Oil finishing is one of the oldest methods of protecting wood, used to make it more water-resistant and to preserve its natural appearance. Many hobby woodworkers and wood finishers want that natural look. Although applying the oil may seem simple, there are a few rules to follow to get a good result and an effective finish.
1. Make sure the wood can absorb the oil
The main quality of oil is that it penetrates into the wood and increases its resistance to moisture. To maximize absorption, the wood should be sanded as properly as possible before application. Paper grain sanding should not exceed 180. The aim is not to smooth the wood but to open the fiber ends so that the wood can easily absorb the oil. The finer the sanding paper (280, 320) the finer the resulting dust becomes and will close the fiber ends and pores, blocking them. Absorption will be hindered, the amount of oil getting into the wood will be less and therefore the resistance to moisture will be lower.
Wood-finishing oil is usually a mixture of several types of oil to provide the most complete protection. Among the natural oils, linseed oil is best absorbed (because it has the smallest molecule) and is used in all mixtures.
Absorption is, however, different in softwood compared to hardwood. As a result, for oiling softwood (fir, spruce, plop, arin) oil can be used without dilution. For hardwood (oak, frasin, fag, acacia) the oil must be diluted. Natural diluents for oil are turpentine or white spirit (petrosin). However, you can also use universal thinners, which can be found in specialty stores. In general, 5-10% added thinner is sufficient to make the oil fluid and easily absorbed.
2. Give the oil time to absorb
Apply a coat of excess oil and let the wood absorb it. Don't rush the process. Wood has its own rhythm and if you want a good result, you must be patient. Apply excess oil, wait 30-45 minutes and only then wipe off the excess with a soft cotton cloth.
3. Always wipe off any excess left on the wood surface
It is compulsory to wipe off the surplus remaining after the 45-minute wait. When oiling, most problems occur because this excess has not been wiped off. In contact with air, it becomes sticky and is quite difficult to remove to restart the process. Wiping is done with a soft cotton cloth that does not scratch or leave lint. We recommend cotton because it absorbs well, but other textiles can also be used. Sponges can also be used. But make sure it's the type of sponge that resists solvents.
The oil does not form a film because it does not dry thoroughly. Drying occurs only on the surface, where the oil comes into direct contact with the air. The rest remains liquid. So the amount left on the surface will turn into a sticky gel.
A squeegee is used to remove the gel, then the surface is washed with thinner. Allow to dry and check if it is still sticky. If so, wash again with thinner until it is no longer sticky. If not, continue finishing with a further coat of oil.
4. Do not rush the process. Allow the coats to soak into the wood and dry thoroughly
After the excess is wiped off, the remaining layer of oil on the surface of the wood will become very thin and dry. But it needs time. So, leave a minimum of 24 hours between oil coats. After drying, the surface can be sanded with fine sandpaper (280-320) to make it pleasant to the touch. If the next coat is applied before the oil is dry, the amount absorbed will be reduced and the surface layer may become tacky.
Natural linseed oil dries very slowly, in 3-5 days, maybe even longer. To shorten the drying time, it is treated by boiling or by adding chemicals (sacidification). Boiling was used in the past and is still used today to treat natural oils.
The amount of oil absorbed also depends on how dry the wood is. In general, 2-3 coats are sufficient. You can tell if another coat is needed by the amount left on the surface of the wood after the 45 minute wait. If it is a large amount, the wood has reached saturation and does not need another coat.
photo source: solventfreepaint.com
5. Do not use totally transparent oil if you are protecting wood used outdoors
The oil is also used to protect wood exposed outdoors. It is very good against moisture, but it has no resistance to UV radiation. Substances must be added to the oil that deflect UV radiation so that it does not reach the wood. This is why transparent outdoor products are always lightly colored. The most commonly used colorants are pigments. For a minimum of protection, the amount of pigment should not exceed 5%. The result is a very light color, almost invisible on thin layers of oil. The higher the amount of pigment, the more effective the protection, and it is at its maximum in the case of paints (when the wood is totally covered).
In conclusion, Avoid totally transparent oils as they do not protect the wood well from the outside. Pigment-free oils are great against weathering, but wood will change color in the sun.
photo source: msnskins.net
6. Maintain the finish. Freshen it regularly
Oil finishes are not very durable. Products used for cleaning, dust, weathering and the abrasive effect of wind combined with sand particles, in the case of exterior wood, cause the oil on the surface to fade over time. The appearance of the wood becomes dry, and unless a new coat is applied, the wood begins to change color, turning the gray of aged wood.
