I have advised several readers lately to use linseed oil or oil-based paint to protect wood, both inside and out. The reluctance with which some were taking the advice, the questions that followed afterwards, gave me the idea for this article. Although linseed oil used to be one of the most commonly used materials for finishing wood, the advent of synthetic varnishes and paints has meant that it is slowly but surely being almost forgotten. It's a pity, because it's a natural material that gives wood a great look. Don't get me wrong. I am not saying that synthetic varnishes and paints should no longer be used. It would also be difficult to say that after almost 20 years spent among these types of materials. There are certain characteristics of finished surfaces or certain effects that can only be achieved using synthetic varnishes and paints. But for certain finishes, the best choice is oil. In what follows I will try to argue this point.
Flax - food, clothing and protection since ancient times
Long before linseed oil was used to protect wood, the seeds were used for food and the plant was used to make fibers for clothing. Our ancestors saw that the seeds were good to eat and used them. We now know that flaxseed oil has the highest content of omega-3 fatty acids of all vegetable oils, which is why it continues to be used in food and beyond.
The linseed oil used for wood protection is obtained by pressing the seeds of mature and dried flax. For hundreds of years, natural linseed oil has been the most widely used material for protecting wood used indoors, outdoors or on the water. Later, paints based on oil and natural pigments were used to paint everything - wood, metal, walls in bathrooms or rooms. With the advent of alkyd paints, with properties very similar to oil-based paints, the latter were almost forgotten.
Lately, however, due to the fact that linseed oil is a natural product, non-toxic and environmentally friendly, it is making a comeback in wood finishing, both as a single product and in mixtures with other oils, resulting in products with much improved properties. Danish oil is such a product.
Uses of linseed oil
Fwood inlay for interior.
Like tung oilLinseed oil brings out the beauty and natural design of the wood, giving it a satin sheen. It does not form a film and is therefore very suitable for finishing rustic, natural-looking furniture. Essences such as nuc, oak, cherry, paltin are enhanced with oil.
It is very suitable for finishing bowls, jewelry boxes, decorative objects, knife or tool handles. Because it is a natural product it is used to finish wooden toys for children. But when you buy it, make sure that it is a natural product, as the oil is often used in mixtures with substances that are not exactly healthy for the body and the environment. One source of natural oils that can also be used in toys is Naturalpaint.
Finishing on the outside
It is used because it penetrates deep into the wood and protects it from moisture. Water simply runs off on wood protected with oil. Unfortunately it is not resistant to UV radiation so it turns yellow over time. Because it does not form a film, it allows the wood to "move" when there are variations in humidity in the air, without the risk of cracks. This is why I always recommend it when it comes to protecting fences, a pergolas and gazebos, sageacurilora or exterior woodwork. Precipitation washes off the surface layer over time, but refinishing is very simple. Simply apply another coat of oil when the wood loses its sheen and takes on a dry look.
Binder for pigments
Linseed oil is a very good pigment binder for oil-based paints. You can also make your own oil-based paints. How to work is described below.
Getting natural putties
When mixed with chalk it forms a very durable putty that can also be used for wall repairs. After drying it can be colored without problems.
Making linoleum
Linoleum is also made from linseed oil. This is not the kind you now see in the shops under that name. This is synthetic, PVC-based. Linoleum was made from a mixture of linseed oil, wood dust, cork granules and fillers.
Finishing with gold leaf
It is used for fixing gold leaf by those who restore old furniture or those who make luxury furniture.
It has many other uses - rust inhibitor, skin care, industrial lubricant - but debating them all would take too long.
What are the reasons why you should choose linseed oil
Here are a few reasons why you should consider linseed oil as an alternative for protecting and finishing wood:
- It brings out the design of the wood without filming, leaving it looking natural;
- It penetrates deep into the wood and makes it highly resistant to moisture and weathering;
- Let the wood naturally exchange moisture with the environment. Because there is no film, there are no cracks. While with film finishes you need to sand or even remove the film completely, with oil you simply apply another coat;
- The finish has a discreet, satin sheen;
- It's easy to use and maintenance is simple;
- It is a natural product that is environmentally and health-friendly;
- It colors the wood a beautiful golden color that turns amber over time;
- Not expensive;
- It can be used in blends with other oils or waxes to produce superior finishing products.
When not recommended
There are also finishes for which oil is not recommended.
- When high mechanical and physico-chemical resistances are desired. The oil is not resistant to knocks or scratching, only wax finishes are less resistant. However, when mixed with other natural products, it can also be used to finish wood floors. Of course, you won't get the resistance of polyurethane varnishes, but you won't see scratches in the film as you might with parquet varnishes;
- When you don't want the finish to change color over time. Linseed oil darkens with time, even when used indoors. Commercially available linseed oil-based products have added UV absorbers so the change is not so visible;
- When a gloss finish is desired. With linseed oil you can't get high gloss;
- When you want to finish MDF or similar products. Not recommended for such composite boards. It is still very good for solid wood or veneer.
What types of linseed oil are available. Which is best for protecting wood
Linseed oil in natureIt is quite rarely used because it has a very long drying time, up to 48 hours. To improve its drying it is subjected to various treatments.
Boiled or polymerised linseed oil is obtained by boiling for several days at a temperature of around 280ºC, in the absence of air. The product dries more quickly (between 8 and 12 hours) and does not yellow as much. The time-consuming and energy-intensive process makes such oil more expensive. But it is natural and easy to use.
