When I present a finishing system, regardless of the nature of the materials, I am talking about coats of primer and lacquer. If it were metal, it would be commonplace and understandable to apply a coat of primer followed by paint. The primer is what protects the metal from rust. But what does primer have to do with wood? It doesn't rust! Firstly, they are not the same type of primer and secondly, to give a proper finish, the system must include both primer and varnish because each has a well-defined role.
Why use primer
The primer is formulated to have very good adhesion to the substrate, body and to sand easily. It should therefore be applied directly to the wood after it has been prepared in white. In order to achieve adhesion to the support, the primer penetrates as deeply as possible, anchoring itself as well as possible to the wood. Sometimes a very diluted varnish was used as a first coat. This penetrated deep into the wood, forming an anchor for subsequent coats. It was only a crisis solution that didn't always have the best results. For a grip Good primers, prepared in accordance with the technical data sheets, technologies or instructions on the packaging, must be used.
The second reason to use primer is the body content. The primer is formulated to load the film so that, after sanding between coats, a sufficient amount remains. You get a much more consistent coat if you apply 2-3 coats of primer and one coat of clearcoat than one coat of primer and 2-3 coats of clearcoat. The effect is most noticeable with large-pored woods. In addition, primer is cheaper than lacquer, so getting the finish right is literally a win-win.
The fact that primer is easy to sand is another reason to use it. When sanding in between coats for adhesion or for a nice film flow, if you sand (well dried) primer, the sanding goes smoothly without considerable effort and a fine white powder is produced. If there is varnish instead of primer and it has to be sanded, the operation is much more difficult because the varnish is specially made not to scratch. It will feel as if the sanding paper is stumbling and not sliding, as if the material had not dried properly.
If I'm still applying 2-3 coats of primer and the film looks good, why do I need to apply varnish?
Because primer is not formulated to have surface properties. It's not made to withstand being cupped with hot liquids, getting the film wet, scratched or kicked. Instead the varnish is formulated and tested to withstand just such assaults. If the clearcoat is not applied, stains, scratches and dents will appear after a very short period of use. In addition, varnish has a more pleasant look and feel than primer. Primer has no such properties.
We said in one of our articles that there are products that can be used as both a primer and a varnish, products called universal or background-finishing. Understand now that such products are only as "good" as the compromise made many years ago, when varnish was diluted to be used as a primer. Fondo-finish products can be used, but they don't provide the best finish you can get. It is, however, a matter of choice. As I always say, people don't always need Mercedes, sometimes they prefer Dacia Logan.
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Good evening,
Super your guidance. Thank you!
I have heard that you can also give the wood some oil and it would be better. Probably there are situations where primer + varnish is recommended and situations where oil is recommended. I would be very grateful if you could "clear up the mystery" for me.
Good evening,
Finishing with primer and varnish forms a film that protects the wood from mechanical action (knocks, scratches), but also gives it resistance to the action of dry and wet hot sources (hot cup of coffee or wet cup of hot coffee), cold liquids (water, alcohol, coffee, etc.), resistance to stains (tea, coffee, etc.) and humidity. There are standardized tests to determine the level of resistance of such a film (resistance level being from 0 - the weakest, to 5 - the most resistant). For example, the polyurethane varnish finish is level 3-4. The oil finish (linen, teak, Danish oil) protects against moisture, the other resistances are much lower. But it has the advantage of a very nice natural look, and the oil finish mentioned is an ecological finish. In conclusion, oil finishing is used when high physical, chemical and mechanical resistance is not required. There are many other things to say here about the hardness of the wood on which the oil is applied, chemically transformed oils (with hardening), etc., topics that I promise to develop in a future article.
I hope I have solved the mystery :).
Thanks for following us.
For priming (lime) wood panels for painting with acrylic colours, an acrylic primer is used. I think it would be even better if before applying the primer I would apply a thinned acrylic paint primer. What can you tell me? Is that okay? Thank you very much!
Hello,
In general, it's best to use products that were made to be used on wood, so there are no surprises. Wood primer might be too stiff, and if the wood has dimensional variations due to moisture, it can crack. But why would you want to use this primer? If you want to better block the pores of the wood, the deep absorption, you can do it with a first coat of very thinned acrylic primer, like a primer, let it dry and then prime as usual.
All the best.
Sarutmana! For a better adhesion of the primer to the panel I wanted to apply a primer first, but I understood from your answer that this primer penetrates just as well into the wood especially if the first coat is diluted. Thank you very much and have a nice evening!
Marian Jacob
Is priming the same as bathing? Thanks
No. Bait is a staining solution that stains wood and is applied as a coating directly to the wood. The primer is a film-forming substance, which is applied after drying the putty. It increases adhesion to the substrate, fills the pores of the wood. The varnish is the final film and is what gives the film its resistance to scratches, patches and knocks. It is applied over the primer as a final coat.
All the best.
Thanks for the magazines you send me!
I read them with passion!
Petre
Hello. I intend to clad the outside walls of a terrace with wooden panelling, given with baitz. Before this baitz, should I apply oil or wood primer, or is the baitz sufficient (the idea is to protect the panelling from snow/rain). Thanks
Hello.
In order to be highly protected they need to be better "covered". Bait is used for staining. What kind of bait is it? Has anyone recommended it to you? Can it be used outside?
In general, such protection should be done with a UV-resistant dip (impregnant, varnish). These are special materials but can be found in DIY stores. If the surface is more protected (e.g. an arrow), the application of this material would be sufficient. For better protection, apply oil or varnish, products that are outdoor resistant. Find more details here.
thank you Mrs. for the valuable information. I wish you good luck on your part.
thank you, too.
Good evening,
I want some advice. I have a house with all wooden joinery and I want to renovate it. Part of the touchie has become discoloured from the sun. How do you recommend me to protect it? Primer, linseed oil, varnish, varnish?
Thank you
Good evening,
I would have needed more data, but I'll try to answer it this way. If you don't want to remove the existing coating, degrease the existing touch (simply wash it with a cloth with water and detergent and wipe well afterwards), sand a little for adhesion (fine abrasive sponges) and apply exterior varnish in which you put up to 10% lacquer of the same colour as you have now. That way you will also have protection and you will refresh the colour. If you want to remove the existing coat, after removal apply impregnating agent of the desired colour and 2-3 coats of water based exterior varnish. You can also use synthetic products, but the water-based ones are more resistant over time. Linseed oil gives a very nice look, but is not very resistant over time. You should refresh the finish annually.
I may have misunderstood your request. In that case please give me more details.
Good luck!
Hello,
I would like to finish mdf slabs, for furniture fixtures. The way I thought of it is as follows: 2 coats of primer, 1-2 coats of enamel, 1-2 coats of varnish (all water-based, with fine glazing between coats applied with a paint gun).
The enamel I want to use strictly for color, colors I haven't found in any polish on the market.
I would like to know what you think about the painting method shown above (for some reason I can't find any information about varnish applied over paint, although I use protective varnish over paint when painting).
Thank you.