The advantage with oil is that reapplication is simple. The oil does not film, crack or flake, nor does it need sanding before applying another coat. The only thing you need to do is to clean the surfaces of any dirt on furniture or wooden objects indoors. Do this with water and dishwashing detergent (not the abrasive kind), then wipe clean and allow to rinse. Then apply a coat with an oil-soaked cloth and leave to dry. This time the oil is not over-applied.
7. Beware of oil-soaked rags
It's not about any technique for oil-finishing wood, it's about avoiding the problems that can arise from rags or sponges soaked in oil or oil thinner. These products present a danger of self-combustion, especially if sunlight hits them. So, when you've finished working with them, put them in a bowl of water and cover them. Don't throw them in the trash as they are. Preferably you can water in the emptied oil container, put the rags in it and cover. Dispose of the container in its entirety in the designated disposal areas. Don't leave any residues lying around! Dry debris can also cause damage if the sun gets to it.
I hope you find these tips helpful. Do you have any comments, additions or questions? Leave them below in the space provided.
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thank you for a professional information !
With pleasure! And thank you for following us. 🙂
Hello,
Very useful information in the article. I have been following you with interest for a very long time.
I would like some advice from you. I have an old country house made of oak wood located in historical Maramures. At the moment we are in the process of refurbishing and I would like to know if it is recommended to apply linseed oil on the traditional wooden ceiling (attic in traditional terms). The house is about 70 years old.
Thank you!
Hello!
Yes, you can apply linseed oil, either spiced or boiled. (Linseed oil dries very hard. To shorten the drying time, boil the oil or add chemicals - siccatives). It is advisable to clean it a little beforehand to remove accumulated dirt.
In an old house it is even recommended to use old wood oil. The oil "nourishes" it and is also a natural way of protection.
All the best!
Hello.
I have a natural wood countertop on which the bathroom sink will sit, bought from a store that said it was specifically for sinks, but it gets water stains. What solution can I use to keep it looking like it was originally, to make it water resistant, not to shine like when varnished and not to be sticky? Is there a special varnish, wax or other solution that does this? Basically I want to waterproof it without changing the way it looks now, and I was thinking including oil, but I don't know which is the best choice.
Thank you.
Good evening!
Such products have a water-based impregnating coating. If the wood has larger pores or the impregnating layer is insufficient, the water manages to penetrate the barrier and stain the wood.
The solutions for such a countertop are oil or a hardening varnish. Oil should be applied in 2-3 coats with a 24 hour break for drying and wiping off excess after the wood has absorbed. The finish does not film, is not glossy (it has a slight satin effect) and should be refreshed from time to time, preferably annually. However, such a finish does not have good mechanical resistance.
A finish with very good resistance, both to water and mechanical resistance is the one with varnish that has a hardener (type A+B) such as polyurethane varnish. You must get matt varnish to avoid gloss. The varnish should be applied to the entire surface, including the edges to prevent water absorption into the wood.
There is also the possibility of using insulators. Insulators are water-based or solvent-based, they absorb into the interior blocking absorption in depth and do not film.
Find these products in DIY stores.
All the best!
Hello mana! I would like if it is possible to give me a piece of advice: I want to finish two table tops made of solid palin wood, I have previously sanded them with 100...220 grit sandpaper, the wood has a special design and I want to take advantage of its natural look, can you give me an example of some products on the market especially for table tops and how to apply them?
Hello!
Palin is a very beautiful wood and deserves to be highlighted. Being a hardwood you can use oil, it will bring out the natural wood design very well. I recommend tung oil or Danish oil. Apply 2-3 coats with a drying time of 24 hours in between. Apply each coat in excess, let the wood absorb for 30-45 min, then wipe off the remaining excess with a soft cotton cloth. After the first coat has dried, sand with 280 or 320 grit sandpaper to remove the raised grain and achieve a pleasant cough. For a silky look you can give it a final coat of wax and polish it with a soft cotton cloth.