But there are much cheaper but less natural options. These are Sicativated linseed oil. Faster drying is achieved by adding chemicals (cobalt or manganese derivatives).
How to finish with linseed oil. Steps of the process
To get a good result using linseed oil, follow these steps:
-
- Sand the wood surface with 120-grit sandpaper. Do not use paper that is too fine as fine dust prevents deep absorption. Dust before applying oil;
- Apply the first coat of oil with a rag, brush or brush. To penetrate the oil as deeply as possible, dilute it with white spirit (petrosin). Use a sealyzed or boiled oil;
- After 15-20 min, time needed for absorption, wipe off excess. If you don't remove it you risk getting a sticky surface;
- Leave to dry for 8 to 12 hours. To be safe, apply the next coat the next day;
- Apply 1-2 more coats of oil without thinning. Do not apply the next coat until the previous one is dry. Wipe off the excess each time;
- If you want the object to have a nice touch you can do some polishing of the surface with fine steel wool, but only after the oil has completely dried. To be on the safe side allow 2-3 days after applying the last coat.
- Maintenance is done by applying a coat of oil when the wood loses its sheen and becomes dry. Do not let the wood change color to gray (for exterior wood). You will never get the original color back.
- Furniture used indoors can be given a final coat of wax that can be polished to a higher gloss. Ceara makes the whole finish last longer.
- WARNING! After applying each coat immediately wash the tools used and place the cloths in a bowl of water. Dry the oil with heat release. If the grease also contains solvent or is outside in direct sunlight, it may self-ignite. The phenomenon is called self-combustion. Don't throw debris at the meeting. The easiest way is to cover it with water.
How you can make your own oil-based paints
I told you that you can make natural oil-based paints yourself. You need polymerized oil and natural pigments. The pigments must be a very fine powder. If they have clumps (small lumps), use a grinder (like a garlic grinder) to grind them.
Mix a small amount of oil with the pigment. The mixing must be done very thoroughly so that no lumps remain. To do this, spread the mixture on a flat surface (a stainless steel or glass table), spread the paste with a spatula or a wide-bladed knife on the straight surface and mix thoroughly.
Finally, dilute the resulting paste with the amount of oil needed to obtain, depending on your preference, dense or semi-transparent paint or pigmented oil (which you use as an exterior glaze).
Find both mineral pigments and various linseed-based oils at Naturalpaint. You can choose from a range of 24 natural pigments. You can also make paint by mixing several pigments. In addition, all the products on offer are natural. You can find a description of the composition of each product on the website.
Good luck!
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Can a varnish be applied to wood treated with linseed oil? I'm thinking of increasing scratch resistance.
Thank you.
Hello.
Alkyd varnish can be applied. The idea is to have the same base so that they are compatible and there is adhesion to the substrate.
All the best!
Don't forget to subscribe to the printed Wood Magazine! For only 58 lei/year you can find out news in the field, discover craft ideas or trade secrets. We remind you that the content in the printed magazine is different from the one on the website. Details in the link below.
Thank you!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/product/abonament-revista-din-lemn/
Hello!
I would need your opinion. I have started to make different round wood constructions (for the moment tables, benches and cradles) and I don't really know what would be the best way to protect the wood, so that in the future the customers don't have unpleasant surprises with what they bought from me.
From what I've read here on the page, let me understand that linseed oil is suitable, except that I'd be interested to add a varnish for their different shades. So one solution would be to give 2-3 coats of primer and one coat of varnish, or to skip the primer and give with linseed oil? Thanks!
Good evening.
The exterior finish with primer and varnish is more resistant over time. There are varnishes that are guaranteed for more than 10 years. Outdoor resistance depends on how exposed the objects are to sun and weather or how correctly the finish has been applied.
In the case of oil, the finish is more natural looking, it is moisture resistant, but it is not as durable over time because it is washed away by rain. Refinishing is much easier compared to a lacquer finish. If the varnish gets stained, the whole finish has to be removed by sanding and then the whole process starts again. In the case of oil it is sufficient to apply another coat, without further preparation.
I'm a fan of oil, especially with a rustic finish, as I understand you do (you use round wood). If customers want very good durability or varnish coating, you can use it, but not gloss varnish and not thick coat.
Good luck!
Linseed oil has its own shine when applied to a surface first treated with bone glue (aqueous solution). After the glue solution has dried, the surface is sanded, which shows small roughnesses (the 'lying' fibres of circular and other chisels etc.) and which lift when the warm bone glue solution is applied. Linseed oil gives a very shiny surface after drying. The term "linoxin" should be explained a little. The process is ancient, used in older furniture workshops.
Good evening,
First of all I would like to congratulate you for what you do!
I have decided to board up a cottage in the country, I will apply the Japanese method of flame burning, then treat with Sicativated linseed oil (Danke).
Whatever the resulting color I will love it 🙂 because I see the wood and beyond it is my work and my dream!
Question: Besides linseed oil (2 coats) with the "word of the year refresher" do I need to give anything else?
Thanks in advance!
Good evening.
Thanks for your appreciation!
Nothing more is needed. The choice to burn the wood is very good. That way the wood will be stained, but also protected. This will increase the strength of the wood on the outside. Two coats of oil are enough. Make sure that the oil is for outdoor use (lightly pigmented). Totally transparent linseed oil is not UV resistant.
Good luck!