Hello,
You can use the proposed system, the important thing is to sand between the layers to have adhesion. It will be harder with sanding the enamel because, being formulated as a top coat, it has scratch resistance, so it sands harder. Water-based products have a cross-linking system that makes the varnish coat very well bonded, it behaves like a leather. If you don't sand well there is a risk that if it comes off in one place, you'll peel the whole layer. One option would be to use coloured primers over which to apply the clear lacquer. This is what I recommend to my clients because it is easier to sand.
Good luck!
Thank you. Now I have seen that pigment can be added to the water based primer (reading the technical data sheet 🙂 ). I would have one more question about purchasing wood. Mdf is very easy to find, but pine, lime, beech etc lumber much harder. I only want to make the doors out of mdf, the structure I want to make out of linden wood, preferably, or pine/beech. I went to Holver yesterday, they have lots of different types of timber but raw. Tivita and dimensioned have only construction pine with moisture 18%. My question is if you know where I could buy quality lumber for DIY projects, i.e. somewhere 1-2 mc-with delivery near Bucharest.
Thank you.
Good evening,
There are lumber yards selling smaller quantities. We bought for a project from a warehouse on the Chitilei road. There are several warehouses there. You can also try Hornbach.
Good luck!
Hello.I have some new wood interior doors,linden combined with fir.I would like to know what products to use to paint them white,with a nice gloss.I have read and I know I have to buy primer,but I don't know what kind of paint to buy(water based?).Thank you in advance,if you can advise me and if you have the time to explain to me what I have to do.
Hello.
If you make them yourself at home, it's better to buy DIY products from DIY stores. It is best if they are water-based. You would get rid of the smell left in the house by solvent products. At the beginning you should get white primer and white paint. My recommendation is not to get a very glossy paint. It is also hard to get a high gloss (mirror, as they say) and maintain it. The best is semi-gloss (you can also find it with the name satin).
For a beautiful surface, sand the doors with medium abrasive sponges beforehand, then apply the primer. After sanding apply another coat of primer. Let it dry completely and sand the surface well with fine abrasive sponges. Dust and apply the white paint. If necessary, you can apply another coat after the first coat.
The above indications are general. You should always read and follow the instructions written on the boxes.
There are products that work as both primer and varnish. In general, DIY products are made to make application as easy as possible. If no primer is needed it will be stated on the label.
Solvent-based products can also be used. They lift less wood fibre and sanding between layers is easier. But they have the disadvantage of odour.
Good luck!
Hello,
I am a small furniture manufacturer and I would like to know which is the best water-based interior varnish on the market.
2. do you have a monthly magazine, or only online?
Thank you:)
Hello,
I'm sorry, I can't tell you a particular very good lake, because I would definitely be doing someone an injustice. But I can tell you that the best products can be found at those who distribute special products for wood. The products in DIY stores are made to be used easily, at home, by anyone. The ones that are recommended for a furniture manufacturer, even a small one :), are the industrial ones.
The printed magazine appears twice a year, in September on the occasion of the BIFE furniture fair and in March. The rest of the time we are present daily with articles online. Articles are also distributed on our facebook page.
All the best!
Good evening! I intend to paint a wooden box for jewellery. I would like to give it a dark colour. What do you recommend me to use? Bait, primer, enamel or varnish?
Good evening!
It would be useful to know what wood the box is made of, to see which is the best choice. I'm trying to tell you what the choices would be though:
- if you don't want the wood to show use email. It's basically paint that totally covers the wood. A usual finish involves 1-2 coats of white primer, sanding after drying with fine sandpaper (280-320 if the enamel is matt, over 400 if it is glossy), then applying the coloured enamel. Being a DIY project, I suspect it's hard to buy a box of each material. In this case you can give 1-3 coats of coloured enamel, with sanding before the last coat (to get a smooth, smooth surface);
- if you want the wood to show, use bait, primer and varnish. You apply the putty as a first coat to stain the wood. After drying apply 1-2 coats of clear primer, sand after drying and apply the final clear lacquer. In this case you can also omit the primer.
- if the box is made of a beautiful hardwood (walnut, oak, ash, palindrom, maple, elm, etc.) use only oil for finishing. Do not stain (do not use bait) because you lose the natural colour of the wood. In addition, oil darkens the wood a little. Apply one coat, let it dry for a few hours (best overnight) and then apply another coat. You can use linseed oil or Danish oil.
Good luck!
Thank you for the information, it is of real use!
Hello,
I work on carved icons and solid wood ornaments, usually of rosewood. However, I have problems with the finish because the varnish (I used linseed oil based) darkens the wood and gives it too reddish a hue, with large differences on some areas of the piece. We try to produce in small series, as time and cost efficient as possible, using the most natural solutions.
My question is: what options do I have to protect the wood without radically changing its color?
Thank you
I don't know if this is your field but I have a question and I don't know who to ask. What minimum equipment do I need for a hobby workshop for small furniture construction?
Good evening,
About the minimum equipment in terms of finishing find more here.
About the woodworking machine workshop there will be an article soon on this very subject: the workshop of a woodworking enthusiast.
All the best!
Hello!I am a small workshop and I use nitro based paints and varnishes.What kind of primer do I need and where do I find it!Thanks!
Hello.
If you use nitro varnishes you can still use a nitro primer. You can get it from the same supplier where you got the lacquer.
Under a nitro varnish you can also use polyurethane or waterborne primer. It also depends on what you are working on.
For simple jobs, use nitro. Primer is cheaper and has a larger body. You'll sand easier, apply fewer coats and use less varnish.
Find information and here or here.
All the best!
Good evening! I want to wrap some concrete stairs with beech wood and plywood I bought. The question is what to put on the back to keep the moisture out.
I have given it with two coats of wood primer but I don't know if it's enough...should I give it with a varnish?
Good evening. That's enough, the important thing is to protect them. Even if you apply a thicker layer on the other side, there will be no tension due to the difference in the thickness of the finish layers, because the step will be glued.
All the best!
Good evening, I need some advice.
I am reconditioning a piece of furniture and I intend to bathe it with a turquoise solution, sand it and bathe it again.Of course, on raw wood. What I don't know is, if the next finishing product, over the baize, is primer, wax or varnish.
Thank you, you are a great help!
Hello,
After applying and drying the putty, apply primer first and then varnish or wax. If you use a universal varnish (primer-lacquer), it can be applied layer after layer without using primer. Such products are usually found in DIY stores. Wax can also be applied directly over the bait. Wax over varnish is rarely applied, only when a silky sheen is desired, which is obtained by polishing with a rag. Wax finishing is usually done directly on natural or varnished wood. What I don't understand is why you are sanding and sanding and sanding again. Do you want to get a special effect?
All the best!
Hello.
Please help me with some advice.I have in my house a hardwood floor treated with oil.I would like to refurbish it and varnish it.What should I do for the varnish to adhere well?
Thank you very much
Hello.
Depends on how long it's been since oil has been on the floor. If it is 2-3 years old and the appearance is of unprotected wood, a light sanding is sufficient, after which you can apply floor varnish. It is good to thin the first coat to get it as well and deep into the wood as possible. If the wood is dry, sanding is only necessary if the wood is rough.