If you want to have a film and a higher resistance to scratches or patches (with coffee, alcohol) use hardening varnish (polyurethane or acrylic). I recommend that the varnish has a gloss of min.40. I'm not usually a fan of gloss, but palin wood has a natural sheen that is a shame to lose. Apply 2 coats, with drying and sanding in between. The priming should be done according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
I didn't recommend a water-based varnish because it's less spectacular and I find it loses the charm of lamn.
Good luck!
Handshake, thank you for your reply and your promise, I follow your articles with interest, you bring many out of the "fog" with your articles!
Thank you too for your appreciation and for following us. 🙂
I was reading somewhere about how a carpenter used to close the pores when he applied linseed oil and after about 10 minutes sand the wood so that the dust with the freshly applied oil would clog the pores (grain filing). What do you make of this? Would that be ok?
Hello.
It is a way of grouting. Wood dust, mixed with varnish or glue, is often used to fill small holes or scratches. The problem occurs when the pores are large because they look whitish. But even this may seem interesting to some.
Dust can be a nuisance when applying varnish because it reduces adhesion. With oil, as it is a matter of deep absorption not film, this is not a problem. Provided there is not a lot of it, and with this kind of sanding, this is not the case.
All the best!
Hello,
I recently bought a solid beech table (https://www.chilipirul-zilei.ro/cumpara/masa-richwood-140-x-90-959) which is unfinished.
Can you tell me what varnish I could put on it or if it needs to be coated with something else for protection?
Good evening!
The most resistant varnish to scratches and patches is polyurethane varnish. It is a chemical hardening varnish, type A+B, very suitable for tables.
Fg wood is a hard wood, so the table can be oiled. Use tung oil, linseed oil or Danish oil. The surface will be less resistant to patches or scratches, but it will be easier to finish and, in my opinion, more beautiful, more natural. The oil brings out the natural grain of the wood very well. But be careful to wipe off the excess (which is not absorbed by the wood) because it becomes sticky over time. The oil does not form a film but gets into the wood and protects it from moisture (and sometimes strengthens the grain).
More information about oiling can be found in the link below.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2019/04/17/7-reguli-de-respectat-la-finisarea-cu-ulei-a-lemnului/
Hello,
I would like to purchase a dining room table with a solid oak top that is factory treated with oil only. From buyers reviews it appears that the top stains if wiped with a wet cloth or if liquid is spilled on it. Because of this I would like to treat the countertop with a varnish for moisture and scratch resistance, but I don't know if I can apply varnish over oil and what kind of varnish to apply. I would like, if possible, to recommend a procedure for the treatment.
Thank you
Hello!
The only varnish that can be applied over oil is alkyd varnish.
Normally, an oiled surface should repel water. Probably a very small amount has been applied or is just wax. I would try to find a quality oil and apply 2-3 more coats so the wood is saturated. Application to be in excess, let the wood absorb 30-45 minutes, then wipe off the excess with a soft cotton cloth (an old t-shirt). Allow to dry for a minimum of 24 hours and repeat the operation.
Use tung oil, Danish oil or oils specially made for kitchen worktops (Borma Wachs hard top oil, for example).
Good luck!
At a new cottage built from wooden beams not technologically dried, but left outdoors 1-2-3 months, do you think only linseed oil is enough? Or does something else need to be added to the oil film?
Thank you for the lessons and guidance you post. I have learned more from you than in my entire life.
Hello.
Thank you very much for your appreciation.
Oil is enough. Products that make film are not recommended in this case.
Wood used for houses, which is not kiln-dried, should be left longer unfinished. Those who make log houses leave them on site for at least 6 months for the wood to settle. After it is built at the customer's site, the house stays a few more months before it gets the final finish, even if it is oil.
The oil allows the wood to naturally exchange moisture with the environment. If you do the finishing now, when the wood is still wet, the wood will absorb less oil and the oil will be more quickly "washed off" by the rain. You will have to refinish it sooner, probably even after a year.
All the best!
Thank you for your answer. I come back with another question. I want to put Borax solution on the beams. Both on the inside and on the outside of the walls. From what I understand from your articles, it would be necessary to give at least two coats with borax solution. First the borax and after a few days with the Sicativated linseed oil in which I added an anti UV pigment. Is this correct? And there is another question: after the cabin is assembled, only then can I insulate the ends of the beams with paraffin? Or from now on, when the logs have been cut into the beams and are left to dry?