Don't forget to subscribe to the printed Wood Magazine! For only 58 lei/year you can find out news in the field, discover craft ideas or trade secrets. We remind you that the content in the printed magazine is different from the one on the website. Details in the link below.
Thank you!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/product/abonament-revista-din-lemn/
Hello!
I would like to congratulate you for all you do, we needed a magazine that would provide us with information about the value of wood. I also have a request if you can help me with some information: I have a wooden cabin where the wood drying process has started (it is 10 years old) and I don't know what to fill the empty space between the planks. I have tried varnish+rumegus, aracite+rumegus to keep the colour of the varnish, but after a while they still crack. The cottage is made of pine planks, the drying process continues. I've seen that some log cabins use white putty but I haven't found what it's made of or where to buy it.
Thank you and I wish you much success!
Hello.
Thanks for your appreciation.
The upholsterers use mixtures of nitro varnish with wood dust (not sawdust) or aracite with wood dust for grouting. They do not put such putties on cracks or large holes, because cracks occur. In general putties shrink by drying and you should always put a larger amount on, then sand off the excess.
Wood putty is commercially available. It is more elastic and resists better. There are also epoxy putties, in 2 components (A+B), which are stronger and more elastic.
I can't figure out exactly what the cracks you're talking about are like, but I've seen log houses or wooden houses in Canada or northern Europe cover such cracks with string soaked in putty. The string is stuffed into the crack and then covered with putty. Being putty less the tensions are lower and it does not crack anymore.
I hope this has been helpful.
All the best!
Don't forget to subscribe to the printed Wood Magazine! For only 58 lei/year you can find out news in the field, discover craft ideas or trade secrets. We remind you that the content in the printed magazine is different from the one on the website. Details in the link below.
Thank you!
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Good evening
Congratulations for what you do!
I want to protect a 100m2 wooden panelled ceiling, which is the roof of an enclosed swimming pool (6m above the pool).
What solution do you recommend please?
With thanks,
Marius
Hello!
Thanks for your appreciation!
Being an enclosed pool the problems will be related to high and combined humidity (condensation and steam) and the presence of disinfectants (chlorine vapour). My guess is that oil would work best. Lacquers, even if supposed to last longer, would be quite quickly affected by the increased humidity and would flake off. With oil you have no such problems.
Linseed oil is good because it gets deep into the wood. The small molecule size helps it. But it is also "washed" faster by water. That's why I think a much better solution is to use a mixture of linseed oil and tung oil. Kreidezeit products are formulated this way, but you can make your own mixture. The linseed oil gets into the wood very well, and the tung oil forms a thin film on the surface that protects. If you also apply a wax to the entire oiled surface, the protection is even better.
The recommendation is to oil the panelling before installation. This way all parts are protected and water does not find its way in. Waxing can be done after installation.
Below are links that may be helpful. The Kreidezeit lazura, the one in the link, can also be used indoors. But there are also oils for indoors (solvent-free oil, for example)
Good luck!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2020/06/10/uleiul-de-tung-uleiul-pentru-lemn-care-face-pelicula-si-rezista-foarte-bine-la-umezeala/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2022/08/04/cum-am-refinisat-cu-lazura-precolorata-kreidezeit-usile-exterioare-din-lemn-de-stejar-ale-bisericii-pitar-mos/
Hi,
I have a cabinet made of resinous wood in its natural state, it has not been painted or lacquered. It is new. I would like to use Sadolin for wood protection. The question is in what order should they be used? Should Sadolin also be used for antiquing or just primer and varnish. The cabinet will stay inside. Of the varnishes can I use Sadolin extra or something else? I would like it to have a glossy finish.
What advice can you give me.
Thank you
Hello.
Anti-cavity protection is good for not having problems over time with cavities. But if the decay is already in the wood the solution does not help. If you think there is a risk of infestation with such insects then apply a first layer of protection.
After the antique protection apply primer and then varnish. Lacquer is always the final coat. It is the one that gives the gloss and the pleasant shine.
If you want it to have a gloss then use a varnish that says it is glossy. As far as I know, Sadolin is a good company, but I don't know if Sadolin extra is glossy varnish.
All the best!
Good evening,
I also have a question, maybe you have already answered it but I have not found anything like that.We recently bought a house on the living room walls are wooden panels that we do not want to remove them I just want to paint them.Please tell me what are the steps for a correct painting considering that the wood is natural without varnishing without any kind of treatment.I have received several advices but I don't really trust people who just give their opinion I discovered your site and I would really trust a specialist opinion.
Thank you kindly in advance.
Hello.
If the wood has never been treated with anything and it is panelling or another type of solid wood (not chipboard or moulded plywood) then you must first sand that wood. Sanding can be done with medium abrasive sponges. After sanding and sanding, if you want the wood to be coloured, apply a coat of wood stain in the desired colour. I advise you to use water-based wood stain to avoid strong solvent smell problems. After the bath the wood grain will rise a little and you will have to sand again after the first coat of primer to make the surface smooth again.
Leave the bath to dry for 24 hours. Then apply 1-2 coats of primer, with an hour between coats to allow the solvent (organic solvent or water) to evaporate a little. Sanding is done the next day, after the coats are completely dry.
Finally apply a coat of varnish.