But if the oil is still present it is good to sand the surface well, with coarse paper first then with a thinner one, then wipe the surface with thinner. After drying you can apply varnish (first coat more diluted).
It is best to check with your floor varnish supplier (or check the label) if the varnish is compatible with oil and can be applied to oiled surfaces. If this is the case there is no need for vigorous sanding.
All the best!
Thank you
Thanks for the very useful article!
I do have a couple of questions:
1. With what grit size sand the wood primer between layers?
2. Is wet or dry sanding recommended?
3. If I need to prime all the sides of a wooden board, can I leave it to dry on pyramid supports? (the less visible side...)
Thank you!
Good evening.
1. Recommended 280-320 for matt lacquer finish and 400 and above when the final lacquer is glossy. For matt you can go down to 240 if 280 is not available.
2. The sanding between layers is usually dry.
3. You can do this as long as the layer is not thick because there is a risk of spillage. But isn't it easier to do them one at a time? That way drying can be done without the risk of defects.
Thank you for your appreciation.
All the best!
Thanks for another set of valuable information!
I asked about wet sanding because at 400 and finer grits it is often practiced (in automotive, for example) and I prefer to ask rather than assume 🙂
I will follow your advice, including applying and drying on one side and then the other.
All the better,
Thank you once again!
Wet sanding is used for the final gloss varnish. Very fine-grained abrasive solutions (1000, 2000, 3000) are used to remove the dust trapped in the film and obtain that high gloss. It's called polishing. This is how you get the shine of musical instruments or high-gloss furniture. After polishing, no further coating is applied.
All the best!
Hello,
I tried to go through all the comments to make sure I wasn't repeating myself with my question, but I'm asking it anyway, I hope I'm not bothering you with it:
I have an outdoor handyman (a patio in the back of my recently purchased house). It had a thick coat of paint applied that over the years has deteriorated. I cleaned the paint off the wood with a flex and smirgle cloth, restoring its naturalness.
My question is: what should I use now to protect this wood for a longer period of time (of course I will maintain it periodically afterwards)?
Thank you in advance for your help.
Hello!
In my opinion the best option is oil. Especially if you are willing to maintain it regularly. I recommend the oil varnish because it contains a small amount of pigment that protects against UV radiation. Plain oil protects very well against humidity, but not against UV. Information about finishing with linseed oil can be found at here
All the best!
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Thank you!
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Thank you very much for your advice.
Good luck with this great initiative you are undertaking.
Hello!
I'm a small furniture manufacturer and I have some problems with sanding, and I don't know how to fix them.
I use wood panels in lamba that I make myself. So the planing occurs, and after planing to thickness on the surface of the wood arbitrarily small pieces of sawdust are printed under the feed roller. These remain as indentations of about 0.5mm on the surface of the wood. After sanding everything is nice and straight, but in the areas that have been deepened the wood is under tension, pressed.
When I apply the baths, primer, varnish, all water-based, there it loosens and reaches the normal size, appearing on the surface of the wood as some blisters.
What should I do? The defects are small, they are not visible in the raw, when sanding I have nothing to change, a friend taught me to wipe with a wet cloth before sanding, but I don't seem to have the courage, I don't want the panels to warp.
Good evening.
My colleague is right. You can dampen the surface and you will see better. If the bath you apply is water based there will be no problem. For a solvent based dip you have to let it dry very well or you can do the wetting with the dip thinner. It is more difficult because it evaporates very quickly.
The panels will only rot if you run a wet rag over the wood. You don't have to wet it, just dampen it. The operation will lift the wood grain more and you will have to sand better after the first coat of primer to have a smooth surface.
All the best!
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Thank you!
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Indeed the fiber has risen, but there are also a lot of stripes left by the pinching of the knives. Now I'll be able to sand them better!
Thank you!
Hello. What do you recommend for painting a newly fitted bag? I used resinous wood panelling. Thank you
Hello.
Waxed varnish or oil-based varnish for outdoor use. You can find them in DIY stores.
All the best!
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Oofff.. Please help me a lot. I have a piece of walnut furniture that I wanted to refurbish. I sanded it and then painted it with sadoline thinner based varnish (white) in 3 coats. Then at 1 coat I found that it is no longer white, it is a very light yellowish, about the colour of butter. Probably the colour of the base has gone. What can I do now because I want it white? Can I give it another coat of primer, then varnish again? Thanks
Good evening!
Surely the thinner attacked the bottom layer and the color migrated. You can apply a white water-based paint. The water won't attack the bottom layer so you won't have any problems with the colour. Sand beforehand so that the paint has adhesion. It will be a little harder to sand because the layer is paint, but you don't have to sand vigorously. Do a light sanding with fine abrasive sponges.
Good luck!
Okay. I will. Thank you very much!
Hello!
Please help me with some advice on lacquering a new backgammon box, the chess part is already lacquered, the wood is made of Medias but now I doubt, as it looks processed inside.
THANK YOU! Ovidiu.
Hello.
I don't understand what you mean when you say that the wood is from Medias.
If there is no finish on the inside you should sand lightly before applying the varnish to have a smooth, non-sticky, non-scratchy surface. Use fine abrasive sponges. Get water-based varnish from specialist shops. After wiping the surface free of sanding dust, apply a coat of varnish with a brush. Let it dry until the next day, sand again very lightly (without removing the varnish completely) and apply another coat. If the varnish does not spread well and there are brush marks, dilute a little with water. Not too much, max.10%.
You can also try boiled linseed oil or spiced linseed oil. You need to apply 2-3 coats, drying for 24 hours between coats, and you need to wipe off the excess (that doesn't get into the wood) because it becomes sticky over time. After each application (with a cloth or sponge) let the wood absorb 10-15 min, then wipe off the excess with a soft cotton cloth. Unlike varnish oil does not make a film.
All the best!
Thank you!
Hello!
for the siding of a house, the part that remains visible on the outside, what do you recommend?
Thank you!
Good evening! Please help me with some advice. I recently had my concrete staircase covered in wood and asked for a whitish bait similar to the one used on the upstairs floors and matt varnish to be applied. The company that did the work used the proper grout, but applied a gloss varnish that gave them a sheen and changed their colour, they became more yellowish. Now the steps no longer look like floors. What could we do? Can the steps be scraped/sanded after they have been glued? Can I apply another coat of bait + matt varnish over the varnish already applied?
You have passed on advice before and it has been helpful. Thank you!
Good evening!
To soften the gloss - to make them more matt - a coat of matt varnish can be applied after a light sanding. But if you want to change the colour you have to remove the finish down to the wood. You can also sand the steps after installation, but this is more difficult and requires great care on the walls and where it is not possible with a machine, the operation should be done by hand. Regular floor varnish changes the colour of the bath by yellowing it. Solvent-based acrylic varnish or water-based varnish should be used.
There are also semi-transparent white varnishes. These are best for keeping the colour white. You can try to change the current colour of the steps by applying a coat of this varnish. Try it first on a less visible spot to see if you are happy with the result.