Hello.
Beam ends can be insulated at any time. The sooner the better. This prevents a lot of water from escaping from the wood in a short time and cracks from appearing.
The sequence of operations is correct. Allow to dry thoroughly after Borax so that the wood can absorb the oil well. Apply 2-3 coats of oil, with 24 hours drying time between coats and wiping off the excess after each coat (apply excess oil, leave for 30-45 minutes, then wipe off excess).
All the best!
Thank you very much for your answers.
With pleasure.
I also stained two pieces of oak furniture with a waxed oil stain using the information you gave me. I want to ask you how to do the maintenance/renewal of the oil layer considering that the oil is waxed and stained and reusing it would stain the wood excessively. Thank you for your reply and for all you do.
Good evening!
To avoid darkening the colour too much you can use colourless wax. If in time the wax disappears you can use colourless oil. Unfortunately, wax is the final layer and will not accept anything else on top. The only option is to use all wax.
All the best!
Hi,
I would like to know if it's okay the combination of water based bath for color plus oil coating for protection, spruce wood interior use. Thanks
Hello!
Yes, they are compatible, provided that the water-based dip initially applied is completely dry. For safety, apply the oil 24 hours after applying the oil bath.
All the best!
Hello!
I intend to treat the panelling on a veranda to the outside with sicativated linseed oil.I read in your presentation that it is absolutely necessary to have pigment in the composition.5%.Question, where can one purchase pigment for staining the varnish?
Thank you very much!
Hello!
Yes, transparent linseed oil only protects against the weather. Pigmented oil also protects against sun and UV radiation.
Kreidezeit pigments found on https://iscusit.revistadinlemn.ro/acasa/96-710-pigment-pentru-ulei-ceara-tencuiala-kreidezeit-175-g.html#/51-culoare-galben_ocru.
You can use any type of pigment as long as you mix it very well. More information can be found in the link below.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/05/15/ulei-de-in-cand-unde-si-cum-se-foloseste-cum-sa-ti-faci-singur-vopsele-de-ulei/
Thanks a lot for the information!
Please tell me if I can use transformer oil instead of linseed oil to treat the outside of the spruce beam walls of a wooden cabin. As this oil is mineral, it may have better qualities than linseed oil. In terms of temperature resistance, impregnation...
Thank you for all the extremely useful information that has helped me in my daily life.
Gabriel
Hello!
Mineral oil is used to finish wood. The purified version, also used in pharmacy, is used for finishing wooden objects that come into contact with food. In the villages, burnt transformer oil was commonly used to protect fences or wooden fittings. The black particles in the composition provided protection against the sun's rays.
In conclusion, you can use transformer oil to protect the walls of your cabin. It will protect well against moisture. However, if it is transparent, it will not protect against UV radiation and the wood will change colour over time (it will get that specific grey colour).
Transformer oils, motor oils and other such oils are formulated to be fit for the purpose for which they were made: to withstand very high temperatures, not to lose fluidity, to lubricate very well, etc. If they have very good properties for one area, they need not have them for another. So, if you are looking for a very good oil-based product for your cottage walls, look for one specially formulated for wood used outdoors.
All the best!
Thank you very much for your help.
With gratitude
Gabriel
Hello!
Mrs Mihaela Radu, I want to change the bilge covers on the boat with Okoume plywood ones. Please tell me what oil to use, if this is the best solution or is there another one?
Thank you!
Marian Gheorghe
Hello!
I don't know how good the choice of plywood is. As far as I know, okume is not water and rot resistant. It has large pores and hard to "close". It would look great oiled, but it depends on how much it comes in contact with water and moisture. I don't know boats, so I can't know the degree of damage.
The oil is a good protection against water, but it is also easily "washed off" by water. There are synthetic oil variants with hardener that are more resistant.
I think it would be best to use special craft products or a moisture resistant wood. The old boats in England were made of oak.
I hope you found it useful.
All the best!
Good evening!
For some time now I have discovered a passion for kitchen utensils. I've been reading on forums and websites and found several types of oil as acceptable (VOC free oils). Now the question is:
Can grape seed oil be used for this? Or is it good for wood finishing in general, or just for salting and skin cleansing?
Thank you in advance!
I answered my own question.
