An old method of protecting and highlighting wood design is burning. It has been practised in various parts of the world, but it was the Japanese carpenters who perfected it. Shou Sugi Ban - burnt cedar plank, in translation - is a technique in which wood is burnt, brushed and cooled with water so that its surface is covered with a layer of charcoal. The water cooling is done in a controlled way so that the charcoal layer finally cracks in a certain pattern that gives the plank a particular aesthetic. But the main benefit of this burning is the very good resistance to attack by fungi, insects and fire. Exterior cladding, fences, shinglewood subjected to this technique lasts 80-100 years without maintenance. Find out why burnt wood is so durable below.
What happens when the wood surface is burnt
To understand why burning protects wood, we need to start with its main chemical compounds: cellulose, hemicelluloses and lignin.
Cellulose is the most important structural substance because it forms the wall of the wood cell, which determines its main physico-chemical properties. It represents 40-45% of the mass of anhydrous (completely dry) wood. Cellulose decomposes at over 150°C, a property on which alcohol is obtained by dry wood distillation. It is a food source for insects and micro-organisms and is very fond of water.
Hemicelluloses are very similar to the cellulose they accompany in the formation of the cell structure. Some are linked to cellulose, forming together the skeleton of the plant, others are linked to lignin. They account for 20-40% of the mass of anhydrous wood, are more unstable than cellulose, decompose faster, are a food source for micro-organisms and have a high affinity for water.
Lignin is a complex, amorphous chemical substance. It surrounds the cellulosic skeleton giving the wood rigidity and mechanical strength. The percentage of lignin in the mass of completely dried wood is 15-35%. Lignin is water resistant, transferring this property to the cell walls.
When the surface of the wood is burnt, the cellulose and hemicelluloses decompose and the food source for insects and fungi disappears. The percentage of lignin on the surface increases, leading to increased water resistance. Burning takes place in stages, with the temperature gradually increasing as the rapidly decomposing elements disappear. The first to burn is cellulose. During its burning, lignin gradually turns into charcoal. It needs a much higher temperature to burn completely and so the rest of the wood is protected until the charcoal burning temperature is reached.
Stages of the Shou Sugi Ban technique
The Shou Sugi Ban or Yakisugi technique, as it is still known, was used a long time ago, but flourished in the 17th century. At that time it was not only used to protect houses or fences but also to create real works of art. The advent of modern wood protection materials led for a time to the abandonment of the method. But it made a comeback in the 2000s, mainly thanks to designers and architects who combined the old method with modern materials to great effect.
The classical method has the following steps:
- Shallow burning using a torch or gas burner. Burning is done carefully so as not to char the whole wood but only its surface. The wood must be burnt, not scorched.
- Extinguishing the fire and cooling the surface with water.
- Brushing to remove soot and loose parts.
- Apply a layer of linseed or tung oil for increased strength and good looks.
In order for the wood to be strong on the outside it must be covered with the resulting charcoal. Such wood can last 80-100 years without any maintenance. Removing the burnt material completely loses its protective properties and only the aesthetic appearance remains. Controlled cooling (pouring water in a thin thread, dripping or pouring in large quantities) leads to the charcoal layer breaking up in various different patterns that enhance the aesthetic effect.
The main advantages of the method are very high durability and low cost. There are wooden houses in Japan finished on the outside using this method that are more than 100 years old, have not undergone any maintenance or repairs in all that time and are in very good condition. Another advantage is fire resistance.
Disadvantages include the laborious process that requires knowledge and patience, the unpleasant finish for some due to the charcoal coating, the risk of fire or injury from the open fire and steam released when cooling with water. Also, the impossibility of repeating the effect, obtaining a different coal-burning pattern each time, can also be considered a disadvantage.
Wood species suitable for the Shou Sugi Ban technique
The established species of the technique is cedar, but the method can be applied to most wood species. Some say that in this case the "cedar" (sugi) in the name should be replaced by the name of the species used. I think this is an exaggeration.
If we are referring to the application of the method to achieve different effects, not primarily to achieve durability, tangentially cut (cathedral, flader) softwoods look best. Spruce, larița, pin look great when burned, brushed and then stained. So does Accoya and Kebonyspecies which, due to chemical impregnation, have a high durability (30-50 years). The design is very well highlighted by burning, and the colouring comes in contrast to the black outline. You can see here examples of such finishes.
I hope you find the above information useful. As usual, additions are welcome. And if you have any questions or queries, please leave them in the space below. I'm sure I'll reply.
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Thank you for the information, it is very useful for my diploma work in woodworking engineering and in practice. I am passionate about wood and woodworking, have a nice day!
I'm glad it was helpful.
If you need further information you can contact me by commenting on any article or on mihaela.radu@cesrands.ro.
Good luck!
congratulations for the article,
very well documented, I follow with interest every article you publish.
I would like to ask what do you recommend to use in case of a pine wood treated by Shou Sugi Ban technique for surface treatment after it has been burned and sanded. I would like to mention that the wood treated in this way (naturally dried beforehand) will be used to finish a wood shed with direct exposure to sunlight. In this case the aim is to preserve the aesthetic effect but also the resistance to weathering over time. The construction is independent, therefore it is exposed to wind from all directions, not heated, not insulated.
thank you for your answer.
Thanks for your appreciation!
If the wood has a layer of charcoal on top, as the method assumes, all you need is oil. My recommendation is to use tung oil or Danish oil. Linseed oil is more quickly weathered out and therefore not recommended for outdoors.
If after burning and sanding, the wood grain is visible again and the burning is only aesthetic, you will need to use a complete exterior finishing system. In the link below you have some suggestions.
In my view, the best option would be an oil-based lard. Even if for outdoor varnishes the lifetime is longer, it depends very much on the environmental conditions. The construction being subject to wind, the dust will have an important abrasive role and will reduce this period significantly. With oils it is simpler because even if rain washes them away over time, the finish can be refreshed without much hassle.
Good luck!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2022/05/19/ce-variante-ai-pentru-protejarea-lemnul-folosit-la-amenajarile-exterioare/
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