The best materials for protecting wooden kitchen worktops

Cis the best way to protect a solid wood kitchen worktop? The answer is hard top oil, tung oil or hardening varnishes (polyurethane, acrylic). But it's a question whose answer needs more detail. Because kitchen tables and worktops have to withstand different conditions from the rest of the furniture in the house. Their finish has to be resistant to scratching, knocks, high humidity and temperature, stains from hot or cold liquids, alcohol, wine or coffee. Kitchen conditions impose conditions not only on the finish, but also on the wood and the glue used for gluing.

Tough kitchen conditions demand tougher finishing products

Not all finishes have the same surface properties. Some will bleach in prolonged contact with water or steam and will flake off or peel quickly if in permanent contact with a water source. Others scratch very easily, sometimes even larger dust grains can cause problems. Finishing products are generally thermoplastics, but some soften very quickly in contact with hot sources. Their resistance to solvents also varies. Some have no problem if wiped with alcohol, while others soften as soon as they come into contact with alcohol. And the examples could go on.

Kitchen conditions are the most difficult in the home because all of the above challenges and more are possible. In a functional kitchen there are sources of steam, countertops may come in contact with hot sources that may be drying or wet, there is the possibility of water, hot or cold, standing for a long time on the finished surface. Surfaces may be subject to scratching or rubbing, they may come into contact with alcohol or substances that can stain them - fruit or vegetable juice, coffee, wine. This is why we cannot treat the finish of kitchen worktops in the same way as any other piece of furniture.

Wood properties are as important as the finish

As a solid wood kitchen worktop, the species is also important. The wood chosen should be a hard wood with good scratch resistance (oak, pine, ash, beech). The finish, however good and hard-wearing it may be, is still a fine grain. If the worktop is subjected to mechanical shock - knocks, scratching, denting - the finish cannot stand up on its own if the wood cracks.

Moisture resistance is also important. No matter how well finished, there will always be places where steam or moisture can penetrate the wood. Low moisture resistance can lead to fungal infestation which means compromising it. Mold stains appear, the wood becomes brittle in some areas and gradually we realize that it should be replaced.

The best materials to protect wooden kitchen worktops

Let's take them one by one. Ceara not recommended. The film formed is not resistant to scratching and abrasion, it softens easily if it comes into contact with a hot source, it is not resistant to solvents, it stains easily. It also does not protect well against soiling, as the harsh conditions in the kitchen cause it to become soaked.

Oils. Linseed oil not recommended. It is easily removed by water and the finish needs to be redone quite often, even every 6 months.
Tung oil is a good choice. It resists moisture very well and forms a film resistant to mechanical action. It must still be applied patiently, in successive coats, to ensure a good quality film.
Danish oil  is also a good choice. The condition is that it is of good quality. Danish oil is a mixture of linseed oil and tung oil. The higher the percentage of tung oil, the better. The combination is winning because linseed oil penetrates deep into the wood and shearwood oil creates surface protection. As with tung oil, you apply several coats, and when completely dry the protection will be very good.
Synthetic oils. The appropriate ones are called hard top oil, i.e. hard surface oil. They are specially formulated for such uses and have very good mechanical resistance.
Oils generally form thin films and make the wood stand out. They are recommended for rustic finishes or natural. Their resistance over time may be less than other materials, but the finish can be refreshed without removing old layers.

Lacquers and paints. Nitrocellulose products - some of the most commonly used wood finishing materials - not recommended for kitchen worktops. The film has poor scratch and abrasion resistance, softens in contact with hot sources or alcohol, whitens in prolonged contact with water, and flakes if in permanent contact. Can stain with coffee and wine. It resists soiling much better than wax, but cleaning must be done carefully, without abrasive products.
Hardening varnishes/paints are recommended because they have much better mechanical, physical and chemical resistance. Very good resistance polyurethane varnishes. They resist scratching and high temperatures very well. In general, even if a cigarette is put out on the surface of the countertop, they are generally fine.
The higher the degree of crosslinking, the stronger the lake. In general, the degree of crosslinking is related to the amount of catalyst (hardener) added. A varnish with 100% hardener is harder than one with 50% hardener. The amount of catalyst added is set by the manufacturer, it is not a parameter we can decide.
Polyester or acrylic varnishes with hardening, solvent- or water-based hardeners are also good.

Poutdoor rodwheels not recommended for kitchen countertops. They are formulated to be more elastic, which makes them less hard. Moisture resistance refers to precipitation, not steam or hot water.

No matter how good a finishing product is, it must be applied correctly

Finishing materials may be very good, but they can't work wonders. It's what I used to say when I was selling varnishes and paints, it's what I say now. No matter how good a finishing product is, it cannot reach its full potential unless it is applied correctly. For example, no matter how resistant a varnish is to scratching or knocks, problems can arise if sanding wood or between layers is not properly made. In the event of a knock, the layers can peel off because there is no adhesion. A very visible white streak appears at the site of the dent or scratch. This is not the fault of the varnish but of the sanding.

Another example. For wood to be protected, it needs to be very well coated. If the wood has large pores, it takes several coats, with drying and sanding, to cover them. If only a few coats are applied and the technology is not followed, after a period of time the lacquer will fall in the pores and will not protect as well. The countertop will stain and soil more easily. It's not the varnish's fault, it's the technology's fault.

I hope you find the above information useful. As always, additions are welcome. And if you have any questions or queries, please leave them below in the space provided. I will be sure to reply.