There are generally two types of people who work with wood: those who enjoy the actual process of creation (here I refer to the satisfaction of making a Swallowtail jointswhen straightening a wooden plank using manual rinse) and those who like to see their project completed. I try to balance between the two, using such a device on smaller projects or when time is not my friend.
A year ago, my first project in carpentry was made with joints like pocket hole. Loosely translated it would be "pocket hole". Because I know of no synonym for this type of joint, and because its loose translation simply doesn't lead us anywhere near to what it represents, we'll simply call it pocket hole.
In 1986, Craig Sommerfeld was in the process of building his house and had to find a quick way to attach the frames to the kitchen fixtures. Although he was a machine builder and carpenter by necessity, Craig had a problem. Unwilling to attach the housing frames by nail-nailing with a countersunk head and then covering with putty, he designed and built the "pocket hole" template. This template allowed him to attach the frames inside the housings where the joint could be hidden.
How does it work?
The pocket hole joint involves drilling a hole at an angle of 15 degrees in the material to be machined and then attaching the second material with screws. Such devices can be found in DIY stores or online.
The drill with which the hole is made is a special one. The top of the drill is narrow to guide the screw and the bottom is wider to make the 'pocket hole'. The section where the two sides meet is flat (very important).
This section is where the head of the bolt is "seated", thus creating a strong joint. Equally important are the screws used, they must necessarily be self-drilling with a flat head.
After the joint is made, depending on the application, the gaps can be filled with the following variants:
- The first and easiest is to use putty in the colour of the material.
- The second option is similar to the first. Mix sawdust with wood glue and use a trowel to even out the gap.
- Plugs found commercially, with sizes between 12-38 mm. They come in a wide variety of shades. Adhesive is applied to the stopper, and after fixing it in place, the excess can be removed with a level cutter.
- Same as above, except instead of plugs, dowels are used.
Clearly comes the question "how strong is such a joint?".
In 2015, Matthias Wandel, a well-known online carpenter, performed a series of strength tests on a joint of the type pocket hole. In order to make the result relevant, the same tests were carried out on two other types of classical joints: dowel joint and notched joint.
Two pieces of spruce were used for each test, measuring 59 mm x 17 mm, with the joint being jointed (end on edge).
| Type of joint | Breaking force (Kilogram force - kgf) |
| "Pocket hole" | 44.9(*) |
| Joining with dowels | 69.4 |
| Cep and notch | 91.6 |
(*) Using wood glue the result was 50.3 kgf.
Advantages
- Wood glue is not required;
- There is no need for complex calculations and measurements as in the case of a socket and socket joint;
- Minimal financial investment;
- The applications can be endless. This type of joint can be used from a simple frame to a wardrobe;
- Time saved;
- Very low learning curve.
Disadvantages
- The joints are not as strong as the classic ones;
- Filling gaps so they are not visible;
- Less satisfaction.
If you are passionate about the DIY concept and have a minimum of tools (self-tappers, clamps and a "pocket hole" device) with joints like pocket holeyou can achieve a multitude of projects. Good luck!
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I have seen on youtube such "tools" and look, I am astonished to learn that they are also found in our country. I would be glad if you could tell me how much a drill and a pocket hole cost, and if there are different sizes (I mean the thickness of the drill and the diameter of the pocket hole). Thanks in advance, M
I bought a set last year, at a price between 120-150 ron (I don't remember exactly) from Wolfcraft (the one in the picture in the article where there are two guide systems, the one on the left, the simpler one). The set contains the pocket hole guide (adjustable to the wood thickness), the special drill with stopper (also adjustable), a long bit, about 10 cm, with PH2 head (I'm not sure, but it's crosswise), some screws of different sizes, but with normal head, not flat (flat head is better, but it works too) and some dowels. I guess it doesn't rise to the level of a Kreg fixture, but for smaller projects around the house it's OK. It only has one drill bit and I haven't seen any other drill bit sets of different sizes (actually I haven't found any other sets with us) but there are DIY videos on youtube just for making the drill bit from a regular wood drill bit.
Interesting article, it's a nice job, thanks.
Where are the flat head self tapping screws for pocket holes? In the Wolfcraft Undercover Jig box there are socket head screws, which are useless (the wood cracks or the joint is not rigid).
I've searched countless websites, but I've only found (and use) 3.5mm diameter pan head screws without self-drilling; I've tried 4mm diameter screws, but the wood often cracks.
[...] As the material used is MDF and the joints are not visible, we opted for the "pocket hole" type. [...]
yes, it is interesting, and I am of the opinion that the usual joints are more resistant, in my opinion it is not worth spending 200-300 lei for a pocket hole device, you can easily make one and get away with 20-30 lei maximum, I did and it is good - do not forget the wood work and the joint with only the screw will yield, I recommend to use and 6-8 or 10mm dowels depending on the requirements with quick coupling and you will have a perfect joint that lasts long - good luck!!!