Many of our followers ask questions about the topics we cover. The questions are related to their own experiences or the need for guidance when starting a new project. The other day I was answering a question about protecting wood outdoors and found that respective article has been over a hundred comments for some time. There are questions about the choice of varnish or varnish types for wood, the protection a wooden fence or deck needs, protecting or refinishing windows and exterior doors or fences. I found that there are many with the same problems and thought it best to collect them in one place to be of use to others. So, here are the most frequently asked questions about protecting and finishing wood exteriors.
1. What is the best choice for protecting wooden fence?
I find that the best choices for a fence are waxed or oil-based lazings. Fencing is a construction that stands continually under rain and sun. I think it should have a simple, unobtrusive finish with the main purpose of protecting the wood. Oil and wax protect the wood from the elements by allowing the wood to naturally exchange moisture with the environment. They do not film, so there is no risk of the finish cracking if the wood changes dimensionally.
The lakes should contain a small amount of pigment (they are usually semi-transparent). Transparency does not provide protection against UV radiation. To give you an idea there is a difference between plain glasses and those with sun protection. The pigments in the lenses get in the way of the sun's rays and prevent them from reaching the wood.
These lacquers are less durable than varnishes, but maintenance and refinishing is much easier. Movement of the wood when the outside humidity changes leads to cracks in the film and to the film peeling over time. Refinishing means sanding off the remaining film and repainting.
The lacquers are gradually washed away by the rains. Over time the wood begins to look dry, it no longer has that satiny sheen of wax or oil. This is the moment that tells you that you need to apply another coat of varnish. No sanding or other preparatory work.
2. If the fence is already painted can I still protect it with oil?
The oil is given as a first coat so that it gets into the wood as well as possible and protects it from moisture. Once painted, the wood is coated and can no longer absorb oil. The oil given over the coat of paint will protect it for a short time, but it will be "washed off" by the rains quite quickly.
3. Which lasts longer: lacquers, varnishes or paints?
Exterior paints provide the best protection over time. The high amount of pigments inside protects very well against UV radiation. Next come varnishes, which are more effective the more matt (less glossy) they are. Glossy lacquers are the least effective for the same reason as clear lacquers. Lacquers become matt because substances - matting agents - are added, which are in the form of granules. These granules settle in the sun's rays like pigments, protecting the wood. However, very matt varnishes, below 5 gloss, are not effective because they become porous due to the large amount of glazing agent contained.
The lakes are the least resistant. I'm talking about simple lacquers, not those combined with 2-in-1 or 3-in-1 lacquer. However, for simple constructions that stand continuously in the sun or rain, such as fences, pergolas, gazebos Oil or wax-based polishes are the best choices.
In all the above cases the comparison is made between products of the same brand, not comparing different brands (e.g. paint from one brand with varnish from another).
4. I have protected the fence with oil, but I want to paint it. What kind of paint can I use?
If the oil has been applied for a short time, oil-based paints or alkyd paints can be applied. If the oil has been applied for a long time and the wood has a dry appearance and has started to change colour slightly, any kind of paint can be used provided it is for exterior use.
5. What can I use to protect the wood without changing its natural colour?
Most outdoor varnishes have a low pigment content to increase its resistance to UV radiation. This causes the natural wood shade to turn slightly yellow (honey). It's hard to find a varnish that doesn't change colour at all, nor is it recommended.
Protecting with oil (linseed oil) also changes the colour slightly (oiled wood appearance, slightly yellowish). Plain oil only protects against moisture. For sun protection it needs a small amount of pigment.
6. My wooden windows have faded. What should I do?
If fading has occurred in a fairly short time (1-2 years), it means that an outdoor resistant dye has not been used. There are special outdoor stains that are resistant to aggressive sunlight.
Unfortunately, in this case the only solution is to refinish. Remove all the finish by sanding, then refinish using exterior-resistant products.
