and it's very interesting and I thank you for your initiative, I can say that I have more developed knowledge in the field, I'll see how it will be with practice... Besides praises I would like to ask you a question that I did not find an answer in the hundreds of comments. I am in the process of rehabilitating a 1971 trailer. The floor was made from some sort of laminated plywood, and the wall structure on wooden slats. My question is on the floor considering it is going to be exposed to moisture did I choose a laminated wood plywood what to treat it with for the moisture it will be subjected to? Also what treatment would be ok for the wallboards as they are not necessarily exposed to moisture?
Thank you so much for the valuable information you share with us!!! <3 <3 <3
Good evening!
Thanks for your appreciation! It's a team effort.
For the floor, you can go for two options, depending on your preference: floor oil or traffic-resistant varnish. Oil gives a natural look, has very good moisture resistance, but lower mechanical resistance. If I were to go for the latter, I would choose Kreidezeit's floor oil, it is more expensive but of good quality. If you want a higher mechanical resistance my advice is to choose a water based floor varnish. It applies easily, with a trowel, and the lack of solvents gets rid of the specific odor persistence in that rather small space. In this case I'd go for ICA's water-based floor varnish which you can find at Lomilux. They have stores, reps or agents in almost every city.
Whichever method is chosen, the plywood must be finished on both sides and all edges to block moisture from entering.
In the case of wall towels I would go more for a treatment against insects and mould. Bochemit products are very good quality, but you can also find insect and fungicide treatments at Lomilux.
Good luck!
Hello, I have read the full text but if it is possible could you please give me an opinion on polyurethane coatings?
The information about this type of wood is quite scarce, I understand that the resistance in time for the use of outdoor wood would be very good, but as appearance are recommended? Thanks in advance!
Hello!
Exterior polyurethane coatings/pregs are blends of alkyd and polyurethane resins (oil-based) or acrylic-polyurethane, water-based. They have very good outdoor strengths, but the strength depends on the correct application method. Compared to indoor polyurethane varnishes, outdoor varnishes have mechanical resistance and transparency reduced by the addition of UV absorbers and other materials that make them resistant to UV radiation. Hardness is also reduced because they need to be more elastic so that they do not crack when the wood varies in size with changes in outdoor humidity. Paints are tougher than varnishes, water-based paints generally tougher than solvent (oil) based paints.
All the best!
Thank you very much for your reply, it somehow enlightened me.
Nowadays marketing is very aggressive and does not give real information about a product (only sales count) and only someone with experience could make a correct recommendation.
One last piece of advice I would like to ask you: if in the future a new layer has to be applied on top of a polyurethane coating, could there be adhesion problems between the new and the old layer? If so, then I would have to re-evaluate which product I apply initially in order not to create avoidable situations.
Thank you and have a nice day!
Water-based ones for sure. In general, varnishes that cure by cross-linking (polymerisation) are no longer sensitive to products that come on top. In order to create adhesion, those fine curls left by the abrasive material on the surface of the varnish must appear.
Maintenance is very important with such finishes. You don't want to get to the stage where the lake starts to run off because then all the old coating has to be removed to restore the finish. Maintenance involves coating the finished surfaces with maintenance oils. Find such products at all manufacturers and distributors of finishing materials. Maintenance is done every 1-2 years. Application is done in late summer-early autumn so that the rains "wash off" the oil, not the varnish. Maintained this way, if the protection is done so that water does not reach the wood, the finish can last for decades.
All the best!
Great article. I have a question, how often do you have to grease the wood on your deck? And how often when using an impregnation?
Thanks for your appreciation!
If the decking wood is treated with oil, maintenance every 1-3 years, depending on the quality of the oil, greatly extends the life of the wood. Oiled wood has the appearance of wet wood with a distinctive satin sheen. When this sheen disappears and the wood takes on a dry appearance it is wood that needs maintenance.
If the wood is treated with exterior varnishes, an annual coating with a protective product (such products are also available in DIY stores), preferably in autumn before the cold season, prolongs the life of the finish.
If the wood used has been treated in an autoclave, its resistance to humidity is much better, but even in this case it must be protected because the sun will change its colour. Maintenance is the same as above.
All the best!
And the second question: If I put vinyl carpet on a wood deck, will the wood under the carpet change color?
No, it will not change colour because it is protected from the sun's rays. But be careful that the carpet does not retain water because it will cause the wood to mould and eventually rot.
Hello! I read all the comments but I didn't find an answer to my question. What could I apply to solid pine interior doors? I would like something that would bring out the wood grain but also provide some protection, if you think it is needed. Have a nice day!
Hello!
Fir wood is softer than other species (oak, beech, pine) and changes colour over time, turning yellow. As an interior door, it does not need superior protection from moisture or solar radiation. In this case it is important to protect against mechanical shocks.
I would stain the wood and finish it with a water-based varnish. The stain will bring out the natural pattern of the wood and fade the yellowing. The varnish will protect the surface from thermal shock and any splashes of water.
