Techniques for achieving a precious and elegant finish on wood

We often see a decorative object, a picture frame or a mirror or a piece of furniture and it's hard to believe it's made of wood, the look is precious, delicate and elegant. The carefully crafted finish, the quality products used to protect it, the use of skates for special effects often make a simple, ordinary wooden object precious. In the following I'll tell you about finishing techniques for making elegant-looking wooden objects, as well as which materials are best suited for a precious finish.

Preparing wood before applying materials

There are types of furniture - such as rustic or the antiqued - where a scratch, a knock or a bevel in the wood is not so annoying. Often such a defect actually has the opposite effect, enhancing the authenticity of the object. This is not acceptable for elegant-looking furniture or objects. The preparation of wood for furniture of this kind is carried out with the utmost care. Polishing is done conscientiously, very carefully, using finer paper (200-220). Wet sanding is recommended to reveal any fine scratches that would only be visible after wiping.

The surfaces must be perfect, spotless. If repairs have been made, they must be invisible. When the finish is transparent, the wood must be chosen with the utmost care so that its natural design blends perfectly and is continuous. Natural colors are rarely acceptable. From the furniture in white, everything must be as close to perfection as possible.

Coloring and staining wood

Uniformity is one of the requirements and it is unlikely to come out from applying a single coat of stain. Wood has its own way of absorbing color, and the difference in shades in the design influences this uniformity.

Usually, you apply a first coat of a lighter color than the one you want to achieve in the end. Then even it out by making another pass over the initial coat. Standardisation can also be done after applying the primer, sometimes even better. Grundul Better highlights differences in coloration, making color uniformity more effective.

Uniformity is also achieved by using special, uniforming coloring solutions. These are stains which are not very transparent and do not absorb in depth so as not to emphasize the natural design of the wood with all its imperfections.

Often wood staining is chosen. In this case the natural coloration of the wood is no longer disturbing. It is even a method to increase the value of wood with certain coloration defects. By staining the wood grain is completely covered. Holes and scratches are not covered, so the surface must be perfect again.

To give a precious look you can use metallic paints. But be careful when choosing and combining them because such furniture does not have to be garish. Even if bold colors are chosen, they can be softened with the use of runners. You can use light-colored, white or grey patinas, as well as classic walnut or dark walnut. They are used more to create shadows, to soften the color's momentum because the preciousness is obtained from the metallic effect.

Grilling and lacquering

If transparent, such a finish must have depth, be rich and clear in transparency. At least 2 coats of primer are needed to avoid looking shabby, and that's only if you use a full-bodied primer. Usually 3 or even 4 coats are applied, with sanding in between, to achieve a smooth, even and pleasant to the touch. The primer must be of good quality, with very good transparency to give the impression of depth.

Sanding between coats is very important because it ensures the smoothness and pleasant touch of the finish. This operation removes the high grain of the wood and any imperfections in the primer coat (orange peel, stings or fine scratches from sanding). Sanding before varnishing is done with sandpaper with a minimum grit size of 320, 400 is best. Elegant furniture is finished with higher gloss varnish, 50-70 gloss. This is an elegant, non-aggressive gloss. Coated with such a varnish, the tiny scratches from sanding with unsuitable paper become very visible.

The lake for elegant furniture is located in the semi-gloss-gloss area. A gloss level The lower gloss, 20-35 gloss, puts the mobla in the ordinary zone, while the high gloss, 90-100 gloss, makes it too aggressive, "spoils" its elegance. The lack of sheen, so appreciated in natural-looking furniture, is not a good choice here.

The varnish should be nice and silky. Sometimes, to improve the touch, a layer of wax is applied over the varnish and polished. Wax contributes to both the touch and shine.

Skating, special effects

Decorative objects and elegant furnishings often have discreetly applied patinas that add depth or discreet metallic sheens. They are applied over the primer so that you can control the amount and remove excess.

Patinas in dark colors - walnut or black - are used to mark profiles or carvings and give them depth. Gold, silver or bronze ones give that precious look. If you want an object to be entirely in a metallic color use metallic paints, not patinas. Patinas are for touches and accents, to highlight something. It's the jewelry on a woman's hand or the earring in her ear. It's not about quantity, it's about quality.

Elegant classic furniture is well suited to spacious, high-ceilinged homes. The accompanying materials and decorations should be of the same quality. Drapes, curtains, curtains, decorative cushions, rugs and carpets should also be of the same height. Classically elegant furniture is also used to create a pleasant, welcoming atmosphere in luxury hotels and guest houses or elegant restaurants. In fact, it's what really sets the style of the place.