All the best
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Thank you!
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Hello. What is the difference between primer and wood paint? (I mean the acrylic, water-based ones). My understanding is that primer is a kind of base coat over which paint is applied for colour and varnish for protection. Is this correct? I have seen in some comments that you apply primer and then varnish, why don't you also apply paint? I have an old wall hanger (a large panel on which the pegs and a mirror are fixed) made of brown glossy wood. I want to make it white. Are there any products I can paint it with without having to sand it? Please if you can give me a small summary with the order of operations. I've never done this before. Thank you very much.
Hello!
Primer is a material that is given before varnish or paint. It has the ability to adhere very well to wood, it sands well and has a larger body (more solid substance that remains on the surface after the solvent evaporates), meaning the layer deposited is thicker. Varnish and paint are both final coats that are applied over the primer. Varnish is transparent and paint is opaque (you can't see through it, it covers completely). Varnish and paint have surface properties: scratch resistance, impact resistance, chemical resistance, tinting and good appearance, etc.
Finishing with primer and varnish is a professional finish that is mostly practiced in factories. Professional materials are also used there, with more special application or sanding conditions. In the case of DIY finishes, as in your case, it is not always mandatory to use primer. There are varnishes or paints that can be applied layer upon layer to achieve the desired effect.
In the case of your coat rack, the best solution is a chalky paint, for example Annie Sloan. They can be applied over the existing finish without sanding. You only need to clean the surface of impurities and dirt accumulated over time by washing with water and detergent or soap. Dishwashing detergent is best. After washing, wipe well and then you can apply the paint.
In the case of Annie Sloan paints you will need to apply 2 coats, with drying in between, but no sanding. After the second coat is completely dry you should apply a protective wax coat. For more information look for the articles dedicated to Annie Sloan paints in the magazine (search: annie sloan). Also, in the September 2018 print magazine there is, described at length, the transformation of an old table using Annie Sloan paints. You can still subscribe to get your hands on last year's magazines. The link is below.
You can also use (washable) wall paints, but you should check the adhesion beforehand. If the surface of the nail is not porous enough, the adhesion may not be very good. To make it stick well you can add a small amount of aracite (2-3%) to the paint.
All the best!
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Thank you very much. It was a mini lesson for me but very useful.
With pleasure! Glad to be of service.
All the best!
Hello,
I have a question: on a cherry countertop I want to use epoxy resin as a finish. Can I use primer before (are they compatible?) or is it not necessary?
Thank you in advance
No need. They are compatible, but under epoxy resin you don't need primer. For good scratch resistance, you can apply polyurethane varnish over the epoxy resin.
All the best!
Good evening,
What happens if I put metal primer on wood?
Hello.
I am not a metal finishing specialist, but I think from a chemist's point of view. A metal primer has a different way of sticking to the substrate compared to a wood primer. In metal the primer sticks to the surface, whereas wood primer goes into the wood, it is absorbed. Applying metal primer to wood may result in a weaker adhesion. To increase it the primer should be thinned. This way it will be able to penetrate the wood.
Another feature of metal primer is protection against oxidation, rusting. This is not the case with wood and it may be that blocking wood with high humidity with this primer will lead to stresses in the wood (due to the moisture that tends to escape). I think this too can be solved by applying a thinner coat.
I repeat, this is what I think might happen. I have not tested dedicated metal products on wood. Conversely I have tried, and the results, especially with polyurethane paints, have been very good.
All the best!
Hello! In the case of embedding in epoxy resin (or varnish) a countertop with a humidity of approx 20%, is there a risk that the wood will work over time, given that it will maintain its humidity? Thank you!
Good evening!
It will not work because it is totally insulated in resin and does not exchange moisture with the environment. Plants or insects with much higher humidity can be covered with resin without anything happening.
All the best!
Hello,
I would need some advice on how and in what order to apply the grub/bait/lacquer. I am currently trying to recondition the door hinges. They are quite old, from the 1940s :). Over the years they have been painted several times without being cleaned. I stripped off the paint with paint stripper and then sanded the holsters with 60 - 80 grit. Now I've come to your site and from what I'm reading I realize I didn't do very well.
I don't want to paint the holsters, I would just like to darken the wood shade.
Do I need to sand again with a finer grit? Is the sanding done after the primer?
I saw that there are 3 in 1 colored lazines, are they ok?
Thank you very much!!
Hello!
You've done well so far. This is how to remove old paint layers. Now you need to sand the wood with finer sandpaper, 180-220 grit. Then apply the wood stain in the desired colour. I understand from your post that you want to darken the colour of the wood. You can use water-based or solvent-based wood filler. Before applying the next coat, the filler must be well dried. Beware that sometimes water based baths, even if dry, migrate into the water based lacquer, tearing as they say in production. If the application is done with a brush it is possible to "stretch" the colour.
After drying, the primer should be applied and then the varnish. This is how it is usually done in factories. For DIY projects you can also use varnish alone. They are specially formulated for such projects, to be used as simply as possible. Read the lacquer label and unless another product is recommended to be applied underneath, you can apply it over the bath without any problems. After the first coat, sand with 280-320 grit sandpaper to make the surface as smooth as possible. Sand and apply the next coat.
The 3 in 1 coloured varnishes are the best example of a DIY product (mentioned above). To keep it simple, the product contains dye, insect and fungicide protection materials and varnish. Such lacquers are used for finishing outdoor wood (pergolas, fences, garden furniture, etc). If the wood is outdoors, you can use it. If they are indoors, I do not recommend it. Use varnishes for indoors. They are more scratch resistant and tougher.
All the best!
Hello, please help me an advice. I want to clad a concrete staircase with wood (beech boards-laminated, I think lamellar is called). The question is how do I protect these steps:
1.I apply 1 coat of linseed oil on all sides of the wooden board and then apply 2-3 coats of varnish?
2.I apply only 2-3 coats of varnish on all sides?
Is the treatment of the wood done before or after the installation of the steps?
Thank you!!!
Hello!
1. If you apply oil as a first coat, you can only use alkyd or oil-based varnishes, which are not very hard. Apply oil only if you stick to this varnish, which is very good for moisture protection, but the mechanical resistance of the wood does not improve much. If you want a better resistance to scratches and abrasion, use only water or solvent based floor varnish, 2-3 coats.
2. If the ladder is mounted and the boards are already fixed, it can be applied only on the visible side. There will be no problems with bending the boards because they are already fixed.
It is rarely done to treat the wood before the staircase is installed, but if it is done, it is better to apply varnish on both sides, because there is a risk that the board may bend due to the different tensions on the sides. If the board is fixed this risk is eliminated.
If you are worried about moisture getting into the wooden steps from the support on which they are mounted, you can oil the face that comes in contact with the support. But you have to be careful with the application because normal varnishes for parquet (water-based or solvent-based) do not adhere to oil.
All the best!
You can also find out more about your favourite topics in printed magazines. You can still subscribe to receive magazines published in 2019 by clicking on the link below.