Another solution is painting. In this case the natural wood grain will no longer be visible, but the finish does not need to be completely removed. It must first be cleaned of dirt accumulated over time. The window frames are washed with water and detergent and then wiped. Then sand lightly and apply a coat of paint. Check beforehand, in a less visible place, whether the old finish is compatible with the paint. Apply paint over the old coat and allow to dry. If it does not crack, slip or peel then the paint is good and can be used.
7. How do I protect wood against insects, fungi and mould?
There are special substances for such treatment. They are applied as a first coat to get as deep as possible into the wood. They are generally water-soluble substances and are sold as concentrates to be diluted with water depending on the type of wood. For hard, harder absorbing wood (oak), more concentrated substances are used. For softer wood, such as resinous wood (fir, spruce, pine), the substances are more diluted.
After the preservative has been applied to the wood, it is allowed to dry and then can be protected with lacquers, varnishes or paints.
There are also stain solutions or outdoor lazines that also contain insect repellents (3 in 1). However, these are increasingly rare because they are special diet products. Check that the label lists the types of substances and their effect.
8. I've seen several types of outdoor products: primer, stain, varnish, varnish. What are they and in what order are they applied?
A typical clear wood finishing cycle meansberry(the solution that stains the wood), grund (clear lacquer-like solution that adheres to wood and is easy to sand) and lake (also transparent, with surface properties: scratch resistance, pleasant tint, gloss, etc.).Lazura is a kind of coloured outdoor varnish.
If the wood is to be stained in depth, apply a first coat of exterior stain. After drying apply primer (1-2 coats) and varnish. This is the finish that best highlights the natural pattern of the wood.
If you do not want to highlight the wood design, you can use only varnish or primer and varnish. You can apply 2-3 successive coats of varnish, the colour darkening with each coat, or 1-2 coats of clear primer and a final coat of varnish.
Complete the list!
These are the questions most often asked. There are others, but they are more related to personal projects. If you think there are other questions that can be generalised, please add them to the comments. I will reply and then they will be added to this list.
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Hello,
I would like to know how I can treat a wood with decay, in the old house in the country, some furniture or beams have decay, I do not want to give them up and I could not afford to change the attic, I would like to treat it with something to save it from spreading to all the wood in the house. can you help me? Thanks in advance.
Hello.
It is the high humidity that favours the infestation of curry. The curry is very resistant and you will have to "work" a little to get rid of it. After the treatment you will have to check if the larvae inside have died, because it is very possible that some of them will survive the attack and if they have the conditions to grow they will reinfest the wood in the house.
Treatment chemicals sold by several companies. You can find them by searching the web for "antique treatment".
In the links below are 2 articles where you will discover several treatments, some of them less aggressive for humans.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/08/23/tratamente-naturale-impotriva-carilor/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/08/08/despre-cari-motivul-aparitiei-ciclul-de-viata-preventie-tratamente/
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Hello,
Can industrial oil (e.g. hydraulic, recovered, clean) be used to protect a new pine fence? What would be the difference compared to using saponified linseed oil?
Thank you,
Hello!
Sicativated oil is linseed oil with added drying chemicals. You should check the drying time of your oil. Apply with a brush to a piece of wood and see how long it takes to dry. If it stays sticky for several days it may not be what you need. If the surface is dry in 24 hours, use it again. With it you will get water protection. To have sun protection (UV radiation) it should be tinted (min.5% pigment). You can add pigment and the sun rays will be deflected. An amount of 5-7% leaves the oil transparent, colouring it slightly. If you don't add pigment, the oil will protect the wood from moisture without any problems, but the wood will change colour over time, slowly turning grey.
Because the oil is washed off by rain, you should re-spray the finish (apply another coat of oil) every 2 years max (sometimes sooner). The signal is when the wood gets a dry look (with oil it is more alive, it looks wet). To extend this time as long as possible, apply several coats of oil, with a 24-hour drying time between them, so that the wood absorbs as much as possible.
All the best!
HOW OFTEN SHOULD THE WOOD BE TREATED AGAIN (FIREPROOFING, WATER REPELLENT, SANITIZING)?
