How to make your own wax for furniture care or wood protection

Although there are many types of wax on the market, many people want to make their own. I always find requests for wax recipes on profile groups or in comments received on magazine channels. Some want to use it for furniture maintenance, others directly on wood to protect and beautify it. There is no standard recipe for these types of wax, but there are a few common elements that we'll discover right away.

Basic elements of a wax recipe

Furniture or wood wax should be easy to apply, have a pleasant, long-lasting smell and appearance, and protect the surfaces to which it is applied. This is why the different types of skiesNatural or synthetic paints should be mixed with materials that make them flow so they can be easily applied with a cloth or brush. For fluidisation use oils and/or solvents. In order for the mixing to be done very well, the wax is first brought to a liquid phase by heating and then the other components are added, mixing gently until completely homogenised. Heating is done carefully, on a water bath, because the products are flammable.

The ratio of the two components varies depending on how hard or soft we want the wax to be. A harder wax allows for polishing and a glossy surface, while a softer wax penetrates the wood better and protects it. Turpentine is most often used as a solvent, because it is natural and has a pleasant smell, or white spirit (less often because of its strong smell).

In addition to the two basic elements, auxiliary materials can be added, which are not mandatory, but which improve the smell, add colour or increase the life of the wax. In the case of waxes used for furniture maintenance it is recommended to add a few drops of essential oils. The most commonly used are lavender, citrus or vanilla oils. This will give you a product that will also help keep your home smelling nice. It is also common in maintenance waxes to add antioxidants to prevent oxidation (rancidity) of the oils (some natural oils can oxidise over time). A few drops of eGrapefruit seed extract or vitamin E.

Sometimes we want the wax to add colour to the object it is applied to. We recommend staining in liquid phase with liquid dyes compatible with skies and oils. If concentrated dyes add 1-2 drops and mix to see the staining power. Then add the required amount to reach the desired colour. Stir very well until an even colour is achieved throughout the mass.

Wax types and influence on the mixture

The most commonly used waxes are beeswax, carnauba wax and paraffin wax. Beeswax is the most used because it is easier to find, natural and cheaper. It can be bought commercially or directly from the producer. The commercial one is already cleaned and can be found under the firm of calup, granules or flakes. Beeswax from the manufacturer may contain water and impurities. It is therefore recommended to melt it separately from the other components (melting temperature 62-64°C) and then allow it to harden again. Any impurities will collect on the surface and water will accumulate at the bottom of the pot. The re-hardened wax can be washed, wiped and scraped on the surface to remove the layer of impurities.

Carnauba wax is secreted by the leaves of a Brazilian palm tree - Copernica Corifera - as protection against excess water and the strong sun that can lead to dehydration. Carnauba wax is harder than beeswax and has a higher melting temperature (82-86°C). It is found as emulsion, granules or flakes. Because of its high hardness it is widely used for polishing products in the automotive industry. In wax blends it is what gives the film hardness and very high moisture resistance. Its influence is very high, which is why it is used in lower percentages. A very small increase in carnauba wax content leads to significant changes in the final properties of furniture wax.

Paraffin is a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons obtained from petroleum processing, very similar to wax. Refined paraffin is white, unrefined paraffin yellow. The composition of paraffin varies widely, so the melting temperature is between 55 and 80°C. It is used in many areas, from textiles and cosmetics to the food industry and protecting transported fruit from dehydration. It is a common alternative to natural products and is more economical. Many commercial waxes contain paraffin. Vaseline used to grease tools or devices is also paraffin-based.

Oils that can be used in recipes

The range of oils that can be used in wax recipes is very wide. The classic wood oils can be used, i.e. linseed oil and the tung, mineral oil or vegetable oils such as olive, coconut, almond, walnut, jojoba.

Linseed oil and the tung are mainly used in mixtures that are used directly on wood. They 'nourish' and protect the wood giving it superior resistance to water and mechanical action (especially tung oil).

Mineral oil is mainly used for its safety. The oil does not oxidise and does not contain any dangerous substances and can be used to protect wooden dishes in the kitchen. Mixed with waxes it can also be used to maintain furniture or protect wood.

Vegetable oils are mainly used to obtain waxes for the protection and maintenance of furniture. The most commonly used is olive oil. It is recommended to obtain smaller quantities of wax so that it does not keep for a long time and there is no danger of oxidation. These are waxes in which various essential oils are added for scent and which, put in nice-looking jars with a tight seal, can make a great gift.

Examples of recipes

As I said at the beginning, there are many wax recipes. I've picked out a few of them, but enthusiasts can start from this base and make their own blends. The satisfaction will be much greater.

1. Put equal amounts of beeswax and paraffin and melt together on a water bath. Take one part of the liquid mixture and mix with 1,5 parts of vegetable oil, also on a water bath, stirring gently until smooth. Turn off the heat, allow to cool slightly and add a few drops of essential oil. Pour into a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid or a sturdy plastic container.

2. Put 150 g of crumbled wax and 600 g of olive oil together in a pot that can be placed on a water bath. Keep on the heat until the wax has completely melted, stirring gently. Finally, when the heat has been turned off and the mixture has cooled slightly, add the essential oil (10 drops) and the antioxidant (30 drops). Pour into a lidded bowl.

3. Beeswax melts. Take 1/4 part beeswax and mix with 3/4 part mineral oil. Mix slowly on a water bath. After complete mixing add the essential oil and put in the jar.

4. Mix 125 g carnauba wax flakes with 500 g beeswax and 1 l turpentine. Stir over a water bath until completely mixed. Dye may be added to obtain coloured wax. Decreasing the amount of turpentine will result in a thicker wax and increasing the amount of carnauba wax will result in a harder wax.

5. Mix 2 parts liquid wax (beeswax or bee and carnauba mixture) with 3 parts boiled linseed oil. To obtain a more fluid, gel-like mixture, turpentine can be added.

6. Mix 1/3 part beeswax with 1/3 part carnauba wax and 1 part tung oil on a water bath over a fire. This wax is very good for protecting wooden objects subject to mechanical action or abrasion (floors).

7. To obtain a thicker wax, mix 2 parts beeswax with 1 part boiled linseed oil. If you want a softer wax, mix 2 parts beeswax with 2 parts boiled linseed oil and 1 part white spirit.

Regardless of the recipe, the mixture should be allowed to cool in the packaging before use. Complete cooling takes 3-4 hours, but it's best to use it the next day. Application is done with a cloth or brush. If the wax is harder, a brush with short bristles is more suitable. It is best applied with a pad like the one for applying shellac.

I hope you find the information interesting and use it when you decide to make your own wax for furniture and wood protection. If you have any further questions or queries, please leave them in the space below. I will certainly answer you.