I don't recommend oil unless it is recommended for such coatings. Linseed oil, for example, also yellows over time and has very low mechanical shock protection.
All the best!
When you say you stain the wood, do you mean to apply the wood stain before varnishing or to apply the varnish directly? If I only apply varnish, does it still bring out the grain?
The varnish applied before varnishing.
The varnish is transparent, the grain will show through, but by staining it is highlighted more and masks the yellowing of the wood. You can use a light-coloured stain that does not change the actual colour of the wood very much. But by absorbing it differently, the design of the wood is highlighted.
I'm afraid of doing something stupid so I'll bother you with another question: Can I apply Oskar Silikon Lazur, then Oskar Aqua Lac in colorless? Or please recommend me something compatible. I wish you good health and keep doing what you are doing, I'm glad I discovered you!
From the data sheets that you can download from the web, it appears that this is not possible. Oskar Silikon Lazur is a solvent-based varnish that stains and protects wood, both inside and out. That is to say, it is both a varnish and a varnish.
Oskar Aqua Clear Lacquer is a water-based lacquer that can be used directly on wood or primer.
For the doors take a simple bath, not a lick. You can find wood stain in DIY stores in various colours. After drying completely, you can apply the above varnish or any other water-based clear varnish. If the varnish is completely wet, it doesn't matter if it was water-based or solvent-based. It will not influence the lacquer applied on top.
All the best!
I forgot to mention that the doors are new, nothing has been applied to them.
Hello, the article is ideal for anyone who has no idea between so many names as wood treatment solutions.
Again I need some advice.
I bought some solid wood double glazed windows. The quality is far superior to anything I've seen in laminated wood, but the way they are used the protective coating is a bit dusty.
From everything I've read in your articles I understand that you have no way of knowing exactly what was used.
From what I can tell from everything I've read around here it would be water-based lye. The wood grain shows through and it's f a little shiny, the sooner you can feel the sheen on your hand and when you look closely. The color is not dark, it looks a bit like oak...I think.
I assume that in windows and especially abroad, namely Austria where they were brought from, that they did not use anything else. If you know of other products that can be used please let me know as I want to repaint them. You still have to use lazura, right?
At first I thought I could put linseed oil on the inside of them to feel that shine, it would be nicer.
On the outside I wouldn't want to use water based varnish but I suppose I can't unless I sand all the wood well but it's very hard with varnish on it having that protective silicone edge.
Please if you can give me a good and more natural brand. I would have loved kreidezeit but from what I have read their products only go on wood not treated before with anything.
Thank you very much for a possible answer!
Good evening!
Glad you're back! 🙂
There are 2 possibilities: to be finished with water-based or oil-based system. I tend to think they are made with water-based materials. This is the system used in most window factories now.
If it looks good, with no scratches or areas where the colour is missing, it's not very difficult. You need to wash them to degrease (you have the link below with preparation for repainting), sand them lightly with a fine abrasive sponge or 280 or 320 grit paper and apply a coat of exterior varnish. You don't have to remove the old coat, just create the conditions for the new coat to adhere to the old one. It is best to use professional products. You can use ICA brand varnish - Lomilux distributor (you can find them in most big cities) or at distributors. They have a range of environmentally friendly products, Arborea (you have the link below). There are other professional brands as well - Sirca, Milesi, Sayerlack, Renner.
Good luck!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2020/10/29/ce-trebuie-sa-stii-daca-vrei-sa-revopsesti-mobila-sau-usile-de-lemn/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2020/06/25/rezistenta-de-peste-10-ani-pentru-ferestrele-din-lemn-finisate-cu-arborea-bio/
Good evening,
I have a small big problem. Today I sanded a window. Being a second, everyone has their own pattern :))) This one was the biggest and most massive. It has those ornate little wooden crosses over the glass...yikes, and now my hands are shaking a little from the vibration of the sander.
On the outside it had a thick paint I think oil like gloss and opaque. It was clear to see that over the original one which was definitely a lacquer (you could see it on the inside corners near the hardware) he put this black paint.
I had to sand with 60 grit sandpaper and then 180 grit sandpaper. Now I have a brand new wooden window. It's beautiful wood like new. The problem is that I don't think I can use water based varnish because from what I read in the ICA - Arborea classic specifications these varnishes are only painted horizontally. It says that after drying you can lift the product vertically. Then I understood that being water based it runs off badly and colours unevenly. The problem is that I can only do it vertically to the window.
My question....do I err in logic and can I hit it vertically without any problems?
I know I'm teasing you...I apologize but you're my specialist. A few months ago we moved to the country, an old but gorgeous house and I'm renovating it as best I can without a lot of money but quality.
Have a nice evening!
Hello!
Professional window finishing products such as those of the ICA, have a property called thixotropy. This manifests itself as an apparent viscosity, i.e. the varnish is much thicker and can be applied vertically, with little risk of spillage. These varnishes do not dilute more than 5% (extreme cases, 10%) in order not to lose this property. You have a link below where you will find full explanations on thixotropy.