Hello!
Fireproofing, water repellent and sanitizing treatments done to the structural wood of the house, the wood that does not weather, does not need rebuilding.
Treatments for exterior wood should be resumed when they no longer work, i.e. when the film has cracked or the finish has been washed off by rain. In this case the time depends on the quality of the materials used. It can be from 2 years to 8-10 years.
Wood that has been impregnated in the oven, under pressure or at high temperatures, may only need superficial protection against moisture and solar radiation.
All the best!
Hello.
Could you please recommend a brand and/or product of treatment for outdoor wood. I have read several of your articles and saw that you recommend oil based treatments, but what I have seen in the shops is water based or solvent based. I need to treat the wood on a covered deck, but the deck posts are exposed (plywood). I'm hoping Sadolin, I've read that they would be good..but not knowing much in the field (to at all), it would help me a lot your recommendation.
Thank you very much!
Hello!
Sadolin is a good brand, one of the best on the market, with a long history in the production of these materials. One of the solvent-based products (Tinova, as far as I remember) has one of the longest warranty periods on the market.
Indeed, I prefer oil-based products for outdoors because they protect very well from moisture and do not form a film which makes refinishing much easier. Kreidezeit's oil-based lacquers and paints are more expensive, but natural and of good quality.
All the best!
Hello,
Thank you very much for your answer! I have ordered a box of KREIDEZEIT COLORED WOOD STAIN (light oak shade) to test (I will eventually need 30L). I also tested Sadolin (tinova and extra - same light oak shade, but the result is very different in terms of colour - one is orange and one grey, although on the pallet they are the same shade). The question is, can either Sadolin (water or solvent) or Kreidzeit be re-sprayed without sanding? Whichever product I choose, does it necessarily have to be primed or what other treatment before lacquering? In the case of Kreidzeit, what should be applied before the polish?
Thank you very much!
Hello!
Let's take them one by one 🙂 🙂
- Sadolin variants form the film (either water or solvent). To rebuild, after a while, you will have to sand to make the new coat adhere. If cracks appear in the film, sanding will have to be done to completely remove the layer. Once the cracking and peeling process has started, it will continue even if another layer is applied on top.
- Kreidezeit, being oil, there is no need for sanding. Refilling is done when the oil starts to run out due to weathering. In this case the new coating is easily absorbed into the wood and no adhesion problems occur. Usually, another coat of varnish is applied when the wood begins to lose that lively, oily look. Sanding is only recommended in this case if the surface is very dirty and the dirt cannot be removed by washing with water and detergent.
- primer is generally applied for better adhesion to the substrate. In the case of Sadolin products, if the label recommends the use of primer, it is better to use it to avoid adhesion problems. In the case of Kreidezeit, since it is oil that gets into the wood, there is no question of adhesion. Here the colourless primer will help you save money (coloured varnish is more expensive) and control the colour better. But it is not mandatory, coloured varnish can also be applied directly to the wood.
- before applying the coloured varnish you can apply oil-based colourless primer or colourless varnish. They are only used as a top coat because the lack of pigment makes them UV resistant. For the finish to be resistant on the outside, 1-2 coats of coloured varnish should be applied.
All the best!
Hello. Thank you very much for the clarification. I got a box of Kreidzeit Lactose to test and I am happy with the result. And the color and look/texture is what I imagined and wanted. Thanks for the recommendation!
Glad to have been of service.
All the best!
Hello,
we also have some questions about the most viable solution to protect the wood used for the construction of a cabin in the mountains.
The wooden structure (walls, attic beam, outside terrace) was completed in mid-June. Since then the structure has been open for drying. We think that the cold season is starting and we want to protect the wood of the structure somehow, but we want it to breathe as the wood used has not been dried beforehand.
The structure will be made of wood on the outside and inside we will put foil and basalt and then panelling.
The wooden structure sits on concrete pillars, which ensures drying and the lower part of the all seasons construction.
Inside and under the cottage we have applied 2 coats of fireproofing + anti-mould + anti-insects.