I recommend water-based products, they are easier to handle. There are products that can be used as primer and varnish. They are usually called all-purpose varnish, but they don't have to be. Such products are applied in 2-3 coats, without the need for primer. After 2 coats and drying, sand
Use materials from DIY stores or specialty shops where you can ask someone how to use them. The ones from DIY stores have all the instructions on the label.
All the best!
TIP!!! for those who want to use and work with linseed oil:
Linseed oil combined with sawdust or wood microparticles and with a rag or brush can become VERY volatile under certain humidity and/or temperature conditions and can lead to spontaneous combustion.
That's why you need to be careful with the rags, gloves (especially the new gummed ones) and brushes you work with. Rags should always be laid flat and NOT rolled, gloves should always be laid flat (and preferably not used after they have been wrung out).
And before being thrown away, they MUST be left to rust in a shady and well ventilated and ventilated place. Just in case you don't want a fire.
Good evening!
I would need your opinion. I have started to make different constructions out of round wood (so far tables, benches and cradles) and I would like to know what is the best solution to protect the wood, so that in the future customers will not have unpleasant surprises.
From what I've read here, linseed oil would be best, but I would also need to varnish over, due to the multitude of shades that are available. A second option I think would be to prime and varnish, but I don't know which of these two options would be better. Can you help me? Thank you!
Good evening.
The exterior finish with primer and varnish is more resistant over time. There are varnishes that are guaranteed for more than 10 years. Outdoor resistance depends on how exposed the objects are to sun and weather or how correctly the finish has been applied.
In the case of oil, the finish is more natural looking, it is moisture resistant, but it is not as durable over time because it is washed away by rain. Refinishing is much easier compared to a lacquer finish. If the varnish gets stained, the whole finish has to be removed by sanding and then the whole process starts again. In the case of oil it is sufficient to apply another coat, without further preparation.
I'm a fan of oil, especially with a rustic finish, as I understand you do (you use round wood). If customers want very good durability or varnish coating, you can use it, but not gloss varnish and not thick coat.
Good luck!
Good evening! I have a wooden kitchen table, which is carved (I think for a long time, but we just discovered it). Would it help if we give it linseed oil, or do you advise another treatment? Thank you very much!
Good morning!
Linseed oil is of no use in carrion.
It seems easiest to me to take advantage of the coming winter and dine outside on cold days. Although it seems hard to believe, many have escaped with the help of acorns. It doesn't hurt to try. Petrosin (white spirit) is also useful, but the smell can be bothersome.
In the link below you have some "home" treatments for curry infestation.
Good luck!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/08/23/tratamente-naturale-impotriva-carilor/
Don't forget to subscribe to the printed Wood Magazine! For only 58 lei/year you can find out news in the field, discover craft ideas or trade secrets. We remind you that the content in the printed magazine is different from the one on the website. Details in the link below.
Thank you!https://revistadinlemn.ro/product/abonament-revista-din-lemn/
Hello, I have a house (cottage) made of pine bark on the outside and would like some help from you. The cottage is 10 years old and I have been using linseed oil on the outside with a trafalet. As the surface is stained, dusty and blackened in places I want to spray paint it with paint (not varnish) -1- What paint can I use? (in existing conditions without sanding and cleaning the surface) -2- I have some siccative oil at home, what can I mix it with and in what proportions to get a stain ? Thank you in advance, with esteem, V Ionescu.
Hello.
1. In order not to have problems with oil stains, you should use paints with white spirit (petrosin, turpentine) as thinner. Alkyd and oil-based paints are compatible. The problem may be lack of adhesion due to areas with a lot of dust build-up and black stains which may be mould and should be cleaned. It would be good if you could wash the walls beforehand with a pressure hose (or find a solution to create more pressure in the jet - narrowing the water outlet area). After washing, let it rinse and then apply the paint. Oil and water do not mix.
2. You can mix it with mineral pigments in powder form or that have already been oil-primed or oil-compatible synthetic resins. The ratio should not exceed 20%. A higher proportion will cause the paint to become chalky and "dry" on the surface (no oily appearance). Percentages up to 6-10% give a semi-transparent appearance. Be careful when mixing the powdered pigments with the oil as they form lumps just like flour.
All the best!
Don't forget to subscribe to the printed Wood Magazine! For only 58 lei/year you can find news from
field, you can discover craft ideas or secrets of the trade. We remind you that in the magazine
printed content is different from that on the website. Details in the link below.
Thank you!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/product/abonament-revista-din-lemn/
Hello,
I have an oak interior furniture, which I want to change a little bit, without affecting its natural design. After the application of the bath I would like to apply linseed oil. Are the two compatible?
Thank you!
Hello.
If the furniture is coated with varnish, no more oil can be applied. From what you say, it is a piece of furniture that you want to change the look of. If you mean the natural colour of the oak and the wood has not yet been coated with anything, then it is possible. First apply water or solvent based wood stain, let it dry, then apply 2-3 coats of oil, with 24 hours drying time in between and wiping off the excess.
All the best!
Hello, I would like your advice on how to treat a kitchen worktop without varnish and with as few chemicals as possible. The worktop is made of solid oak, is professionally sanded, and is 4cm thick. Can I use any linseed oil or are there only certain companies recommended? I don't want to use products containing metals.
Thank you
Hello!
The most suitable oil for the kitchen is mineral oil. It is also used for finishing bowls or other utensils that come into direct contact with food. You can also find it in pharmacies.