Thank you!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/product/abonament-2019/
Hello, thank you for your answers and please give me some more guidance.
The wooden steps aren't installed yet and the concrete of the stairs is 3 years old ( I think it's already dry enough). The staircase is located in an inhabited space with no major temperature or humidity variations.
1.In this context, is it right to stop flax oil treatment?
2. Do I also need to apply a primer before varnish?
3. Doesn't applying varnish to the underside of the wood board decrease the adhesion of the one-component adhesive?
Thank you for your answers!
Hello!
1. You can quit. Provided you do not have, as you said, large variations in humidity.
2. The correct system is with primer and varnish. The primer provides good adhesion to the substrate and a thicker film and the varnish has superficial properties (no scratching, harder to fade, pleasant appearance). This is how it is done in the factory. For DIY projects, however, there are varnishes that can also be used without primer. They are easier to apply and the results are quite good.
If you want a professional system, you will have to follow its application guidelines, which are stricter
3. Depends on the adhesive and the thickness of the varnish layer. The adhesives used for bonding tiles are quite strong, even if they are one-component. However, the varnish layer should not be thick and have good adhesion to the substrate. If you varnish the steps before fixing, just apply a layer of varnish (or primer) to even out the faces a little.
All the best!
Hello.
Thanks a lot for all your articles.
I have recently started making solid wood furniture.
I have a lot to learn.
I also bought a CNC.
Please advise me for a fee with some information
Please provide a phone number. of yours.
Good evening!
Thanks for your appreciation!
You can contact me at mihaela.radu@cesbrands.ro.
All the best!
Hello! I used 180 grit sanding compound for sanding wood paneling and some pine stairs inside. They were not given with anything before. Is it correct to use colourless primer, then apply varnish? Or is it necessary after applying the primer to sand? Or what do you recommend? Is it also possible to apply with trafalet?
Thank you in advance!
Hello!
Graining is good and yes, after sanding you can apply primer and then varnish. It is good to sand after the primer, especially if it is water based and with hardening (type A+B). Sanding will remove the wood fibre that has risen due to the water used as a solvent in the primer (with solvent based products the fibre rises less) and will increase adhesion, very useful if the primer is with hardening. You will get a smooth surface, pleasant to the touch and with good adhesion. Sanding should be done with fine abrasive sponges or 280 or 320 grit abrasive paper if matt or semi-matt varnish is used, or 400 grit if gloss varnish is applied.
Application can be done with a trowel. Use a stiff sponge pad to avoid introducing too much air into the film and thus avoid an unpleasant, scratchy cough of the varnish. If you use solvent-based varnish, make sure that the sponge of the squeegee is solvent-resistant.
Good luck!
Hello,
I have read many comments on this page, but I can't find anything that helps me in what I am trying to do.
We want to do a small decorating project and could use some help on the finishing side.
We have a wooden circle (plywood), laser cut in a certain shape and want to spray paint it gold (it's a DIY).
What would be the right steps to have an aesthetic and lasting result?
Initially, we spray-painted this circle one colour and realised that we had to sand first, then we thought that a primer and then the gold spray would be advisable. But we are not so good at doing a correct series of steps.
Thank you in advance!
Hello!
For a beautiful surface you must first sand the surface, insisting on the cut areas. Sanding is done with 180 or 220 grit sandpaper or a medium abrasive sponge. After sanding sand and apply paint. Spray paints are made for easy application. In this case you need to achieve a surface that is very pleasant to the touch right from the sanding phase. If, after applying and drying the paint, the surface is rough to the touch, sand the surface very lightly with 320 grit sandpaper or a fine abrasive sponge and apply another coat.
The primer and varnish system is more complicated and it is good to have some experience. If you sand well you will get a nice surface with spray paints too.
All the best!
Thank you very much for your answer!
If we still want to get complicated, in the idea that we want to do more projects like this and get the job done as well as possible, can you recommend an article or starter? So that we can still have some correct steps, to start at least theoretically on the right foot 😀 .
I tried to find an article on this topic, but there isn't one. As a result I decided to write it this week. 🙂
There are lots of articles on finishing, but none of them show in small steps, for someone just starting out, how to do primer and varnish finishing. By the time this article appears, you have a few more suggestions.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2020/03/25/7-defecte-de-lacuire-sau-vopsire/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/05/23/ce-lacuri-folosim-pentru-protectia-lemnului-profesionale-sau-diy/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/05/30/ce-sfaturi-as-da-unui-incepator-in-ale-finisarii/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/10/17/5-sfaturi/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/05/16/evita-sa-dai-straturi-multe-sisau-groase-de-lac/
Hello,
I want to rebuild some furniture and please allow me to ask your advice. I have veneered furniture that has been varnished, I don't know exactly with what kind of varnish because with regular cleaning it stays on the rag, it seems to go down. I would like to renovate it. I would like to use water based coatings, considering it is in the bedroom. The steps would be sanding (what grit?), 2-3 coats of primer (what do you recommend?) and then final paint (what do you recommend)? What would be the stores best stocked with primer and water based paints that will adhere to veneer and lacquer furniture fixtures? Thank you!
Hello!
If it is taken away when you clean, either it is expensive, or the lake did not have adhesion, it broke over time and now, when rubbed with a rag, it falls off. The wax makes the rag dirty, while the varnish shows up as little bits and dust like broken plastic (or broken glass).
To refinish, if it was waxed before, you have to remove it because wax is the final coat and no varnish can be applied on top because it has no adhesion. To do this, wipe the surface with universal thinner, sand with 150 or 180 grit sandpaper and wipe again, very well, with thinner. If it is varnish, if there are still varnished areas, you must remove the varnish there too because it will fall off in time, even if it is varnished again. Sand the surface with 100 grit sandpaper or use a paint stripper. Personally, I would try sanding because the way it shows up, it won't be hard. Finally sand the entire surface with 150 or 180 grit sandpaper or a medium abrasive sponge.
Buy the complete system, i.e. the primer and varnish that are recommended to be used together. In general, on the lacquer label, there are instructions for use where it is mentioned which type of primer can be applied. Two coats of primer are sufficient, apply 3 coats only if the varnish to be used is glossy or the wood has large pores and you want to cover them (walnut, oak, ash). You can apply the coats of primer without sanding each one but only at the end, before the varnish. Sanding is done after the primer coat is completely dry. It is best to leave it overnight to dry completely and sand the next day. Sand the primer with 280 or 320 grit sandpaper (min.400 if you are going to apply gloss varnish) or with a fine abrasive sponge. This sanding is very important for a nice look and feel. At the end, sand well with a rag.
The final varnish or paint must be compatible with the primer, which is why we recommended using the complete system. I don't recommend to be very glossy because it is hard to get a beautiful surface and very hard to maintain. It is sufficient to apply one coat.
You can get the products from DIY stores (Dedeman, Hornbach, Brico Depot, MAM - if you are in Bucharest, etc). Quality products and useful tips can be found at the distributors of wood varnishes and paints manufacturers: Sirca, Ica (Lomilux), Sayerlack, Renner, Milesi, Sikkens, etc. Look for distributors in your locality and contact them. You will also receive expert advice on the correct use of materials.