We want to install the doors and windows at the end of September and then the interior finishes so that we can live as much as possible on weekends in winter.
The questions would therefore be:
1) What could we treat the wood inside (exposed floor joists, walls, possibly panelling) with other than the solution we have already used, so that the wood remains exposed and the fibres show through?
2) Do you think that if we apply this year the interior finishes (anti-condensation film + basalt plaster, possibly also the panelling) there is a risk of mould?
3) What could we use to protect the structure of the wooden walls outside so that it can breathe properly, dry naturally over time, "settle" and at the same time be protected from the action of external factors (weather conditions, insects, mould - if any)? We would like the wood to become only slightly stained towards a darker shade, to show the fibres after the application of the "anti-tot" solutions (anti-mould, insects, UV, excessive humidity). We mention that we could finalise the exterior (other applications) next year when the structure will be even drier.
Thank you in advance for your interest and we appreciate your involvement in this magazine.
Good evening!
1. The most suitable option is oil (linseed or synthetic).It protects the wood by letting it continue to exchange moisture with the environment, so it can dry out. The oil does not make a film, so there is no risk of cracking due to drying.
2. If the wood is wet you may have problems when the heat comes on. If there is no foil to let the vapours escape from the inside to the outside, then mould will appear.
3. Also with oil, this time a coloured oil - an oil-based grease. The grain will still be visible, but the wood will have the desired colour (walnut, oak, chestnut, pine, etc). The oil protects against moisture and the pigment in the oil protects against solar radiation (UV). The oil-based varnish is applied after treatments against mould and insects.
All the best
Hello. Before applying Kreidezeit pre-coloured varnish, can I apply a preventive wood treatment (Bochemit Opti F transparent)? I want to protect the wood on the terrace of the house against mould, decay, insects, UV radiation and prolonged dampness (in winter the pergola is retracted, the wooden structure remains exposed to snow).
Hello!
Yes, you can apply Kreidezeit over the Bochemit treatment. Before applying the varnish let the wood dry for at least 24 hours.
Oil-based lacquer protection is a good choice to protect wood against moisture. Apply min. 2 coats and let the wood absorb the oily varnish very well. The drier the wood, the more it absorbs.
All the best!
Hello,
We intend to make an exterior fence out of softwood. What should we protect it with? What should we put on it and in what order. The colour should be as dark as possible.
Thank you
Good evening!
There are several possibilities. You can use oil-based, water-based or solvent-based products. The oil-based ones are less resistant over time, but the finish recovers more easily. The lifetime depends on how much rain falls in the area because the oil is washed off in the rain. You should use dark walnut, venge or ebony oil-based varnish and apply 2-3 coats, depending on how dry the wood is and how much it absorbs.
Water-based products are more resistant, but when the film cracks, the entire old coat must be removed and the finish must be restored from the beginning. You can use only water-based varnish, 2-3 coats like oil-based varnish, or one coat coloured varnish, followed by a coat of exterior varnish. To use only varnish it must be a 2 in 1 or 3 in 1 product. This is specified on the label where it says that varnish can be applied on top of another protection.
Solvent-based products are resistant, but have the disadvantage of an unpleasant smell. They are based on white spirit (petrosin, gas) and the smell is heavier. On the market, the product that I have seen with the longest durability - 14 years - is in this category (Tinova, from Sadolin).
In my opinion the most suitable finish for the fence is the oil-based one.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/03/09/garduri-din-lemn-cum-se-alege-lemnul-materiale-de-protectie-sfaturi/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2020/04/30/de-ce-gardul-facut-de-bunicul-meu-a-durat-50-de-ani/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/08/03/12-reguli-simple-pentru-a-avea-constructii-din-lemn-rezistente-la-exterior/
Hello, if you can please give me some advice on the following problem: I have built a pergola attached to the house, but I intend to cover it next year with wooden panels and bituminous shingles, I want to turn it into a covered terrace, which I paint white.My question is: can I paint the woodwork of the terrace with water-based wood paint (Oskar matt white) to protect the wood until I cover it, or how do you recommend me to protect the wood until then, taking into account that I want the future covered terrace to be painted white?