You can also use boiled linseed oil (careful, not spicy! The sodium-activated one contains chemicals that make it dry faster) or tung oil (look for pure oil, not mixed with other oils). There are also blends of natural oils produced by companies that guarantee the absence of chemicals (e.g. Kreidezeit).
In the article below you have some examples of natural oils.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2019/07/11/protejarea-vaselor-de-lemn-din-bucatarie-cu-materiale-netoxice/
Hello,
I have applied linseed oil to the arrow and then I intend to apply a colourless varnish.
How long should I leave the oil to dry, and if possible can you recommend a certain type of varnish (water-based or normal).. ???
Thank you,
Have a nice day.
Hello!
Only varnishes based on white spirit (petrosin, gas) or turpentine can be applied over oil. Water-based varnishes have no adhesion (normal repulsion between water and oil). In order to have protection against the sun's rays the varnish cannot be totally transparent but must be slightly coloured (remaining transparent).
But I don't understand why you have to varnish over oil, especially on the arrow where there is no need for increased protection from mechanical action (knocks, scratches). Oil is a very good protection against moisture and if a little tinted it resists UV radiation. If you have not used coloured oil you can apply a layer of coloured oil-based varnish on top after drying. The coloured varnish is transparent, but has a low pigment content that protects against UV rays.
Below are also two links about finishing the exterior. It may help you.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/08/03/12-reguli-simple-pentru-a-avea-constructii-din-lemn-rezistente-la-exterior/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/06/25/8-cele-mai-frecvente-intrebari-despre-protejarea-lemnului-la-exterior/
Hello, I am building a playground, and unfortunately the wood used is not very dry, being purchased directly from the warehouse. Is it recommended to apply linseed oil? I understand from some craftsmen that you can't apply varnish afterwards because it will peel off. From your previous posts I deduce that it is not advisable to apply primer and varnish if the wood is not dry. However the structure being heavily exposed, I have to protect it somehow. I would ask you to explain to me the coating steps in this case. Thank you.
Hello!
Only alkyd varnish or alkyd or oil-based paint can be applied over oil.
Now you can apply oil to the wood. The oil will allow moisture exchange between the wood and the atmosphere and over time the wood will dry out. To avoid cracking at the ends cover them with paraffin, diluted primer or an aracite solution.
The oil will wear off over time, it will be washed away by the weather. You can then finish with oil-based varnishes or solvent-based alkyd varnishes.
To prevent the wood from changing colour, use a lightly coloured oil with pigments (3-5%) or coloured varnish. Apply 1-coats. Now it will absorb less, having more water and you will have to reapply after max. one year.
All the best!
Thank you very much. The advice is very useful, effective and I will apply the method to any wooden structure in the future.
I have over 100 years old furniture that I want to refurbish. It has been waxed. I read somewhere, I don't remember where, that it is good to "hydrate" wood with oil. I started cleaning it and found that the cabinet doors were made of different woods. In this case it is not clear to me if the following steps are correct to reach the same final colour: cleaning, application of oil coat, coloured primer, wax. Please help me with the correct order and possibly some material recommendations. Thank you in advance! Congratulations for what you do and your professionalism!
Hello!
Furniture should be oiled when the initial finish was oiled. Over time, this has faded and needs another application. If you don't want to do the oil and wax finish you should not apply oil because the coloured primer (water or solvent based) will not adhere. Over oil you can also apply oil-based products (varnish, paint) or alkyd products.
I understand that you want to apply a coloured primer (probably to even out or change the colour), in which case the wax needs to be removed so that the next coats have adhesion. After complete removal you apply the coloured primer. If the furniture has been in a dry environment, the equilibrium humidity is low in the wood and it will absorb more material. Therefore the primer should be a little lighter in colour than desired. Achieve the colour by applying 2-3 thin coats of coloured primer. Finally, after the primer has dried, apply wax.
You can recondition using oil and wax. Being an old piece of furniture it would look great. There are also coloured oils if you want to even out or stain. After you have applied 2-3 coats of oil (depending on how much the wood absorbs), wiped off the excess oil (very important) and left 24 hours to dry, you can apply wax. After 3-4 hours, the wax can be polished with a soft cotton cloth. The furniture will get a very pleasant silky sheen.
I have worked with Kreidezeit waxes and oils and have been very pleased.
All the best!
Thank you very much!
hello, I would like to ask you if you mix lime paste with linseed oil you get a paste similar to stucco veneziano or you have to add something in this composition, thank you.
Hello
I have a spruce pergola that was primed and then coated with 2 coats of water based wood paint. Unfortunately, at the time I did not know about the properties of linseed oil. How could I now further protect the wood against moisture? Is there a colourless protective varnish that can be applied over the paint? I really like the look of the painted pergola.
Hello!
Companies selling professional wood varnishes and paints have such products. I believe they are also available in DIY stores. They are clear maintenance products based on synthetic oils and waxes. Apply with a cloth or sponge to the finished surface. Application is usually done in the fall, before the cold season, so that rain, wind and snow "eat" away at the coating.
Don't try it with linseed oil because it doesn't dry out and stays sticky. Only oils that dry or wax can be used.
All the best!
Hello, I read with great interest your articles and I would like some information: how can I better protect some wooden slabs that form, together with gravel, a walkway?
Hello!
Oil is, in my opinion, the best solution. Tung oil or synthetic oils are the best because they also make the film. Linseed oil does not dry in contact with air and in large quantities, it remains sticky on surfaces. With oil you will have a very good protection against moisture. The only drawback is that you will have to re-grind the tiles from time to time, because the oil is washed away by the rain. You can do it once a year or when the wood becomes dry.
