Am vorbit cu cineva despre grinzi din lemn și finisarea lor și m-am gândit că este o bună ocazie de a vă da câteva sugestii privind atât modul cum pot fi folosite pentru decorarea casei, cât și cum pot fi finisate.
photo source: classiccountryvacationhomes.com
The beams were used for building houses fără să fie luat în calcul rolul lor decorativ. Se foloseau trunchiuri de copaci zdraveni, decojiți sau prelucrați sumar. Pe grinzile montate pe stâlpii de rezistență se sprijinea acoperișul casei. Dacă pereții „înghițeau” stâlpii de rezistență în zidărie, grinzile rămâneau de multe ori în exterior, scândurile tavanului fiind bătute din pod peste grinzi.
photo source: rilane.com
Și acum se folosesc grinzile din lemn ca structură de rezistență. Acoperișul, amenajarea unor pasarele de trecere sau a unor attic, scările interioare, toate au nevoie de susținerea unor grinzi puternice.
photo source: remodelingcalculater.org
Din ce în ce mai mult, în ultimii ani, se încearcă reproducerea aspectului de vechi sau crearea unui efect sau a unei atmosfere speciale folosind grinzi din lemn. Pot fi folosite atât pentru a face o amenajare rustică, cât și la o construcție modernă.
photo source: houzz.com
photo source: doityourself.com
photo source: benvenutiandstein.com
Dar, spre deosebire de trecut, acum nu se folosesc întotdeauna grinzi reale, dintr-un trunchi de copac, ci grinzi aparente, dar care seamănă foarte bine cu suratele lor mai bătrâne. Vă vine să credeți că această grindă veche, chiniută de vreme, este de fapt o grindă aparentă făcută doar cu câteva zile înainte?
Cu astfel de grinzi se poate schimba foarte mult aspectul unei locuințe. Marele lor avantaj este că sunt mai ușoare decât grinzile din lemn recuperat sau din trunchiuri de copac, ușurând foarte mult sarcina aplicată pe tavan. Este însă foarte important cum se face finisarea lor, dar și cum sunt montate. Dacă veți urmări filmulețul de la final o să vedeți schimbarea adusă încăperii de acele grinzi foarte bine făcute și montate.
Dacă vă doriți, puteți face singuri finisarea grinzilor. Important este să știți că va fi ceva muncă. Dacă nu sunteți arhitect sau designer, ar fi bine să vă consultați totuși cu unul pentru a alege finisajul. Poate să vă placă foarte mult un anume finisaj, dar el să nu fie potrivit pentru casă. Iar finisarea unei grinde este destul de dificilă si, o dată montată, va fi greu să o mai schimbați.
Cel mai simpu mod de a finisa grinzile este colorarea lor în aceeași culoare cu tavanul sau pereții.
photo source: homebunch.com
Dar o culoare contrastantă le va scoate în evidență și le va pune în valoare ca elemente de design.
photo source: zillow.com
Indiferent de culoarea lor este necesară aplicarea a 1-2 straturi de lac protector. Nu vă trebuie aparatură specială pentru o astfel de aplicare. Se poate face cu trafaletul, important este să găsiți lacul potrivit. Din punctul meu de vedere, cel mai potrivit ar fi un lac hidrodiluabil cu gradul de luciu scăzut. O grinda care lucește pare puțin falsă, dar fiecare poate alege ce variantă crede că se potrivește cel mai bine.
photo source: wunderwords.wordpress.com
Also from my point of view, the most interesting way to finish the beams is antichizat, învechit. Este adevărat, se pot folosi grinzi recuperate din case vechi sau făcute din lemn recuperat. Sunt însă voci care spun că este mai bine să se folosescă grinzi noi cu aspect vechi, aducând ca argumente contaminarea cu insecte sau metale, greutatea mare, pierderile de material din cauza nepotrivirii dimensiunilor sau imposibilitatea de a ști cât vor dura, din cauza faptului că nu se cunoaște proveniența.