Hello!
I would protect the wood with an oil-based varnish. Being uncoated, the lacquer is likely to crack much faster and you may need to refinish by sanding back to wood. Oil does not crack over time, it is just "washed" off by rain, so refinishing is much simpler - apply another coat of varnish.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2020/07/02/lazuri-kreidezeit-pe-baza-de-ulei-pentru-finisaj-exterior-natural-si-rezistent/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/05/15/ulei-de-in-cand-unde-si-cum-se-foloseste-cum-sa-ti-faci-singur-vopsele-de-ulei/
Hello,
I intend to rebuild a gate to the yard outside,
made of spruce wood with fence boards bought from DIY, planed natural wood.
I've been reading up on exterior wood protection and decided to try the method of surface burning the planks, followed by brushing and fine sanding. ( Even if it is more work ! )
Of course I will initially do some tests to determine how deep the burn is,
because I want to preserve and highlight the fibrous structure of the wood,
and finally get a more natural look.
If you can give me some advice on this process, it would be welcome....
however my questions relate to the aftercare.
What treatments do you recommend and in what order should I apply them, taking into account the cost/efficiency aspect?
I mention that I will have a surface of about 15m2 outside.
Step 1. and the first coat I think would be the mold and scale treatment,
I thought of PROXILIN ( Policolor ) or Bochemit Opti F+ or maybe you have another recommendation...
Stage 2.
Variant 1. I would opt for a treatment with boiled linseed oil and spices.
Is it ok if I apply it in 2 coats before installation plus 1 coat afterwards say in 6 months towards autumn?
I understand that the first coat is applied a little thinned ( I don't know with what ? ) to penetrate better,
and is it recommended to heat the oil...!?
Over the linseed oil you can apply something else (lard, bait...or another coating?)
I understand that just left with oil does not resist UV !
Can a small amount of pigment be added to linseed oil for UV protection?
In this case ( with oil only ) about what time interval should be reprocessed ?
Does it last 2-3 years or does it require annual treatment?
If I cover it with bait, lard or something else, can it be given with linseed oil afterwards?
Option 2. I thought of treating the wood
with Bochemit Estetik Wood Protectant Oil, I understand it provides a certain transparency
so it will highlight the natural grain and texture of the wood, but...
but being applied to wood treated by burning I don't know if it somehow cancels the effect.
It's also more expensive and I don't know how durable it is over time.
I suspect that Bochemit Estetik or other laziness, bath can also be applied over
a few years ( 5-10 years ) over linseed oil, or not ?
Thank you in advance.
Hello,
I intend to rebuild a gate to the yard outside,
made of spruce wood with fence boards bought from DIY, planed natural wood.
I've been reading up on exterior wood protection and decided to try the method of surface burning the planks, followed by brushing and fine sanding. ( Even if it is more work ! )
Of course I will initially do some tests to determine how deep the burn is,
because I want to preserve and highlight the fibrous structure of the wood,
and finally get a more natural look.
If you can give me some advice on this process, it would be welcome....
however my questions relate to the aftercare.
What treatments do you recommend and in what order should I apply them, taking into account the cost/efficiency aspect?
I mention that I will have a surface of about 15m2 outside.
Step 1. and the first coat I think would be the mold and scale treatment,
I thought of PROXILIN ( Policolor ) or Bochemit Opti F+ or maybe you have another recommendation...
Stage 2.
Variant 1. I would opt for a treatment with boiled linseed oil and spices.
Is it ok if I apply it in 2 coats before installation plus 1 coat afterwards say in 6 months towards autumn?
I understand that the first coat is applied a little thinned ( I don't know with what ? ) to penetrate better,
and is it recommended to heat the oil...!?
Over the linseed oil you can apply something else (lard, bait...or another coating?)
I understand that just left with oil does not resist UV !
Can a small amount of pigment be added to linseed oil for UV protection?