All the best!
Thank you!
Hello.
If a single coat of spicy linseed oil was applied 2 months ago, Bochemit anti-caries treatment can now be applied or the wood will not absorb the solution at all. Thank you.
Hello!
Yes, you can apply the Bochemit treatment in the inticari. A single coat of oil is too little to saturate the wood, and the elapsed time has caused the wood to absorb deeply and thus release the pores.
All the best!
Hello!
I have a lot of question marks and could really use your help! I've been looking for opinions and suggestions for days now on the net and elsewhere and haven't found much so far!
Here's how it works:
Throughout the house the ceiling is made of apparent wood (pine cabinets and beams, the wood is new, nothing has been put on it)!
What would be best to hit this ceiling with?
What would be good to put on the ceiling in the bathroom where it will basically be very humid?
What would be the best value for money?
What would be the most time-resistant or healthiest option?
I've also thought about spraying the paint or whatever with the gun (it would get into the cracks better and go much faster), but I don't know if I can spray any paint/wood protection solution!
Thank you in advance!
Good evening!
Let's take them one by one.
- I would oil the beams and ceiling. It looks good, the finish is unobtrusive and highlights the natural grain and pattern of the wood. Linseed oil or oil blends such as Kreidezeit can be used. If you want to protect the wood against decay or fungi and mould, the treatment should be applied before the oil.
- Oil can also be used in the bathroom, it is very good against humidity. But you will have to refresh the finish from time to time (1-3 years, depending on the quality of the oil) because the steam will eat away at it. Better resistance you get with varnish. You need to use a hardening, steam resistant varnish. Otherwise it whitens or cracks. Refinishing is however more difficult with varnish. You will have to remove all the varnish and start again from the beginning.
- A quality oil (tung, Kreidezeit) is more expensive than lacquer, but consumption is lower. You can also use synthetic oils which are cheaper
- The most resistant over time is lacquer, the healthiest - natural oils: flax, tung, their mixture (Kreidezeit).
- You can apply opaque paint with a spray gun, the viscosity must be adjusted. Use thinners for varnishes, white spirit or turpentine oil for oil.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2020/06/10/uleiul-de-tung-uleiul-pentru-lemn-care-face-pelicula-si-rezista-foarte-bine-la-umezeala/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/06/15/optiuni-naturale-pentru-acoperirea-pardoselilor-din-lemn/
Hello
This is the second time I read your posts and share your ideas.
Today I decided to ask you for advice on the topic of flax oil and flax oil based paints. I would like to get a colour like RAL 7026 anthracite grey. What kind of substances should be (natural pigments side on the site we find them) purchased for this purpose?
Hello!
All I hope is that you read more articles that you agree with! 🙂
You need pigments for oils and waxes. You can use almost any type of pigment, but those made specifically for oil and wax blend much more easily. I've been working really well lately with Kreidezeit pigments. They mix very easily and you don't need all the work described in the article to not have lumps of pigment in the paint.
To get an anthracite colour you need black and white pigment, possibly blue to turn the colour a little. If the desired colour is dark, start with black which you open up with white. For light colours do the opposite.
Good luck!
I want to bring back to life a stable in Apuseni and transform it into a very welcoming open space but I also want to keep everything possible on the traditional line.The stable is covered with very old shingles over which were put eternit tiles because there was no one to preserve and repair the damage.I have ordered new shingles and the whole roof will be redone with small modifications.The shingle maker recommended me to boil the shingles for 7,8 minutes in linseed oil for a longer life.Please confirm that this process is ok so that I don't do something stupid.Thank you!!!
Hello!
Please help me: I have a fence in the country made of fencing (in an area with high humidity) and now I need to protect it. Please tell me if I understand correctly: I first apply a layer of linseed oil which protects the wood but is not so resistant to water.
My question is if after I apply the linseed oil I can apply a coat of wash, and here I was thinking of Sadolin's. Do I understand correctly? Or does the combination have to be linseed oil + paint?
Hello!
You can apply varnish if it is oil or alkyd based. I mean the solvent-based one, not the water-based one (Tinova is called, if I remember correctly).
The oil+paint combination can also be used, but is not mandatory.
All the best!
I want to bring back to life a stable in Apuseni and transform it into a very welcoming open space but I also want to keep everything possible on the traditional line.The stable is covered with very old shingles over which were put eternit tiles because there was no one to preserve and repair the damage.I have ordered new shingles and the whole roof will be redone with small modifications.The shingle maker recommended me to boil the shingles for 7,8 minutes in linseed oil for a longer life.Please confirm that this process is ok so that I don't do something stupid.Thank you!!!
Hello!
Boiling in linseed oil is an old method of protecting wood from moisture. The wood absorbs more because some of the water inside the wood is removed and the oil becomes more fluid and takes its place. This will saturate the wood in oil and make it more resistant to moisture. For shingles it is a good method of protection. For other wooden objects (windows, for example) it is not recommended because when it is very hot outside, the oil expands and starts to drip.
Linseed oil will not provide protection from UV radiation so over time the shingle will change colour.
All the best!
Hello,
Sincere thanks for your articles, which I read with great interest!
I have a question: instead of staining linseed oil, can you use a wood staining stick before applying the oil? If yes, what kind of bath would you recommend for resinous wood?