Aspectul învechit trebuie obținut pe lemnul natur, înainte de aplicarea culorii sau a lacului. Îmbătrânirea lemnului poate fi făcută prin perierea lui cu peria de sârmă sau prin cioplire cu tesla, depinde ce efect vă place mai mult.
photo source: newenergyworks.com
photo source: wholesaletimber.com
photo source: wunderwords.wordpress.com
Se mai pot face și alte semne folosindu-se unelte simple care pot zgâria, înțepa sau tasa lemnul. Mai jos aveți o sugestie de astfel de scule. Dar pot fi folosite și altele, important este să obtineți cu ele niște semne cât mai realiste. Cel mai mare dușman al antichizării este obținerea unor semne false.
photo source: lowes.com
După pregătirea lemnului, grinda poate fi finisata cu ceară,
photo source: canadiantimberframes.com
or with baiț în diverse culori, după care se poate aplica lake.
photo source: canadiantimberframes.com
Finisarea grinzilor ca proiect DIY nu este un lucru foarte greu, important este să găsiți materialele potrivite, iar varianta aleasă să se potrivească cu restul casei. În rest, satisfacția de a fi reușit singuri o să vă facă să uitați rapid efortul depus. Succes!
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[...] ever how much I love those low, low English country houses, with their large wooden beams[1], blackened by the weather, which a tall person could easily bump into, [...]
Dear Mrs. Radu, you seem to be a mind reader! Mine for sure !
Thank you for the register you addressed!
Hello, can you give me an idea of how I could mask some exterior beams that have cracked badly?
There are support beams on a patio and a terrace. They have been painted, but have cracked quite a lot and the visual appearance leaves something to be desired.
Good evening,
Cracks in the beams have a special charm and there are many who prefer beams like that. If you still find them very unsightly you can use wood putty. Cover the crack with a larger amount than necessary (to leave a small mound on top). During drying it will shrink. After complete drying sand the surface until you reach the wood level. You can stain and varnish the area without any problems.
All the best!
good evening! can you recommend a certain putty?
Hello
The terrace at the entrance to the house rests on two fir posts (beams), which now seem a bit thin compared to the proportions of the house. Seeing an article in the magazine on Japanese wooden architecture, I was thinking of boarding/plating these beams with oak planks, up to a height of 1.6 m to apparently increase their thickness .
My question is: Can covering the fir beams with oak wood affect the wooden beams supporting the deck and contribute to their decreased strength?
Thank you.
Good evening,
It won't hurt. I've also consulted with a structural engineer to be sure. The added weight isn't so great that it affects the structural strength.
All the best!
good article!
Hello, can you tell me a company that makes such beams?Thank you!
Hello,
How could I keep the natural look of the pine wood (panelling), bearing in mind that no matter what kind of colourless varnish I use, the wood will still darken in colour? Is there a treatment for natural wood, or is there a super colourless varnish that won't change the colour of the wood? Or a bath? I haven't found it yet. can anyone help me?
Hello!
The varnish that best preserves the natural colour of the wood is acrylic varnish on solvent. It is used for coating ash wood or bleached wood. The colour does not stay the same, but it is much closer to the natural look.
Another solution is to use a dip that, coated with varnish, will lead you to the desired colour. It can only be done by repeated trials on pieces of wood similar to the one you have.
But you have to know that pine wood will yellow over time regardless of the situation. It begins to change colour as soon as it has been cut. Even if you use UV-absorbing varnish a slight colour change will still occur.
All the best!
I would like to add a slight inconsistency between the older articles, where you recommend the use of old wood, and the present one where you recommend the use of new wood. A practicing admirer.
Hello!
I wouldn't want it to be misunderstood and thank you for the opportunity to clarify. I will always be for reclaiming wood when possible. It is a way to use it responsibly. But there are situations when using reclaimed wood is not the best idea. One of them is the weight of old ceiling beams. This does not mean that the beam cannot be used for a table or bench.
It is good to recover wood whenever possible, to repair wooden objects if possible or to change the use of some if we are inventive.
Thank you for following us!
Hello,
Thanks for the wonderful articles. I'm just furnishing a loft cottage and want to keep the fir beams visible. I will try to do the finishing DIY or better yet PDV day (First time ever after the famous show). Please help with the steps of finishing these grids. Being a small space that will also cover a small bathroom and a kitchenette, I am thinking that the beams should remain as light (natural) in color as possible. What should I do? Sanding? (they are raw as they were cut by the gater and are already mounted up). primer? Lacquering? I would be grateful if you could also recommend 1-2 products. Thank you.