All the best!
Good find. I've been going around and around the same issue for a week or so. I've done a huge amount of reading but I'm still not clear on what to do. I'm planning to make picture frames/wood frames in the following way: fir wood base, over which I apply wood primer, sanding before and after, and now the problem comes in.
I've seen that I can paint over primer by mixing white washable paint with acrylic paint for painting, from that by the tube, the tubes contain small amounts of paint and are cheap, so I can get many shades. much cheaper than buying paint by the can. Mixing with white washable paint I do it in the idea of dusty, pastel shades. My question is: after the acrylic paint thus obtained, what protective finish can I apply?
As the project in my mind is ambitious, I also bought two professional silicone moulds in which I poured plaster. I will of course apply the ornaments to the frames. Please tell me the steps to work on, from the white wood to the finished product, decorated with plaster ornaments. What confuses me the most is that I don't know what to use over the acrylic paint, so that I don't risk either peeling the ornaments or the paint. I glued the ornaments directly to the white wood, then applied wood primer, but not to the ornaments, which are also very fragile.
Thank you very much in advance.
I applied the desired shade over the dried and sanded primer
Hello!
I haven't worked with wall paint on wood, but I think it can be coated with wax and varnish. The problem is that both change colour (it turns yellow very easily). Being a final coat it could be left uncoated and for better adhesion you can add acrylic in the paint. You can however use white, water-based wood paint. It can be mixed with acrylic paints for painting, it can also be applied over plaster trim and you don't have to protect it with anything, the colour remains unchanged. To make the ornaments less brittle, add aracet to the plaster mixture.
I am thinking of the following technological process: first make the ornaments with added aracite (5-10%) and glue them on the wooden support. Sand everything, including the trim, which should hold up very well. If they are still brittle, increase the percentage of aracite. Sand, prime and sand again. Finally, apply coloured paint to the entire frame.
Good luck!
Sorry, I forgot to ask you another question about varnishing painted melamine surfaces also with acrylic painting paint mixed with washable paint.
many thanks again.
I think the grip will be very low. Melamine or veneer surfaces absorb very little and the paint will skip at the slightest bump. Here too, the aracite added to the paint can help, but it depends on how glossy and smooth the melamine surface is. You can use chalky paints, which you coat with wax. The problem here is the price. There are also special paints for application on melamine. A reader told me about a paint of this kind, Oskar, which she found in DIY stores. I've seen that it can also be bought online.
All the best!
Thank you so much for the guidance. Yes, chalky paints may be wonderful, but they increase the price of the final object a lot. I'll try Oskar. All the best, you have been a real help to me.
Good evening! I have been reading your advice and guidance for a few days, which I find great, so I dare to ask you to guide me too. I recently started to refurbish a piece of furniture (wardrobe / chest of drawers with cabinet) in my family's possession for over 80 years (I do not know its real age) and abandoned, unfortunately, in a warehouse for a few years. It is made of solid walnut wood and shows some damage in places, the wood has dried out with small cracks appearing, previously it was treated I believe with a bait/oil which gave it a black appearance. So far I have managed to sand/sand it with a medium grit sandpaper and make small repairs. Initially, I intended to restore it to the way I knew it as a child (dark/blackish) and had proposed to treat it with a primer, then apply a dark silicone bait/lacquer, but underneath the black layer that had corroded and deteriorated, I found a beautiful wood essence that I'd like to keep as natural as possible, so I'd like your advice on how to proceed - to apply just a linseed oil based product (I found a Vinarom linseed oil based primer on the market) in 2-3 coats, would that be enough? Should I sand with a fine sandpaper between applications? Thank you very much for your answer!
Hello!
Congratulations on the idea of saving the furniture. From what you tell I believe it is walnut furniture finished with saddle. I think it was glossy, like pianos were, for example.
You are already advanced with the work and have handled everything very well so far. I appreciate the idea of leaving the walnut "out in the open". From my point of view, the finish that best enhances the colour and grain of the walnut, its natural design, is the oil. But use a good oil. Consumption is low and it's a shame not to get the most out of this venture. The most beautiful walnut oil is tung oil. It is indeed expensive. Danish oil is another very good choice. Danish oil is a mixture of tung oil and linseed oil. It is made by various companies and the price varies greatly, depending on the percentage of tung oil. Don't get the cheapest one. Linseed oil is also good. To dry faster it needs to be boiled or spiced. That's how commercial oils are. The different prices depend on the purity of the oil, which gives it its beauty, its pleasant silky sheen. Most commercial oils (the cheap ones) are synthetic. I think the natural ones are more beautiful, more suitable for an old piece of furniture.
For the first layer of oil, medium grain sanding is good because it will make the wood absorb better and the oil will reach deeper and "feed" the wood. Apply in excess, let it absorb 30-45 min. and wipe off the excess. If you don't wipe it off it will become sticky. Let it dry for 24 hours, sand with a fine abrasive sponge or 280 or 320 grit sandpaper and apply another coat, as on the first. Don't forget to wipe off the excess each time. If you see that the wood tends to absorb more, apply a third coat. After drying, for better protection, you can apply furniture wax and polish it with a soft cotton cloth. But it can also remain just oiled.
The Vinarom product you mention sounds like it also needs another product on top to be resistant. No primer is recommended as a top coat.
For more information I have also put some links to articles about oils and oilers.
Good luck!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2016/11/01/uleiuri-naturale-pentru-finisarea-lemnului/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2019/04/17/7-reguli-de-respectat-la-finisarea-cu-ulei-a-lemnului/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/05/15/ulei-de-in-cand-unde-si-cum-se-foloseste-cum-sa-ti-faci-singur-vopsele-de-ulei/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/01/15/danish-oil-ulei-finisare-lemn/
Good evening, please advise me; I want to order a wooden countertop to put the sink in the bathroom, what do you recommend? Solid wood, laminated, laminated? I really like oak! Which is the most recommended and how can it be treated for moisture in a bathroom? THANK YOU!
Hello!
Laminated wood comes first. It is stable and has the appearance of solid wood, the grain is continuous with a pleasing natural pattern. Laminated wood is stable, but has the disadvantage of discontinuity of the wood pattern. Solid wood has a very pleasing appearance, but there is a risk of cracking and dimensional variation. The highest price is for laminated wood and the lowest for laminated wood. The price of solid wood depends on the species and size and can exceed that of laminated wood.
Oak is a good choice because it is tough, hard-wearing and has a nice appearance. Very similar is ash, but it is lighter in colour. Acacia is a very moisture resistant wood, but because it is hard and hard to work with, it is less used for furniture and interior design.
Since the countertop will be in contact with water it will need to be protected. You can do it with polyurethane varnish, water-based varnish or oil (tung oil, Danish oil or linseed oil). The countertop must be protected on all sides, not just the one on which the sink will sit. The ends must be well protected because that is where the absorption is greatest.
All the best!
THANK YOU from the bottom of my heart!