All the best,
Irina Ionita
Hello!
I'm glad you find our articles interesting.
Yes, you can initially apply a UV-resistant (outdoor) wood stain and the wood will be protected. The species (the wood) is not important, what is very important is that the wood stain is especially for outdoor use.
Linseed oil does not make a film and for this reason is not very resistant to the outside. Rain washes it away faster than other oils (tung oil, blends containing tung oil such as Danish oil, Kreidezeit products or synthetic products). Therefore, the time after which the finish has to be refinished is shorter (sometimes even 6 months). UV resistant wood stain will not let the wood change colour, but if the oil is removed, water quickly gets to the wood and washes the stain away.
All the best!
Thank you very much for your reply!
The wood (panelling) will be on the inside, I would like to apply a coat of berry not so much for protection but to give it some colour.
Do you also recommend the oil for interior door protection? Or is varnish preferable (as it protects better against mechanical action)?
I would like to take advantage of your kindness to ask you another question: where can Danish oil be found? (at the DIY stores I went to I was surprised to find that they only had linseed oil)
Once again, thank you!
All the better,
Irina Ionita
Good evening!
If it's indoors you can use any kind of wood stain.
Indeed, you can get better protection from mechanical action by using varnishes, but there are also oils with good resistance. It's more a matter of option than resistance, because doors are not subject to scratching or abrasion. And if the knocks are strong the wood will crack, no matter what it is finished with. Fir wood is quite soft and hard knocks leave visible marks.
Danish oil can be found on the net. There are Romanian sites that sell it.
As I told you last time, you can also use Kreidezeit oils. I worked with them and was very satisfied. They are blends of linseed oil and tung oil with very good resistances.
All the best!
Hello!
Very useful articles, congratulations!
Since I discovered them while trying to find a solution to give a whitish tint to the linseed oil with which I want to treat the outdoor wood deck, please recommend me if it is possible to find a solution to colour the boiled and spiked oil so as to make the wood lighter in colour. It is purely for aesthetic reasons, the rest of the decoration is based on oskar aqua varnish which gives a slightly yellowish white shade.
Thank you in advance!
Hello!
Thanks for your appreciation!
Pigment can be added to the boiled and spiked linseed oil. If you add 3-5% white pigment you get a whitish tint without losing the transparency of the oil.
I understand you want to coat the oil with water-based varnish. Water-based varnishes do not go over oil. In the oskar aqua varnish product data sheet, which you can download from the net, it states that the wood must be clean and degreased. Over oil you can use a solvent-based alkyd varnish for exterior use. Or you can apply an exterior resistant varnish in the desired colour and use oskar aqua varnish after drying.
All the best!
Hello,
I bought heat-treated pine flooring and gave it 2 coats of linseed oil. Can I use something to protect it from UV rays? Is there a surface stiffening solution?
Sincerely,
Calin
Hello!
You can apply an oil-based or solvent-based exterior varnish or lacquer (those that dilute with white spirit). It's good to look for deck products, they will also provide mechanical strength to your floors.
Linseed oil is removed fairly quickly by precipitation. After 2-3 months you can apply any type of exterior varnish.
If by stiffening you mean something other than mechanical strength, please give me more details.
All the best!
Hello, great article! I would like to ask you, for a surface already treated with classic varnish, is it ok to be given over with linseed oil for protection? And one more thing, maybe write an article about mixing different paints, varnishes and wood protection, possibly how they can be different. I've seen in multiple rows people who forgot what they or the workmen gave it with, then bought another type of paint and applied it, etc. Afterwards they thought they could mix anything anyway... Thanks!
Hello!
Thanks for your appreciation!
No, because linseed oil does not dry out and remains sticky. It should be applied to the wood, it absorbs and protects from the inside. That is why it is always recommended to wipe off the excess. Other types of oil (tung oil, synthetic) can be applied. These are products used to protect the finish against weathering. These types of protection are applied in autumn so that the cold season weather "eats" the oil, not the varnish.
Very good suggestion for the article. I've had articles like this before, but one with the theme can't mix any anyway yet.
All the best!
Later, but I wrote it. 🙂
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2021/09/02/ulei-ceara-shellac-sau-lac-cum-afli-ce-este-pe-suprafata-mobilierului-si-cu-ce-il-poti-refinisa/
Hello!
I have an exterior pine door that had only linseed oil applied over it more than 10 years ago. I want to apply a fresh coat of spackled linseed oil and am looking for advice on dusting and surface preparation.
Thank you.
Good evening!
Simply wash it with water and liquid dishwashing liquid (not the abrasive kind). Wash with a soaked and wiped cloth. The water should not be standing still. Immediately after washing wipe the surface with a soft, clean cotton cloth. Repeat if cleaning is not complete on the first attempt. Allow to dry for at least 24 hours before applying linseed oil. If the wood grain has lifted, sand the surface with 180, max.220 sandpaper or medium abrasive sponge.
Below is a link where surface cleaning before refinishing is described in detail.
Good luck!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2020/10/29/ce-trebuie-sa-stii-daca-vrei-sa-revopsesti-mobila-sau-usile-de-lemn/
Kiss me!
Thanks for the detailed advice and the link (I missed it even though I searched several articles in the magazine).
Good times!