In conclusion, you can use this varnish even if the windows are fitted. Starting from wood you need to use the complete system to have good resistance over time. This system includes impregnant, primer and varnish or just impregnant and 2 coats of varnish, depending on the manufacturer's recommendations.
But if you have reached clean wood you can also use the Kreidezeit coloured varnish as you originally wanted. For good resistance you should apply at least 2 coats and the varnish should be stained.
Good luck!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/01/24/ce-sunt-lacurile-tixotropice-si-cand-se-folosesc/
Hello. Please help me with a small project related to an old wardrobe (it was my grandmother's), painted with a few thin coats of green paint (2-3 coats). I thought of refurbishing it starting with dismantling, then I will sand each individual board with a vibratory sander, dust blowing and possibly wiping with a weak thinner, but further on I don't know what to apply. Apart from the option where I could choose the paint, I thought it would look good if I applied something transparent or semi-transparent so the shadows left by the sander would show. My request is for advice on application, thank you and have a nice day!
Hello!
Removing the old coat of paint can also be done with paint stripper or hot air blower (hair dryer), but I understand that you want the sanding marks to remain.
If you want a transparent finish you can use oil, wax or varnish. With oil and wax there is no film. In fact the film is very thin and the wood looks more natural. But its resistance to knocks, water, alcohol, more aggressive cleaning materials is lower. You can use linseed oil, tung oil, or products from a mixture of the two like Danish oil or Kreidezeit oils. There are many other oil variants on the market. Tung oil is the best and most beautiful of them. Apply min. 2 coats, with 24 hours drying time in between. At the end, for better protection, a coat of wood wax can be applied. The wax is applied after the oil has dried completely (3-5 days). At the end you have a link with recommendations for applying the oil.
Varnish protects better, but the film formed takes away from the natural appearance of the wood. You can use water-based varnish or nitrocellulose varnish, which are not difficult to apply. Working with water-based varnish is easier because it has no solvents. Nitrocellulose varnish, however, has a nicer look in my opinion. In this case, too, apply at least 2 coats of varnish, with drying in between. If you use water-based varnish, after drying the first coat, you will have to sand the surface because the water lifts the wood grain. Sanding the varnish aims to obtain a smooth surface and is done with 280 or 320 grit sandpaper or fine sanding sponges.
Before applying the oil or varnish the surface must be sanded with sandpaper with grain 258 or 180, max.220 or with medium abrasive sponges. Paper that is too fine prevents absorption into the wood and reduces adhesion.
I've included some other links below that I think you may find useful.
Good luck!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2019/04/17/7-reguli-de-respectat-la-finisarea-cu-ulei-a-lemnului/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2020/04/23/vopsirea-si-lacuirea-sfaturi-pentru-incepatori/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2019/04/18/greseli-din-exces-de-zel-la-slefuirea-manuala-a-lemnului/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/01/16/ce-este-si-de-ce-este-importanta-slefuirea-intre-straturi/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2021/07/01/am-aplicat-3-straturi-de-lac-dar-suprafata-continua-sa-fie-aspra-cum-sa-fac-ca-nu-mai-zgarie-sa-fie-fina/
Good evening,
I would like to ask for some advice, if possible, on decking wood treatments in the following context:
We built a covered gazebo from pine wood, planed, sanded, milled edges, carved supporting pillars. It will not rain in it, being covered and having generous arrow slits, but it will be subject to the effects of the sun, wind, atmospheric humidity.
I would like to keep as much as possible of the natural color of the wood, which, as I said, being planed and then sanded, is as finished as possible.
What recipe of solutions would you recommend from your point of view to keep the color of the wood as light as possible? Paneling mounted over sanded headers are in unison with beams, posts and other woodwork.
I would like to keep it as matte as possible, I personally don't like shiny and glossy surfaces.
Thank you!
Hello!
It can't stay as it is for two reasons. First, resinous woods such as fir darken over time and take on a yellowish-orange tint. Secondly, clear finishes are not resistant to sunlight, UV radiation. They must contain little pigment to stand the sun's rays.
In this case, you can use a semi-transparent matt finish, which doesn't shimmer, but darkens and evens out the wood a little.
I would use an oil-based varnish in a color specific to resinous woods - pine, Douglas fir, etc. To keep the color from being too dark, you can apply a clear oil primer, then the colored varnish.
Below are links that may be helpful.
Good luck!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/06/25/8-cele-mai-frecvente-intrebari-despre-protejarea-lemnului-la-exterior/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2022/05/19/ce-variante-ai-pentru-protejarea-lemnul-folosit-la-amenajarile-exterioare/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2024/03/05/finisarea-si-reconditionarea-mobilierului-de-exterior-cu-uleiurile-borma-wachs/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2022/08/04/cum-am-refinisat-cu-lazura-precolorata-kreidezeit-usile-exterioare-din-lemn-de-stejar-ale-bisericii-pitar-mos/