In this case ( with oil only ) about what time interval should be reprocessed ?
Does it last 2-3 years or does it require annual treatment?
If I cover it with bait, lard or something else, can it be given with linseed oil afterwards?
Option 2. I thought of treating the wood
with Bochemit Estetik Wood Protectant Oil, I understand it provides a certain transparency
so it will highlight the natural grain and texture of the wood, but...
but being applied to wood treated by burning I don't know if it somehow cancels the effect.
It's also more expensive and I don't know how durable it is over time.
I suspect that Bochemit Estetik or other laziness, bath can also be applied over
a few years ( 5-10 years ) over linseed oil, or not ?
Thank you in advance.
Or there would be the SADOLIN HARDWOOD OIL option if they go on oil
or water-based SADOLIN TINOVA, only there is no transparent version.
Hello!
Burning wood followed by oiling is a very old method of protecting outdoor wood. It has been used in the past in our country, but it was the Japanese who made it known worldwide - the Shou Sugi Ban method. Below is a link to the article describing the method in detail.
And now the answers to your questions:
- it is good to treat the wood initially against mould and decay. I would go with Bochemit. Even though it is more expensive, it is very good quality.
- Natural linseed oil dries very hard. To shorten the drying time, it is boiled or chemicals are added to speed up the drying process, called siccatives. So boiling and drying have the same result, but one leaves the oil natural and the other adds chemicals.
- the first 2 coats of oil are applied thinner to get as deep as possible into the wood. The deeper it goes, the better and longer it protects.
- by heating the oil becomes more fluid. It is not mandatory to apply heated. Can be diluted with white spirit, petrosin (gas) or turpentine.
- Applying another coat of oil can be done whenever you want, in a few days, 6 months or 2 years. As a rule, it is done when the wood needs to be protected because the old coat has been washed away by the weather. As a hint, apply another coat when the wood starts to look dry, when that wet effect left by the oil wears off.
- over oil can only apply varnishes, paints or alkyd lacquers give oil-based.
- Indeed, linseed oil has no resistance to UV radiation. A small amount of pigment (5%) can be added to make it UV resistant. It will remain transparent but will take on a slight colouring. This is how coloured oil-based outdoor lacquers like Estetik oil are made.
- if pigmented coloured oil is applied, following the indication that the first coats should be more diluted, the oil resists and does not need further coating.
- The durability of oil-based finishes depends mainly on how much rain falls on the objects. Rain washes the oil away over time and another application is needed. If the wood has absorbed a lot of oil in the first applications and the seasons are not very rainy, it may last 2-3 years. The period increases if the object is protected (e.g. eaves).
- no more oil can be applied over film-forming finishes. There's no point. The purpose is to get into the wood.
- Bochemit oil does not cancel the burning effect.
- Bochemite and other oil-based laxative can be applied over linseed oil over the years.
- The cheaper version is pigmented oil, the more expensive Bochemit Estetik. The difference in resistance between them might not be too great if the season is very rainy.
I've put the link to the flaxseed oil here, maybe it will help.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/06/27/arderea-lemnului-de-la-protectie-la-colorare/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/05/15/ulei-de-in-cand-unde-si-cum-se-foloseste-cum-sa-ti-faci-singur-vopsele-de-ulei/
As far as Sadolin products are concerned, Hard oil is an oil-based outdoor polish in the same class as Bochemit Estetik.
Sadolin Tinova water-based is something else, it cannot be combined with oil-based products (cannot be applied over oil). It makes the film and has more resistance over time, but if cracks appear in the film it is harder to rebuild. The whole finish has to be sanded off and started all over again.
Thank you very much for your advice, it is very helpful.
I also asked Deposib and basically,
Repainting of the Bochemit Estetik layer should be about 10 years.
A final question would be whether you consider it appropriate, before applying
Bochemit Estetik layer (because they recommend 2 or 3 layers for the outside),
apply 2-3 coats of linseed oil for better saturation of the wood
and some economy of Estetik ( which is quite expensive...) ?