Good evening!
Thanks for your appreciation.
The best solution in this case is, in my opinion, oiling. It is simple to apply, gives a natural look and lets the wood exchange moisture naturally with the environment. Most beams crack over time due to the stresses in the wood caused by moisture exchange with the environment. As a bathroom and kitchenette you will have moisture variation. The strength structure will not be affected, but a film of varnish will crack. With oil this is excluded.
You can use boiled linseed oil, Danish oil, natural oils (Kreidezeit) or other oils you can find in the market (they are mixtures of natural and synthetic oils). It is good to sand beforehand to better control absorption and for a pleasant appearance and cough. Sanding is done with a medium abrasive sponge or 180-220 grit sandpaper. The oil is applied dry with a rag, brush or brush, left to dry until the next day and another coat applied. You can apply 2-3 coats. At the last coat, after 20-30min, wipe off the excess because if it is not absorbed into the wood it will remain sticky.
More information about oil application can be found in the links below.
All the best!
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2019/04/17/7-reguli-de-respectat-la-finisarea-cu-ulei-a-lemnului/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/05/15/ulei-de-in-cand-unde-si-cum-se-foloseste-cum-sa-ti-faci-singur-vopsele-de-ulei/
https://revistadinlemn.ro/2018/01/15/danish-oil-ulei-finisare-lemn/
The beams have been fitted since last year in May and have already defended smaller or larger cracks (a finger fits) as you said. How will the fir beam behave after oiling in terms of shade? Of the proposed solutions (linseed oil, danish, natural oil) how do they change the final shade and how do they behave over time?
Would the recommendation of boiled linseed oil, danish oil or natural oils be in order of price? Boiled linseed oil and spicy linseed oil is the cheaper solution. Which product do you recommend or which criterion is an indicator of quality? I found the one from policolor at 19lei/l, it is worth considering. Which Kreidezeit do you recommend for coating beams?
Will oiling protect wood from pests?
Thank you.
Hello!
Let's take them one by one:
- after oiling the wood looks like it is wet. It doesn't change colour, it just gets more accentuated. That's if the oil is not coloured. But resinous wood changes colour over time, whether it is finished with oil or varnish. The colour becomes more yellowish. The process occurs immediately after the tree has been cut and is accentuated by sunlight, UV radiation.
- The oils, unless stained, are not very different on the wood. They just accentuate the natural pattern and colour of the wood. If it were a tabletop, I would choose in this order: Danish oil (if it's the original recipe one with tung oil), natural oil, linseed oil. Tung oil is the best and most beautiful oil for wood. On the tabletop it would have a very nice satin sheen (if well wiped off at the end) and a nice sheen. Since it's beams, I'd go with the cheaper option (of the three) because there's no more cough.
The price differences in oils are also due to the actual oil content, which penetrates and protects the wood. Cheap oils have (often cheap) solvents and other substances that have no protective role. The purity of the oil is also important. If it is an unpurified oil its transparency is diminished and this will show on the wood.
- Danish oil can end up being the most expensive if it has a high percentage of tung oil.
- Policolor linseed oil definitely has synthetic oils in the mix. The drying agent adds chemicals that accelerate drying. Since you will be using it on beams, it is fine.
- Kreidezeit products are natural and very good. I have worked with them. The oils are blends of natural oils in which linseed oil predominates. I would use Resistant Oil without solvent. But this is a top, natural, very healthy oil and the price difference is significant. If you have considered Policolor oil, Kreidezeit oil will seem too expensive.
- Oiling does not protect the wood from pests. To avoid problems with infestation, it is best to treat the wood with specific undertones. You can find them on the market, they are generally called "antiques protection". But if the wood is already infested (it has decay galleries, fresh wood dust appears at the small holes or a specific gnawing noise) this treatment is not effective, you need a much harsher one.
I hope I hit all the points. 🙂
All the best!
Thank you. When does pest protection apply? Before starting the finishing (sanding, oiling)?
After sanding, before oiling, so that the wood absorbs as much as possible. If you use a water-based protective product, after application, allow it to dry for a few days before applying the oil.
Good luck!
[...] can build with wood. Using oak beams, you can make a frame supported on supporting joists exactly like the one above. On the beams [...]