Hello. I read with interest your article and implicitly the comments on it, and the answers you provided led me to present a situation: I inherited a washbasin that I intend to use as a piece of furniture in the village house. So, I dusted it, then degreased it with household soap and warm water and then electrically sanded it with 120 gr. sandpaper, hoping to get rid of the dirt impregnated in it. After removing the dust after sanding, I applied a coat of linseed oil. Honestly, I'm not happy with the result after sanding (I didn't touch the patterned areas) and would try to do more but first I should degrease the surface. How to proceed concretely for this operation? I would have been more explicit if I could have posted the picture with the enamel. Thanks in advance!
Good evening!
You should wipe the surface with white spirit (petrosin, gas) or turpentine, they are oil diluents. Then sand the still wet surface with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper. Wipe again after sanding and if it is OK, sand with a finer grit (120 or 150). You can repeat the operation until you get the desired result.
You can send me photos on mihaela.radu@cesbrands.ro.
Perhaps the link below will help.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/06/13/cum-sa-aduci-la-viata-cufarul-vechi-din-pod/
Hello,
What do you recommend for protecting pine paneling on the inside and pine beam walls on the outside?
Thank you
Hello!
For interior projection you can apply 1-2 coats of linseed oil and finally a coat of wax. The wax will give extra protection. With oil and wax the wood will have a natural look.
For exterior use tung oil or oil-based lacquers. Linseed oil alone, without being combined with other oils, is not outdoor resistant. For example, Kreidezeit lazines - a natural variant for outdoors - are a blend of linseed and tung oils.
There is, of course, also the possibility to use varnishes, both for indoor and outdoor protection. The comment being on this article I suspect you want to protect wood with oils.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2020/06/10/uleiul-de-tung-uleiul-pentru-lemn-care-face-pelicula-si-rezista-foarte-bine-la-umezeala/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2019/04/17/7-reguli-de-respectat-la-finisarea-cu-ulei-a-lemnului/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/06/25/8-cele-mai-frecvente-intrebari-despre-protejarea-lemnului-la-exterior/
Hello
Congratulations for passione and studying.
Can you recommend an effective wood preservative for the exterior of a curb, wall, shingle, fence.
Which linseed oil could I use?
Raw, boiled, spicy?
Thank you in advance
Hello!
Thanks for your appreciation!
Boiled or spiced linseed oil. Raw linseed oil dries very slowly. To reduce the time it is treated by boiling at high temperature or by adding siccatives. The boiled linseed oil variant is natural, without chemicals.
Linseed oil is not the most resistant outdoor oil. Its small molecule size makes it easy for water to remove. That's why it's necessary to refinish more often, even every 6 months if the season is rainy and the wood sits directly in the rain. Tung oil is the most resistant oil, and blends of the two oils, such as Danish oil or Kreidezeit oil, are also very resistant.
Below is a link to the 3 oil variants.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2020/06/10/uleiul-de-tung-uleiul-pentru-lemn-care-face-pelicula-si-rezista-foarte-bine-la-umezeala/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2020/07/02/lazuri-kreidezeit-pe-baza-de-ulei-pentru-finisaj-exterior-natural-si-rezistent/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/01/15/danish-oil-ulei-finisare-lemn/
Hello! I'm glad I found your articles, I read very carefully everything you wrote and all the replies to the comments. I understand that it's very hard to give a color to the flax oil treatment. I have a railing outside on the balcony with freshly sanded wood, I would like to give it a walnut color using a waxed+greased impregnant . would you recommend something else ? Or should i reverse grunt-impregnant ? I've also heard recommendations for a lacquer ? What do you recommend in the end
? Thank you in advance for your reply
Linseed oil can be coloured with pigments, but it is difficult to achieve the desired colour because a mixture of pigments is needed. And linseed oil alone is not very resistant to the outside. Having small molecule size it is washed away relatively quickly by rain and sometimes needs to be refinished even after only 6 months.
I would use Kreodezeit walnut-coloured lazura. Kreidezeit lacquers are based on natural oils - a mixture of linseed oil and tung oil. The linseed oil gets into the wood a lot and the tung oil protects it on the surface so the wood is more protected and stronger.
I leave below the link to the linseed oil article, the one about kreidezeit lazuli and an article about what materials can be used to protect wood that stands outside.
Good luck!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2020/06/10/uleiul-de-tung-uleiul-pentru-lemn-care-face-pelicula-si-rezista-foarte-bine-la-umezeala/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2020/07/02/lazuri-kreidezeit-pe-baza-de-ulei-pentru-finisaj-exterior-natural-si-rezistent/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2022/05/19/ce-variante-ai-pentru-protejarea-lemnul-folosit-la-amenajarile-exterioare/?fbclid=IwAR1pNcYjN65mEZiuSRdskoBY7XfoMH23nMEWEZ2Qp-lhGcF2CwJ7yXNpx60
Hello! I'm glad I found and really inspired by your blog. I read all the comments I found, but I didn't find the answer to my question, I understand it's very hard to get a walnut color from linseed oil. I have a balcony railing outside. So I decided to go with water based waxed impregnator + primer. Do you think it's the right choice?
Hello!
I'm glad you found us too!
You can also use the waxed primer without primer. Apply 2 coats. However, the resistance over time is less with this type of product. If the balustrade is not protected at all (no awning on the balcony) you may need annual maintenance, even sooner if it is an area where it rains often.
A more resistant option is oil-based varnish. Kreidezeit lacquers, for example, are hard-wearing, look good and are also available in walnut colour.