A simple and handy way to age wood

A weathered fence reminded me of an old method of getting that gray color specific to wood that has stood outside. I was at a furniture factory when I saw the fence and couldn't resist taking a photo. I thought it was beautiful because of the added charm of the passage of time, the rains, winds and snows that have beaten it over the years. Aged wood has an added value and that is why there are ways of trying to 'age' wood artificially.

The method by which we can age wood is, as I have already said, simple and handy. I think I mentioned it once before, but without elaborating on it. It involves treating wood with a solution made from vinegar and steel wool. Any kind of wood can be treated with this solution. The more tannic and darker-colored species, such as oak, acacia or cedar, take on the gray color typical of aging without needing anything else. The oxidation of the wood, for that is what it is, takes place as a result of the reaction between the solution and the tannins.

For light-colored, tannin-free woods such as pine, fir, spruce, the reaction must be helped. The best source of tannins is black tea, the kind in sachets, which if you don't have it at home you can certainly find very easily.

Before starting to describe the method, I would like to remind you that another effect of ageing wood is its structuring, the highlighting of late wood, which is harder and more resistant than early wood, which macerates faster. This structuring can also be done artificially with wire brushes or by sandblast. As sandblasting requires special equipment, it is harder to do at home. With brushes, however, things can be done, even if it involves more physical labor.

Ordinary, hand-held wire brushes or rotary brushes that mount on the drill can be used. The wires should not be too thin to avoid scratching the wood and giving it a false appearance, but they should not be too thick either. After brushing, the wood is sanded with abrasive sponges to remove the broken grain and give it that natural, melted look.

But back to the vinegar solution. Steel wool is recommended because it has a fine thread and is attacked more quickly by vinegar, but you can also use one of those metal dish sponges without any problems.

Place the sponge in a 400 ml glass jar and pour 9 degree white wine vinegar (apple cider vinegar can also be used) over it. Put the lid on and leave for at least 24 hours. The solution can be used even sooner, but it is weak and the coloring is inconspicuous. If left longer, stronger solutions are obtained which color the wood more intensely. After the 24 hours the sponge is removed from the solution which can be kept with the lid on and used when needed.

The solution is applied to wood, structured or not, using a brush. If the wood is tanned, apply and allow to dry. After drying, the wood will take on a bluish-gray color. If drying in the sun the change is even more obvious. If a darker color is desired, repeat the operation.

In the case of light-colored, tannin-free wood, make the tea first. Put warm water and 2 tea bags of black tea in an ordinary glass. Leave for 20-30 minutes, then apply with a brush to the wood. Leave to dry and then apply the vinegar solution with a brush. After drying, the grayish-gray color, typical of unprotected wood left outside, will appear. The operation can be repeated if a darker color is desired.

The smell of vinegar will persist after drying and can be removed by wiping with a damp cloth. In practice, the wood can be washed. After washing and drying, the effect can be protected with varnish, wax or oil, or a coat of paint can be applied. For a weathering effect the paint must be partially removed. If the wood is textured, the paint can be removed before drying with a spackle.

If the surface is straight, it is sanded after drying in such a way that the paint is removed in some places and the surface turns gray. This method is called distressed and is widely used here.

At the end the effect is protected with lake, oil or wax. For the most natural look I recommend wax. If you use a colored wax (dark walnut) you will not only protect the surface but also give it a patina.

Wood aged in this way is very reliable. The method only works on clean wood. If you want to age a piece of furniture this way, it must first be cleaned. According to total removal of finish coatsj method can be applied without problems.