What kind of wood is suitable for hand turning

Hand turning is a special field in woodworking, somewhere between craft and art. It takes training, the right tools and machinery, passion and many hours working with different species and sizes of wood to become a specialist. But the discovery is ongoing because wood is a non-homogeneous material and its behaviour can be different even when the elements come from the same tree. So how do we choose wood? Which species are most suitable for turning? Can freshly cut green wood be turned? Can a block of wood made from several species be turned? I will try to answer these and other questions about the qualities of the wood to be turned below.

Which species are the best turners

Any wood can be turned, but experts all agree that it is best sanded hardwood. Basically it's about dividing into hardwood and softwood, with hardwood sanding better. As with sanding, it is a question of being able to cut the grain cleanly, without the wood becoming brittle and the wood providing the necessary strength to make it possible to cut without cracking or breaking. However, the best balance must be found between these properties because if it is very hard, it becomes difficult to turn because the fibre is harder and harder to cut.

Softwoods, such as softwood or plop or willow, is recommended for beginners precisely because it offers less resistance. The chisels must be very sharp so that the fibre is cut cleanly and easily. But be careful with the quality of the wood. Ploughed wood growing in sandy areas may contain sand which will lead to rapid tool chipping. Due to the high rotational speed of the resin, which heats up the resin, resinous resin can form gums that clog the tools. Fir wood is preferred to spruce because it has resin only under the bark, not in the wood (only exceptionally).

Below are some examples of wood species and how they are sanded:

• oak - is difficult to turn due to its high hardness. Needs very sharp tools. Turning when dry is recommended because it deforms a lot when drying;
• frasin - is hard to turn because it is a hard wood. It needs very sharp tools and high rotation speed. It is the wood from which baseball bats are made;
• nuc - is relatively easy to twist and does not show fibre pull-outs. As it is also a hardwood, frequent sharpening of the tools is necessary. Dust is toxic and a mask is needed. Very suitable for making bowls;
• cherry - medium turning difficulty. Uniform fibre and small pores make it an enthusiast's favourite. If turning has been done on green wood, drying must be done very carefully as it tends to warp and crack. Very good for bowls, pens;
• fag - is relatively easy to turn. It is hard and tough with small pores and is widely used for table legs and chairs. It sands better dry. Suitable for food items because it has no odour or unwanted substances;
• maple - is slightly twisted. Uniform fibre and small pores. Suitable for bowls, pens. Risk of staining when staining, especially in dark colours. Fine sanding required before staining;
• palisander - medium turning difficulty. Being hard it grinds tools and frequent sharpening is needed. It is dense, with a high draw and gloss. Dust can cause skin and mucous membrane irritation;
• birch - turns easily and can be finished even when green. Uniform wood is no problem, but it is rather dull, the resulting objects do not have the charm of cherry or walnut;
• poplar - easy turning and very suitable for beginners and for practising. It has a tendency to lick whether dry or green;
• măslin - It's hard to turn, but it's a spectacular wood that's worth the effort. Being very hard, often with twisted grain, it requires quality, well-sharpened tools and high rotational speed. Very suitable for bowls, pens, small decorative items.

Green wood or dry wood?

From the above you already understand that green, untreated wood can also be turned. However, turning wet wood is not recommended for beginners because green wood is harder to control and more unpredictable. It is also not recommended for use when making precision items that need to fit very well, like a box lid, for example. When the wood dries it shrinks and contraction is different in the 3 directions, longitudinally, radially and tangentially, which will result in deformation of the object.

Turning is recommended dry wood, reached equilibrium with the environment, i.e. 8-12% humidity (at an indoor air humidity of 40-60%). Dry wood is stable and dense, which makes turning easier. The object obtained is ready for finishing and use, it does not need a drying period. And during this drying period, in addition to deformation, cracks can appear, which can even be radical, leading to the destruction of the object. That is why a turned object made of green wood must be protected so that the water runs out as slowly as possible. Protection can be done with paraffin or wax and the object should be wrapped in wax paper, preferably dark.

Sometimes, however, turning green wood cannot be avoided. Natural drying of wood takes a year for every 2 to 2.5 cm of wood thickness, and for kiln drying the wood is cut into boards or planks. If you want to turn a large bowl, it is difficult to find suitable dried wood. In such cases there is no alternative to turning green wood. Fortunately, this type of turning has other advantages:

• wood dust is not removed, it is found in the form of large sawdust,
• is easier to process as it is less hard, the opposite strength is lower,
• can be processed immediately after cutting, with the bark attached to the trunk,
• is cheaper.

Most often a combination of the two types of turning is adopted. That is, the wood is partially processed when it is green, then left to dry, after which it is finished, eliminating any deformation. In the case of bowls, roughing is done first, removing much of the wood. The recommendation is that the wall should remain at least 10% thick of the diameter of the bowl. That is, for a bowl with a diameter of 30 cm, the diameter of the wall should not be less than 3 cm.

Drying the bowl uncooked will be faster than if it were whole pieces. To slow down the water outflow it is recommended to protect with paraffin and wrap in wax paper. The object should be stored in a room with constant humidity and temperature, preferably a cellar. When the humidity has reached equilibrium, continue processing to the desired shape, eliminating any defects. Sanding, staining and waxing or oiling of the object can be done when it is clamped on the lathe, taking advantage of the rotational movement. The result is a much more uniform appearance.

The anatomical elements of the wood influence the process and the final quality of the object

The grain of the wood, how straight and uniform it is, the number and arrangement of pores, the medullary rays, the transition from latewood to earlywood, knots, growth defects, the existence of tanninsThe use of wood, oils or other materials influences the turning of the wood, the appearance and the behaviour of the object obtained. A straight grain will turn more easily, but a twisted one will produce a more spectacular object.

Exotic wood, full of tannins and salts that make it resistant to attack by the multitude of fungi and insects in their natural environment, is much more interesting and sought after for turning art objects or collectible pens/pens, despite the weight with which it is turned and the unpleasant surprises that can occur. Also in the same idea are chosen roots or bubbles from tree years. The difficulty of turning is offset by the unique appearance of the object obtained.

The strength of the object obtained depends on the wood grain and how it is positioned in relation to the lathe spindle. For objects that need compressive strength - table or chair legs, handles or tool handles, pilasters - the grain should be straight and positioned parallel to the lathe spindle. Bowls have a more interesting design when the piece of wood is positioned with the grain perpendicular to the lathe axis, but the strength is lower. The strength of the objects also decreases when defects such as twisted fibre or knots occur.

About the importance of wood anatomy in turning find here interesting material.

The choice of wood is also made taking into account the use of the object

It's clear that strength comes first with chair legs and beauty with bowls and vases. But the choice is also based on other criteria. Large-pored species are not recommended for items used in the kitchen, those that help with eating. Large pores allow liquids to be absorbed and over time objects acquire unpleasant odours. The way they are polished and sanded is also important.

For the special look obtained, sometimes also turnings are made by gluing several pieces of wood together. In this case it is very important that the wood has very similar weights and hardnesses. If the specific weight is very different, radial knocking may occur on the lathe, even if the clamping between the ends of the lathe has been done correctly. The different hardness of the pieces of wood will lead to problems in turning and finishing and to less pleasant looking objects.

Hand turning is a vast topic that I will definitely come back to. I hope the above information will be useful to those who are now discovering this hobby. Those of you who have already turned wood can share your experience, it would certainly be helpful. And those who have questions or queries can leave them below in the dedicated space. I will certainly answer them.