What wood is suitable for tool handles/knobs and how to finish them for safe use

Even though I mentioned in the articles dedicated to each species of wood, which of them are suitable for tool handles or handles, I did not consider that an article on this subject would be of interest. Until a few days ago when I was asked how I think tool handles/knobs should be finished. In answering the question, I realized how much could be said about the choice of finish, the properties of the wood being used or the importance of a suitable handle. And so the article below came about.

The handle/shaft of a tool is more than just a way to hold it. What would an axe, hammer or saw be without a handle or shank?

It has always been thought that the invention that made mankind evolve was the wheel. Recent studies have shown, however, that the invention of tool handles was an equally important moment. Handles allowed people to perform a wider range of movements, to use more muscle groups, and thus impart greater force and speed to the tool. Even though the use of the handled tools required more effort, the results were far greater than the effort expended.

These findings came from a study of a group of volunteers who were given simple tools or tools with handles and asked to perform routine tasks such as chopping a piece of wood or a tree, for example. The study was carried out by researchers at the University of Liverpool, and the results supported the idea that, discovering the benefits of adding a handle, humans invented more and more such tools which led to the spread of civilisation.

Historical studies and research aside, it is now very clear to us that it is the shaft that gives the axe the power to split wood and the hammer the power to drive the nail. Without the handle, the back-and-forth movement of the saw would be almost impossible, and shovel, spade or rake work without shanks would be infinitely less efficient.

Which wood is suitable for handles or tool handles

Not every species of wood is suitable for tool handles or handles. The wood used must have strength, flexibility and durability. In the case of the hammer or axe, where the striking force is high and there is recoil, the handle must be able to withstand large shocks without splitting, cracking or warping and take them without transmitting them to the user's arm. The grain, texture, pore size or tannin content of the wood are also important, as are the design, dimensions or finish of the handle.

Below are some of the most commonly used species for making handles or tool tails:

• frasin - perhaps the most used species due to its very high shock-absorbing capacity. It is flexible, does not crack or splinter. The only drawback is its low outdoor resistance. That's why outdoor tools should be stored carefully, away from rain and moisture. Suitable for axe shank or hammer.

• oak - the higher the density the better because it absorbs much of the impact shock, reducing user fatigue. Unfortunately, it has a tendency to crack which is why it is recommended more as a saw or knife handle. Outdoor resistance is very good. The existence of tannin can cause the metal blades to rust, so they should be protected.
• maple - a hardwood used to make baseball bats. It does not absorb shock as well as ash, and the user often feels the blows. On very hard impact it tends to split along the grain.
• birch - Known for its very high shock absorption capacity. It does not have the cracking tendency of maple and is resistant to the outside.
• carpen - hard and abrasion-resistant wood, but less elastic. It has been used to make tool handles since ancient times. Low outdoor resistance.
• fag - hard, resilient and easy to process wood. It holds up well over time, but has low outdoor resistance. It is very suitable as a saw or chisel handle.
• cherry - is used for its fine appearance and special colour. However, it is softer than other types of wood and less resistant, being prone to breakage. It is recommended as handles for tools that are not used intensively.
• nuc - is a wood that is distinctive in colour and design, but fragile and prone to cracking and splintering. I mention it though because its beautiful appearance, especially after oiling, leads many to use it. It is recommended for non-impact tools such as knives or batteries.

The appearance makes many exotic species, such as mahogany, to be used for the handles of collector's tools. The high cost, however, limits their common use.

Why any finish is not good

To work well with the tool, the handle must be the right size and shape, grip well in the hand, not slip, have a grip and not have sharp edges or beaks that sting during use. It must also have the ability to absorb hand moisture (sweat) so that it does not become slippery and release it when the tool is at rest.

As a result, varnishes, glossy paints and highly polished surfaces, which reduce the grip of the hand on the handle, are not recommended. Thick film finishes are not a good choice either because all the sweat accumulates and becomes annoying, even dangerous during use.

The most suitable finish for tool tails and handles is oil. It does not create a film and allows the wood to absorb and release moisture from perspiration. It can be used linseed oil, tung, Danish oil or any other combination of natural wood oils. There are specialists who recommend shellacbut not that high-gloss finish - French polish. Before application, the wood should be sanded thoroughly to remove roughness that could scratch the hand during use.

I hope you find the information interesting. As usual, additions are welcome. And if you have any questions or queries, please leave them in the space below. I will certainly answer them.