Hello Mrs Radu
I intend to build a carport. For protection I would need ..... ?
The wood is not old, therefore not very dry. What would be your recommendation, so as to ensure a longer term protection? I don't want a strictly economic solution, but I want it to be as reliable as possible!
Yours sincerely
Hello!
Because the wood is not yet dry, you should finish it so that moisture exchange with the environment is possible. If you use varnishes for finishing, it is possible that movement of the drying wood will lead to cracks in the film and compromise the film.
I would use oil-based lacquers or paints for the finish. The wood will be able to dry without affecting the finish. If you use quality products (Kreidezeit) the durability of the finish can be up to 6-8 years (depending on how dry the weather is in the area). And to refresh the finish, just apply another coat of varnish or paint.
All the best!
Hello,
I came across your site by chance and read with interest many articles, as I soon want to start a diy project and I'm trying to research it. I am passionate about DIY, I do small works and projects around the house, so I can not consider myself a craftsman in the field, and in the area of woodworking I have never worked, please help me with some advice.
I want to make a wall refacing with vertical wooden slats. I will use raw mdf as a support panel, and the slats will be made of dried and planed fir or pine (price considerations). Although I have ideas for the technical solution of the assembly, the painting part is worse. I would like the look to be as natural as possible, the model that I would like to achieve is oak. As I don't have a dedicated space (the work will be in an apartment), I would prefer to be able to paint the panels after assembly, directly on the wall.
Reading your recommendations and other comments I understand that I should apply a coat of primer, finish it and then a coat of matte varnish would work (I'd be interested in a matte-sidefat look, I don't like glossy). However, there are so many products on the market that I can't figure out which one I need. It would help if you could give me an idea first of how I'd like to proceed, if it's correct, and what materials I could use to get the desired result (keeping in mind that it's a personal job, under the conditions exemplified, I don't expect perfection, but I'd like it to still look good). Thanks in advance!
Hello!
I would use coloured oil (a lazure). You get the natural look, no sheen and it's not hard to apply. I would recommend Kreidezeit, natural products that I have used. That way you also solve the problem of applying at home, without strong and harmful smells.
As for the application of the oil, you can find instructions in the links below. If you want a silky sheen, you can apply wax over the oil to polish it.
Very important for the success of the finish is the sanding of the wood, it ensures uniform absorption and a pleasant stain. Wood sanding should be done with 180 or 220 grit sandpaper or medium abrasive sponge. After sanding, the wood must not stick when the hand is run over it. Apply oil after sanding with a cloth.
Good luck!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2019/04/17/7-reguli-de-respectat-la-finisarea-cu-ulei-a-lemnului/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2020/09/03/vrei-sa-folosesti-ulei-sau-ceara-pe-lemn-dar-vrei-sa-fie-si-colorat-e-posibil-sa-ai-nevoie-de-pigmenti/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2016/11/22/finisarea-lemnului-cu-ceara-cand-merge-si-cand-nu/
Hello,
I would need some advice on finishing some spruce interior doors. Can linseed oil (for deep protection of the wood) and varnish (for surface protection) be used? Or do you recommend primer and varnish? Which varnish would you recommend in this case?
I also wanted to ask you how you recommend finishing the floorboards and panelling made from spruce.
Thank you very much for your articles and valuable advice.
Have a nice day!
Hello!
If you use linseed oil, you can only apply alkyd varnish over it, which has white spirit (petrosin, gas) as a thinner.
But I think a more suitable finish would be an oil finish from Kreidezeit or Danish oil, which have tung oil in their composition. They make a film and protect the surface well.
If you want a finish with greater resistance to mechanical action, scratching and impact, my recommendation is to use polyurethane varnish.
For panelling - which is not subject to strong mechanical action - linseed oil or a normal water-based varnish can be used. For the floorboards you can use Kreidezeit floor oil or water-based floor varnish. We have assumed that the floorboard is fitted and using water-based varnish gets rid of unpleasant odours.
All the best!
Hello.I have built a pine cottage and we have not treated the wood.I would like to know the steps to follow for water based painting,against mould decay and other insects and then primer , lanzura , varnish , their order for the exterior.
Hello!
The first layer is the protection against decay and fungi. Insecticide products are usually concentrated and diluted with water depending on the type of wood. In softwoods (fir) the dilution is higher. Application with a pump or spray gun is more effective because the substance also reaches more hidden places. After drying apply the stain/lacquer impregnant. This is a product that only stains the wood. Sometimes it also contains insect repellents, but few also have an anti-scale treatment. The next coat is the primer and finally the varnish. These are the steps of a professional treatment. DIY stores stock easy-to-use materials such as lacquers that can also be used as varnish. They are a kind of 3-in-1 product containing the impregnant (stain), the insect-fungicide solution and the varnish. They are easier to apply but less resistant.
All the best!
Hello!
I'm in a bind and I really need some advice. I have hired a flooring specialist to refinish an old solid oak floor that has been well maintained. He machine sanded the surface with various roughnesses, but no longer primed, he went straight in with a water based varnish that went in deep, then buffed and gave another coat of varnish. At the moment the varnish coat now in some areas has gone in more than others, it being satin, some areas appear duller in the light. Should I give another coat of varnish? He says it's risky, I don't know how well the wood is protected considering that he skipped the primer on the grounds that it's better.Thanks in advance...
Good evening!
There are varnishes that can also be applied without primer. They are a kind of primer-lacquer. If it was such a varnish, a third coat can be applied. But the entire surface must be sanded thoroughly beforehand, otherwise the adhesion to the previous coats is poor and the varnish may peel off. This lack of adhesion is also amplified by the polishing that has already been done. The problem with water-based varnish is that when it peels off, it doesn't crack, like solvent-based varnishes, but takes the whole layer like a skin.
The difference in gloss may be because the polish was not mixed well before application (the wetting agent is heavier and settles) or the polish was not applied evenly. A fresh coat applied correctly can solve the problem.
All the best!
Thank you very much for your advice. Besides your impressive knowledge it is amazing that you have dedicated yourself and responded to everyone. Now, I don't have such high hopes. However I come with a question in 2022, years after you wrote this article.
Let's start....
I treated a garden shed with water-based primer https://www.dedeman.ro/ro/grund-pentru-lemn-pe-baza-de-apa-oskar-incolor-2-5-l/p/5013665 then with paint.
From this experience I learned that the primer changes the colour of the wood. Some pieces of wood turned yellow or even pink! Of course... I covered everything with paint and it doesn't matter.
However, I have now purchased outdoor furniture from IKEA and clearly need to treat myself.
They say they gave it "a few coats of varnish", but the truth is that that wood absorbs super much water and after a good rain I found myself with parts of it curled up.
Now I'm wondering... how to proceed?
Shall I... clean it with a little water with dishwashing detergent then give it a water based lacquer (their recommendation for annual maintenance) or try priming, maybe even more coats, then lacquer?
Clearly... I wouldn't want to wake up with all my furniture a different color after the primer treatment and shy away from it, but I want to give the furniture the best chance and I don't want to worry about it sitting outside.