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2019/07/11/protejarea-vaselor-de-lemn-din-bucatarie-cu-materiale-netoxice/
Thank you!
Good evening!
I was just getting ready to answer. 🙂
I'm glad you found the answer to the question yourself. It means that you enjoyed "browsing" the pages of the magazine.
All the best!
Hello!
I have been a subscriber to your magazine for a few years. My first thought for finding the answer was to browse the magazines, but there I did not find it. After that I searched through the articles on the site, but by carelessness I jumped over the one that interested me, and so I ended up writing to you.
You will always be an important source of information.
Thank you!
Have a nice day!
Thank you for your appreciation!
All the best!
Hello, at the wooden cottage I have wooden posts painted with red danke paint, underneath is primer; I want to switch to red coloured linseed oil varnish, but I can only find it in wood shades and I have other elements of the house red; I can't find separate dyes or minerals to mix into the linseed oil, so what can I do? Does it work to give a water based red bath first before the linseed oil so I get the red colour? Thanks in advance.
Hello!
Find here coloured pigments for waxes and waxes, including red. With oil-based colourless varnish (you can find it on the same website) and pigments you can make any colour you want. To make the varnish use 3-5% pigment, and for the paint 20%.
It is also possible to use bait and then oil. In this case you have to make sure that the bait is for outdoors and resists UV radiation. Also, the linseed oil must be lightly coloured to resist UV radiation (or be special outdoor oil.
All the best!
Hello, please kindly I need an answer from you for an exterior pine door. I bought a door for the entrance to my house from a joinery. Initially I said to give it with linseed oil but from everything I read from you I understand that better is teak oil for outside. Is that ok? If so, is it necessary for the protection of the wood at the interperations to give with something else?
I have another problem. I bought second hand solid wood double glazed windows...they are painted with something of quality but I would like to refresh the colour and make the wood possibly more resistant to breakage. If I want to change the colour do I have to use enamel and what oil should I use? After the oil what are the necessary steps?
I'm going to put in the pinewood shower. Linseed oil from what I understand is best. Is anything else necessary?
From your articles I understand that after about a year it is good to resume oiling for wood maintenance whether it is inside a shower or outside a door. Do I understand correctly? What if the window is painted? What is good to maintain it with?
Thanks so much for your reply and thank you for writing articles for all of us who need it!
Good evening!
Let's take them one by one:
- Linseed oil can be used outdoors if it is lightly coloured with pigments. It protects very well against humidity but, if it does not have that small percentage of pigments to colour it a little, it is not resistant to sun and UV radiation. Commercial teak oil is not oil extracted from teak wood but a little coloured oil that will give the teak colour to the protected wood. For staining the door use oil based exterior stain.
- you can only use oil for second hand windows if they have been painted with oil-based paint (not alkyd, but oil-based). If it is another type of paint, you have to remove the old coat completely to apply oil. The oil must get into the wood to protect it. If you don't want to remove the old paint, then you should wash the windows, sand them lightly with 280 or 320 grit sandpaper or a fine abrasive sponge and repaint them. If it was alkyd paint, use alkyd paint. Any other type of paint can be coated with water-based exterior paint.
- for the shower you can use oil or floor varnish. Oil looks more rustic, protects against water and is easier to apply, but is less resistant than varnish. For a good resistance use special floor oils.
- the oil must be refreshed because over time it is washed away by rain (the one on the outside) or by maintenance substances, if it is inside. The refreshing is done when the wood starts to look dry (it no longer has the wet look of the oil), which is a sign that the oil is gone.
- for windows there are maintenance substances with which to grease the frames. Maintenance is usually done in autumn, before the cold season. Linseed oil can also be used for maintenance and applied to the window tint. It will remain on the surface and will be "eaten" by bad weather in the paint.
Below are links to articles you may find useful.
Thanks for your appreciation!
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/08/03/12-reguli-simple-pentru-a-avea-constructii-din-lemn-rezistente-la-exterior/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/06/25/8-cele-mai-frecvente-intrebari-despre-protejarea-lemnului-la-exterior/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/05/15/ulei-de-in-cand-unde-si-cum-se-foloseste-cum-sa-ti-faci-singur-vopsele-de-ulei/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/06/15/optiuni-naturale-pentru-acoperirea-pardoselilor-din-lemn/
Hello, thank you very much for all the information. I read all the articles of real help for novices like me.
