DIY - Finishing Techniques

Tips for a beginner in wood finishing

The other day I was talking to someone who wanted to start finishing wood. He is going to start testing some products and came to tell me what stage he is at with the fittings. He asked my advice on some aspects of where the staining and varnishing will be done and the fixtures needed. I think this is a topic that may interest many, so here are some tips on the layout of the space and the materials that are strictly necessary.

tips
photo source: canadianwoodworking.com

It is good to know from the start that finishing can add value to the object, but it can also spoil it. Think of making a beautiful wardrobe from oakwhich everyone looks at with admiration, then you finish it. You get a wardrobe with petewith lake scumand the film scratches you when you run your hand over it. Do you think anyone else will notice the beauty of oak? I want to be very clear, I don't want to overstate the importance of lakes. Furniture existed long before they came along. In the country they are still making well glazed (very well sanded) tables and chairs and they are used without lacquer. But in order for the wood to be protected, to bring out its natural design through staining and varnishing, the right materials and equipment should be used and the necessary fittings should be in place.

tips
photo source: ecarpathian.com

A first tip is toseparate the space for mechanical processing from that for varnishing and drying. Dust from machining is the biggest enemy of finishing. The film will embed the dust and become rough. If a glossy finish is desired, even if it is not a mirror finish, this can only be achieved by polishing.

  • If you have the opportunity to make room for finishing in another building, do not hesitate. In time you will see that it was the best choice.

Sand the wood very well in white because the finish brings out all the flaws.

  • Set up a special place to do this, away from the finishing area. If you can also provide dust extraction in the area it would be the best investment.
  • Use the recommended grit for sanding wood (100, 120,..., max 220). Paper that is too fine fails to break up the wood grain and when you apply the wood stain or primer, the grain lifts and will be more difficult to remove. In addition, the surface and pores fill with very fine dust and staining or lack of adhesion can occur.
  • Don't hesitate to change the paper when it clogs or when the abrasive material starts to disappear from the paper. You think you're saving money, but you're only creating problems for yourself later. The sanding won't be done properly and defects will appear as soon as you start finishing.
tips
photo source: gentlereminders.weebly.com

If you will apply the materials by spraying,buy good guns.Don't think you're spending a lot of money on one gun and you're better off buying several with the same money. Cheap pistols don't always break down completely, so change them and you won't have any problems. They slowly, slowly break down - the nozzle gets bigger, the seals get wider, the compressed air intake changes over time - and you find you don't have the same quality finish as when you started. Leaks, broken or uneven film, stains on staining or other defects appear that you need to fix and will cost you. Knowing the advantages and disadvantages of the most commonly used spray systems will help you to know how to choose your spray gun appropriate.

  • If you also use water-based and solvent-based products, take 2 guns, one for each type of material. You'll save the cost by saving on the washing thinner and avoiding defects when switching from one system to another.
  • If you do finishes that involve applying ageing skids, get special guns. Apply a smaller amount and save money, because these materials are quite expensive.
tips
photo source: doityourself.com

Invest in a spray booth or absorbent wall. This will remove the varnish particles that remain in the air when spraying and fall on the piece, gassing the film. A gassed film scratches and has an unpleasant appearance.

tips
photo source: gfsboothblog.com

Arrange the place where the finished products will be dried.Put the scrapers with the rubber-coated arms (use a hose to size) to avoid scratching the piece.

  • If you use water-based products, make sure there is air circulation in the drying area. When drying these products, air movement is more important than temperature.
tips
photo source: lumberjocks.com

Use good finishing products.

  • Establish a relationship with a paint and varnish supplier for quality and continuity. Ask for technical data sheets and technologies products and follow the instructions.
  • When you order a new product you also say what you want to get out of it. It may be that the product you are thinking of is not the best and you will get a better recommendation.
  • If you are unsure about how to use a product or its quality, talk to the supplier immediately. It's easier and cheaper to prevent than to fix.

Don't disarm if it seems difficult.They all started that way, things are learned gradually.

  • Seek advice and help from your partners - suppliers of equipment, materials and accessories

I'm sure there are many other things I could think of, but I already think it's too much. But the subject can be filled in at any time. If in the meantime you find other useful tips for such a start, please write them down. I am sure they will be appreciated by everyone.

About the author

Mihaela Radu

Mihaela Radu is a chemical engineer but has a great passion for wood. She has been working in the field for more than 20 years, wood finishing being what defined her during this period. She gained experience working in a research institute, in her own company, as well as in a multinational. She wants to continuously share her experience with those who have the same passion - and more.

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    • In a few days the article about treating wood with sodium silicate will appear. Watch the magazine! 🙂

  • Handshake, do you know how to recondition an oak door that has started to peel? There are some cavities on it. What solutions to buy and how to do it?
    Thank you very much
    Chivu Iulian, Teleorman

    • Here the biggest problem is tooth decay. You should remove the finish coat with a stripper (I found it in DIY stores). Apply it, let it attack the coat (soften) and remove with a spackle. After complete removal sand with 150-180 grit paper and refinish.
      But before refinishing you must get rid of the curry. It's quite hard. There are such materials in online shops. Look for "solutions against wood decay". They will also give you treatment instructions. You have to repeat the treatment 2-3 times to be sure you have killed them. They are very hardy animals.
      Good luck!

  • Hello,
    Can you recommend me (from the offer of the partner company) some primer (possibly also paint) for the MDF edges to possibly fill some imperfections. I only have to paint MDF edges and it never comes out right... It doesn't matter what the base is as long as you can sand this primer easily before final painting.

    Thank you

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