What would be the best combination?
Good evening!
Thank you for your appreciation too!
Even if you don't have high expectations, I still answer. 🙂
Being for outdoors, that primer definitely had some pigment built in for sunlight resistance. All outdoor products, regardless of the company, are made that way, even if they are transparent. The slight tinge of pink is also found in professional paints.
IKEA furniture, even if it doesn't look like it, is always treated with water-based primer to protect it. But the coating is very thin and doesn't completely seal the pores, so the wood absorbs moisture.
I would go with their version, but more layers. Wash the furniture as you said and apply the recommended lsculent. Let dry 1-3 hours and apply another coat. It should have adhesion with no sanding between coats. If it is not enough, apply another coat the next day. For good protection, apply to all sides of the wood. Normally, for good resistance over time, wood elements are finished before being mounted.
You'll get good protection from the water and being the lake they recommend, I think from the sun too. The varnish is likely to contain UV absorbers and a small amount of white pigment.
Check the varnish manufacturer's recommendations beforehand to see how it should be applied. It may require a longer drying time.
This version seems to me the closest to keeping the furniture in its original colour. With other products you will change the colour, either because of the oil contained, resins or pigments incorporated.
Good luck!
Good evening please kindly tell me I sanded a table that was given with veneer with what primer I can give it (something water-based ...) considering that I want to paint it Annie Sloan white color water-based thank you !
Hello!
I suspect it is a veneered table that has been varnished or painted. Veneer is a wood veneer that sticks to a panel.
Annie Sloan paints are a little different, they don't need primer. They can be applied over old coats of paint without sanding. But the furniture must be thoroughly degreased beforehand. Basically, wash with water and dishwashing detergent, then wipe.
Apply 2 coats of paint, with drying between them, then fix the paint with wax. It is mandatory to fix it.
Below are links to articles explaining how to work with Annie Sloan paints.
Good luck!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/01/23/vopsele-cretoase-annie-sloan-chalk-paint/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/02/21/transformarea-mobilei-cu-vopsea-pe-baza-de-apa-annie-sloan-chalk-paint/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/03/12/ceara-annie-sloan-protejare-patinare-tehnici-de-aplicare/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/12/18/te-gandesti-sa-ti-vopsesti-mobila-amanuntele-pot-face-diferenta/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2017/07/25/cum-poti-transforma-simplu-vechile-piese-de-mobilier/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2020/04/23/vopsirea-si-lacuirea-sfaturi-pentru-incepatori/
Good evening,
I would like your guidance in a situation of cleaning a wooden countertop. The countertop is made of oak and has been overcoated with Sadolin primer (2 coats). Even after 4 days the surface has not dried and is sticky. How can I clean the wood so that it does not remain stained and I can continue the varnishing process?
Thank you!
Hello!
I'm guessing the primer is solvent-based alkyd and the coats were thick. Unfortunately you will have to remove all the primer. You can do it with paint remover that you can find in DIY stores. How to do it is described at length in the link below.
After completely removing the sticky primer, wipe the wood surface thoroughly with a thinner cloth, allow to dry and resume finishing by applying thin coats and respecting the drying times between coats recommended in the instructions on the box. Information can also be found in the product data sheets that manufacturers usually have on their website.
Good luck!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2022/09/08/cum-sa-cureti-cu-decapant-straturile-vechi-de-vopsea/
Hello!
I bought wooden steps to cover my concrete staircase.
They are made of resin.
I bought products from Oskar's store... wood primer ( water based), Lazura ( oak-wood), and Yacht 3 in 1 clear varnish.
I sanded the steps, primed them with wood primer, one coat, then at 24 hours, I gave the first coat of varnish, and at another 24 the second, followed at another 24 by the first coat of varnish.
Where did I go wrong, because in places the lake is shaped like an orange peel, it looks strange!
How can I fix it?
Thank you very much!
Hello!
Orange peel occurs if the applied layer was too thick or if the bottom layer was not well dried. It should be sanded to remove the orange peel and another thin coat of varnish applied, thinned 20-30% to spread very well. There may also be some incompatibility between coats due to the silicone contained in the lacquer.
Although they are recommended for both interior and exterior wood, the materials you use are primarily for exterior use and are not a good choice for stairs. You should have chosen a system consisting of plain wood stain (which you apply as a first coat), primer and floor varnish. Exterior materials are more elastic and do not have the abrasion resistance and hardness needed for floors and stairs. In addition, products such as 3-in-1 lacquers and varnishes are made more for use alone so that finishing is as simple as possible.
Below are links to articles that might be helpful.
Good luck!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2016/04/06/defect-de-finisare-coaja-de-portocala/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2021/03/18/am-colorat-parchetul-cu-lazura-iar-lacul-aplicat-deasupra-s-a-exfoliat-unde-am-gresit-si-cum-pot-remedia/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2019/12/11/de-ce-nu-se-foloseste-lacul-de-interior-la-exterior/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2023/02/09/10-recomandari-pentru-pelicule-de-lac-perfecte-pe-lemn/
Thank you for your answer!
Can you recommend exactly which products I should buy, so that I don't buy them at random?
I also want to find the oak shade (for boys)
Thank you
In DIY stores (Dedeman, Brico Depo, Hornbach, Leroy Merlin, etc.), in the paints area, you can find water-based or solvent-based paints in various colours. You can also find primer and varnish for parquet here. There are water-based or solvent-based. If the steps are already installed, it is recommended to use water-based products.
In smaller shops, wood product retailers or online platforms you can also find professional parquet products with better appearance and resistance. Some brands: Bona, ICA (Lomilux), Renner, Remmers, Sayerlack (Golda), Sirca, Milesi, etc. These have stricter application rules that you have to follow, but the results are superior.
For most products you can find the technical data sheets on the web. It is recommended that you study them because they describe how to use them, problems that may arise, incompatibilities.
Thanks for your advice and patience!
Oskar's suffered me so:
1. to prime the wood first, and then sand lightly (solvent based)
2. to give the Oskar oak-coloured lick, first hand, then lightly sanded...
3. to give a second coat of bath, and then lightly sanded
4. to give the first coat of clear parquet varnish, then sand lightly
5. to give a second coat of varnish (Oskar super transparent parquet), and the job is done.
How do these steps and products seem to you?
Is it oki to give the primer before bathing (lick)?
Thank you
I have my doubts about the laziness. Lazura is not a plain varnish, it has various resins in its composition that could decrease the adhesion of the floor varnish. They probably don't have a simple bath. But if they say it works that way, you should have no problems. It's still a manufacturer's recommendation.
He recommends primer as the first coat precisely because it is not a simple stain but a lacquer. The advantage is that the primer regulates the absorption into the wood and the colour comes out more uniform. Be careful, with each coat applied the colour darkens and the wood fades, covering, the finish becomes semi-transparent. This effect does not occur with a plain wood.
If you can, try the proposed technology on a separate piece of wood. This way you can check the final appearance and also test the behaviour of each product. It's an extra activity that can save you the trouble.
Good luck!