I have unfinished pine steps yet. What materials should I use to stain them oak and keep the grain visible?

I received such a question as a comment on one of the articles. Because it requires a more elaborate answer, I thought it might be useful to others who are facing wood staining problems and don't know what to choose from the countless products they find in physical and online wood staining shops. In the presentation the situation was referred to the fact that the wood - solid fir - had been drying outside for years, was raw, untreated and unpainted. The advice sought related to both staining and protecting the steps that were to be mounted on a low-traffic interior staircase.

What to stain wood with to keep the grain visible

The classic method of protecting wood so that the grain remains visible is with stain-based stains and clear varnishes. Dye-based varnishes are staining solutions made from thinners or water and soluble dyes. When applied directly to wood, they are absorbed and bring out its natural pattern. In contrast to these solutions, there are stains made with pigments. These do not dissolve in water or thinner, they remain in suspension, and when applied to wood they remain on the surface, staining it more evenly but less spectacularly, the grain being less visible. Semi-transparent staining with pigments is mainly used outdoors (lazuri) because the pigments not only even out the finish but also make it UV resistant. They are also used when the wood absorbs differently and stains or when the object, in this case the staircase, is made of different elements of wood and a normal stain would bring out the differences between them in an unpleasant way.

Dye-based dyes can be water-based or solvent-based. Water-based stains absorb better into the wood and highlight the grain better. The disadvantage is that absorbing water causes the wood grain to lift and more vigorous subsequent sanding will be needed to achieve a smooth surface to the touch. Solvent-based stains absorb less into the wood and give a duller appearance. The fibre does, however, lift much less. Regardless of the type of stain, if over-applied and followed by wiping with a cloth, the natural pattern of the wood will be marked.

In this case, an oak-coloured wood will be used. The treads are not fitted, so a solvent-based stain can be used, avoiding fibre lifting, without bringing the lingering smell of thinner into the house. Such woodstain can be found in DIY stores or those that carry wood finishing materials. There are several types of oak berry, so it's best to check the colour before using it. There is dark, light, medium, golden, antique oak, etc. Check the label and buy the one that has only stain and solvents. If you want the grain of the wood to stand out, don't buy woods that have pigments or significant additions of resins.

After applying and drying the wood, apply the first coat of varnish without sanding, even if the wood grain has risen and feels unpleasant. At this stage sanding can spoil the uniformity of colour. Sand after the first coat of varnish has dried. As it is a step, it is recommended to use a solvent or water-based parquet varnish. It can be applied with a trowel. If using solvent-based varnish, choose a solvent-resistant sponge trowel.

Staining can also be done with coloured varnish

For those who want to get away more easily without many layers and materials, there is the option of using an oak stained floor varnish. Be careful, varnish not paint, so that the wood grain remains visible. In general, commercially available coloured varnishes have hardnesses suitable for furniture. If you want a harder varnish, you can make it yourself. The varnish must be compatible with the varnish (water with water and solvent with solvent). For solvent-based varnishes, check compatibility beforehand. Some dyes may not be soluble in all the solvents in the varnish thinner and the colour may change.

To colour the lake add up to 10% bath. Even if the bath is very diluted, it is not good to add more, because the varnish will be diluted and the application will be more difficult (spillage will occur). It is better to make the colour lighter than desired and the final colour should result from the successive coats applied.

Application should be done carefully and evenly to avoid streaking. Also, the colour will darken with each coat applied. To avoid this effect, 1-2 coloured coats can be applied until the desired colour is reached, then continue with clear varnish.

Sanding, very important to achieve an even colouring and a pleasant surface to touch

The success of solid wood staining depends on proper sanding. Proper sanding before the application of the wood stain will cause the wood to absorb evenly, and staining will be uniform, without spots. If the wood is very rough, sand it successively with 2 different grits, e.g. first with a 120 grit paper, then 150 or first 150, then 180. After sanding, the wood is thoroughly sanded before applying the staining solution.

Equally important is sanding between coats of varnish. In addition to the smoothness of the surface, it also ensures good adhesion between coats of varnish. Sand after the first coat of varnish is completely dry. When staining, the wood grain lifts a little, and after varnishing, this raised grain becomes very hard and scratchy. To remove it and obtain a surface that is pleasant to the touch, sand the surface with 280 or 320 grit sandpaper or a fine abrasive sponge. Do not sand after the bath as this spoils the uniformity of the colour.

Even though the colour will be identical to oak, the final appearance of the coloured tree will not be oak

I must draw attention to something I have come across many times. Those who use oak, walnut or mahogany berry to stain softwood (spruce, pine, fir, larch), it is expected that the final wood will look like that of oak, nuc or mahon. It won't look the same because the natural pattern made by the fiber is different and the softwood has no pores. The lack of pores makes the appearance very different.

So, even if the wood used to stain the pine steps is oak, the stairs will not end up looking like oak but like yellowish-brown stained pine.

Wood acclimatisation indoors

And one more thing to watch out for when using wood flooring or treads that have been outside for a long time or stored in rooms with different humidity than indoors. Before finishing and installation, the wooden elements should be kept indoors for a few days to allow the humidity to reach the wood's moisture content. in balance with the humidity inside.This avoids the build-up of tension in the wood after finishing, which can cause the wood to move and the varnish to crack.

I hope you find the information useful. If you have any queries or questions, please leave them in the space below. I will certainly answer them.