Hello!
If they give such a high resistance, it means that the oil is synthetic and polymerises in contact with oxygen in the air. If you apply linseed oil to saturate the wood you may weaken the adhesion to the substrate and automatically the strength over time.
I understand your desire to cut costs, but it's good to use the whole system recommended by the manufacturer to reach that level of resistance. Combining materials rarely improves performance, it is usually a source of later inconvenience.
All the best!
Hello!
We have just made 2 wooden panels that we want to place on the terrace of our apartment, but before we could protect them with something, varnish/grease/oil, it rained heavily on two occasions. What to do? Can they still be saved or are they compromised?
Thank you!
Good evening!
If they are made of wood and not chipboard or veneered MDF, there is no problem. Let them dry and then finish them. Always leave a small space when veneering or fitting such panels for air to circulate and for the wood to splinter if water gets on it.
If you protect them with oil or solvent varnishes, it would be preferable to sand the wood lightly before finishing. If it has not been evenly wetted, the drips may appear as stains on the wood after finishing. With water-based products this does not happen.
It is advisable, if you do this kind of work, to finish the wood before fitting. After fitting only make the necessary applications where touch-ups were required.
All the best!
Hello!
I bought a house made of wooden beams built in 2002 by craftsmen from Maramures and unused until now (it is located in the garden and recreation area of the city). The exterior finish of the wood is deteriorated, it is peeling and needs to be rebuilt. As far as can be seen, a fire retardant coating was applied initially, then a red varnish which spoils the "Maramureșan" appearance of the house.
My question is:
1. How to remove the stain without damaging the wood
2. What are the best solutions for treating and protecting the wood, (especially as the beams have dried out over time and rainwater seeps between them), so that it lasts as long as possible.
3. We would like a less reddish colour ( the one now is cherry), how could we do that.
We live in Canada, but have long wanted a log cabin at home. If we're lucky, we should be able to get busy renovating for a month in August-September.
Thank you in advance!
Good evening!
1. The best method is sandblasting. It is done with sand or baking soda (in the case of softer, more sensitive wood) and a special machine that can be rented or bought. It is best, however, to call in a specialist firm that can do this service. Other methods are sanding or pickling, but they are more laborious and with poorer results than sandblasting, especially in the case of a wooden house.
2. There are 2 types of treatments that are commonly used, oil-based or water-based. The oil-based ones have a more rustic look, but are less resistant than the water-based ones. One such natural treatment, with good resistances, is the Kreidezeit treatment whose resistance can reach, depending on the climate in the area, 4-6 years. Water-based systems have reached resistances of 8-12 years. I recently saw a wooden house finished with Lomilux exterior products (ICA - Italian brand of varnishes and paints) and it looked very nice and natural. Their Arborea range of products have very good outdoor resistance and are organic too.
3. Both suppliers have several colours in their portfolio and the possibility to make your own colour.
If you organise everything before you come to Romania, chances are you'll be done within a month. Otherwise it will be difficult, especially as August is also holiday month.
All the best!
Hello,
I am going to build a suspended deck type terrace.
What treatment do you recommend for wood that is part of the load-bearing structure that is not exposed to rain and UV?
Thank you,
Hello!
Being a resistance structure, it is very important that the wood is not in direct contact with the ground (there are special connectors), that the water that reaches it drains off, that it does not stagnate and that there is air circulation to rinse it in case it gets wet.
Even if it's not directly in the rain, it's outside, and the variation in outdoor humidity will influence it. Wood impregnated under pressure or in a vacuum performs best. Find ready-treated wood or you can call on companies that do impregnation services. The substances used protect it against attack by insects, fungi and moisture.
I think oil protection is very suitable, even for impregnated wood. Apply 2-3 coats so that the wood absorbs as much as it needs. Because it is not exposed to rain, the protection will be long lasting. You can use linseed oil or any other oil recommended for outdoor use. You don't need the oil to be pigmented because it is not exposed to the sun's rays.