I wish you all the best!
Thanks for the useful information, Mrs Radu! A short question related to the maintenance of an oak secession gate that already shows signs of wear after it was produced and installed a year ago and already shows signs of discoloration of the paint applied initially. Would a treatment with linseed oil only work? Thanks in advance for your answer!
Linseed oil treatment only works if an oil-based paint has been applied beforehand. Otherwise there is no point because the oil does not get into the paint or the wood. It remains on the surface and is washed away by rain.
The discolouration appeared quite quickly. Either the paint should not have been used outside (pigments without UV resistance) or it was oil paint and the oil was washed away by large amount of water from rain. The pigment remained without a binder on the surface and could easily be removed, even by hand. In this case, applying a layer of linseed oil does very well because link pigment again.
Linseed oil is not very resistant to rain, so it is not recommended for outdoor use. It has a small molecule size which helps it get deep into the wood, but it comes out just as quickly if there is excess water. That's why exterior oil finishes should be refinished every 6 months-1 year.
All the best!
We burned some planks using the Japanese shou sugi technique. Basically, I turned them into charcoal on the surface. I got a spectacular texture, very smooth and pleasant to the touch. I would like to know how to keep the texture, what oil to use for moisturizing the ready-baked wood and for fixing the charcoal film. Epoxy resin would be a bit expensive solution , that's why I would prefer oil or maybe varnish. Thanks! I am waiting for suggestions.
Hello!
The traditional Japanese method uses tung oil. To be very durable you need quality oil. There are many products on the market under the name 'tung oil', but many are blended with linseed oil. The higher the percentage of tung oil, the better the product.
The effect can also be protected with varnish (applied by spraying) or epoxy resin. The outdoor resistance or resistance over time depends in this case on the qualities of the products used.
I link below to articles about tung oil and epoxy resin, maybe they are helpful.
Good luck!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2020/06/10/uleiul-de-tung-uleiul-pentru-lemn-care-face-pelicula-si-rezista-foarte-bine-la-umezeala/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/04/12/rasina-epoxidica-pardoseala-epoxidica/
Hello,
A 14 mm laminate floor of which 4 mm is (blind) oak, laid over underfloor heating with what would be good to cover? Polyurethane varnish, two-component water or oil?
It is worth mentioning that the parquet is located both at the entrance of the house and in the kitchen, besides this, the cleaning robot is used (vacuuming and mopping - only with water).
Thank you.
Hello!
I would opt for polyurethane. It is highly resistant to mechanical action, abrasion as well as temperature, water and chemical stains.
Water-based two-component varnish is also resistant, but it is very important to apply it correctly. If the sanding between coats is not done properly, mechanical shocks can cause the coats to peel off and the top coat can peel off like a skin from the rest of the film. There have been instances where such a varnish peeled off in one corner has been totally detached by the vacuum cleaner. With polyurethane varnish this is impossible because the film is brittle.
The oil makes the wood look very good and natural, but has low water resistance. Also, refinishing should be done more often (sometimes annually) because with normal floor care procedures, the oil comes off faster and easier.
In the link below you will find information that you may find useful.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/02/13/raschetare-parchet-etape-si-realizare-intretinerea-parchetului/
Hello. I purchased a pine and a fir wood furniture treated by the manufacturer only with oil. The furniture is for interior. I would like to apply a colorless varnish from Oskar company containing hydrophobic wax. Is it suitable? I want a more glossy look. Or is the manufacturer's oil sufficient? Thank you
Hello!
Oskar colorless varnish with hydrophobic wax is water-based and cannot be applied over oil. In the instructions for use, the manufacturer recommends applying directly to clean and sanded wood. In general, water-based varnishes cannot be applied over oil (see link below).
You can apply another coat of varnish and, after drying, a coat of colorless (or colored) furniture wax. The wax can be polished with a piece of felt or a soft, clean cotton cloth (an old cotton T-shirt). You will get a very nice silky sheen.
If the surface of the furniture is not rough and does not look very poor in oil, wax can be applied without an additional coat of varnish. Polish as above.
Good luck!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2021/06/02/de-ce-nu-merge-lac-sau-vopsea-pe-baza-de-apa-peste-ulei-de-in/