Treatments applied to the furniture or wooden countertop supporting the sink to resist humidity

The idea of using wood for bathroom furniture almost always comes up against the fear that it won't withstand the wet environment. This fear is unjustified when you think of the wooden bath barrels, Finnish saunas or wooden grills that used to be found in most bathrooms. Wood does well in these environments, and if protected will prevent mold growth. An oil-treated bathroom countertop holds up very well, provided that finish is refreshed when the oil wears off. Much more susceptible to water are the glues that must be made with strong adhesives and the materials or construction solutions used to make the bathroom furniture. Let's see how we can finish a countertop or wooden furniture on which the bathroom sink rests to make them as moisture resistant as possible.

Protection with oils

It is the oil that best highlights the wood and preserves its natural look. Those who appreciate it want to see and feel it even under the most difficult conditions, such as in the bathroom. A bathroom worktop can be made from any type of wood, but the harder species are recommended (oak, ulm, acacia) or resinous (spruce, pine, larch). It is best to use solid wood panel. If solid wood is used, it must be joined in such a way as to avoid water stagnation. Always use moisture-resistant glue made of Classes D3 or D4. If wooden furniture is used instead of countertops, the design should be chosen so that there are no hard-to-reach areas. Water can easily get in, but will be difficult to wipe off. The area will remain permanently damp and develop mold. Glued or metal joints must also be moisture-resistant.

If you're choosing oil to protect your bathroom countertops or furniture, look for oil for wood. There are several kinds of oil. You can use tung oil, linseed oil or blends of these oils - Danish oil or teak oil (it's not teak, it just resembles the color of teak). There are also blends from different companies, more or less natural. I say less natural because there are also synthetic oils. In general, it is the price that shows how natural a product is. The higher the price, the cleaner, more natural it is. Natural oils can easily be used to protect things we come into contact with. For objects that come into contact with food, use mineral oil.

To be as moisture-resistant as possible, the wood must absorb the oil thoroughly. It is therefore best to apply excess oil, leave it to soak in for 30-45 minutes, then wipe the wood with a soft cloth that absorbs well and leaves no lint. Wiping is mandatory because otherwise the wood becomes sticky. The oil is applied with a soft cloth or brush, on both sides, on the edges, including the cut-outs. After 24 hours, the drying time, the operation is repeated. 2-4 coats can thus be applied. The wood must be properly dried (8-12% moisture content), sanded and sanded.

Protecting with moisture-resistant varnishes or paints

Those who do not trust oil or want a finish that is more resistant over time and which also ensures the mechanical resistance of the protected surfaces can use varnishes or paints. They must be resistant to moisture, otherwise they will bleach and flake. This is the case with nitrocellulose varnish, which is well known and widely used. It's a nice-looking varnish, but very poorly resistant to moisture. It is also not recommended for table tops, let alone bathroom countertops.

The most resistant varnishes in such cases are two-component varnishes, i.e. varnishes with chemical hardening. This is the case polyurethane varnishes, acrylic, polyester. The chemical reaction between the two components of the varnish will result in a film with very good mechanical and physico-chemical resistance. The countertop or furniture thus finished will be much more resistant to humidity, but also to scratches, abrasions or knocks. In this case too, the application must be made on both sides, on the edges and in the recesses. Apply 2-3 coats of varnish (or 1-2 primers + 1 varnish), with sanding between coats to obtain a surface as pleasant to the touch as possible.

If you want to protect your bathroom wood yourself, I recommend using water-based varnishes to avoid the inconvenience of solvent evaporation. Although they are not hardened, they are tough enough to protect the wood from moisture. The varnished surface may take on an opalescent appearance if it comes into contact with water immediately after drying. Don't panic! Water-based varnish has a longer drying time (up to 2-3 weeks), during which time it can still absorb some of the existing moisture. Opalescence will disappear if you remove the moisture source. It will come back faster if there is a source of heat. It is a good idea to leave the countertop for at least 48 hours after finishing before the water reaches the surface.

Rules to follow for a durable finish

To make the finish last as long as possible and protect your bathroom countertop or furniture, I recommend the following:

• Oil or varnish all parts of the worktop or furniture thoroughly. Don't assume that if you have fixed the sink very well in the cut-out area that you don't need to finish that area. Water easily gets into the most hidden places. And if you don't notice this it is even worse. At some point you will smell mold and you won't know from where;
• Refinish with oil when the wood surface begins to change its original appearance (sometimes slightly dry). Over time, oil is removed by wiping or during cleaning. Don't let it disappear completely, it will be more difficult to repair. If you react as soon as the appearance changes, restoration will be much simpler. Simply wipe the surface with an oil-soaked cloth;
• Don't leave excess oil undried as it will not dry out. It will become sticky, unpleasant to the touch and very hard to remove;
• After using the sink, do not let the water stand on the oiled surface. You'll shorten the time it takes to refinish.
• Sand the wood surface before applying protection. Raised grain, as well as looking unpleasant, can also be the way water gets into the wood;
• Be careful with very sharp objects which can damage the varnish film. Lacquers are resistant but not impossible to penetrate. Deep scratches compromise protection. Water can get under the film and the finish will crack.

The furniture presented in the article is made by iPlan Furniture - Dragos Costache and Constantin Iosif

Photos are property of iPlan Furniture

I hope you find the information useful. If you think it would be useful to others, feel free to share. And if you have any questions, clarifications or want to add to it, leave them below in the dedicated space.