panels

Finishing of solid wood jointed panels

It is not always possible to make furniture from a single piece of solid wood. Especially if the furniture is larger. The solution can come from panels made from solid wood that have been joined together, called solid carpet. These are narrow strips of wood that are joined both lengthways and widthways.

photo source: plus.google.com
photo source: plus.google.com
How to make solid wood panels

To lengthen the solid wood elements, you can make finger-joints or straight joints. The elements are prepared at the ends, glued together, usually with cold glue, and held in presses. In the case of finger-jointing, the elements to which glue has been applied are placed side by side and then cold-pressed until the glue has hardened. After removal from the press the panels are sanded to remove excess adhesive and to calibrate them.

These solid wood jointed panels are a solid wood variant widely used in industry. Due to the joining of several pieces of wood that may behave differently, some problems may occur during finishing. In the following you will find some tips for a flawless finish.

photo source: arsap.fordaq.com
photo source: arsap.fordaq.com
Staining of solid wood panels

The colouring carpet may stain due to different absorption. Lumber pieces come from different logs and have different densities. During staining, the berry is absorbed differently resulting in uneven staining. The absorption of the berry also highlights the joints in the teeth.

To reduce absorption, fast evaporating solvent-based wood stains can be used, which do not go deep into the wood. It is a handy method, but increasingly difficult to use because of environmental requirements related to the emission of volatile organic compounds (VOCs).

To eliminate the problem of VOCs, water soluble baths can be used. It is known, however, that water-based stains absorb deeply, highlighting the wood's grain. In the case of a solid wood carpet that absorbs differently is not the best option. That is why it is best to dilute the stains with a mixture of water and a special resin that reduces the absorption, thus achieving a uniform stain.

Also for a uniform look, staining can be done with coloured primer, with the recommendation to control very well the amount of stain in the primer and the thickness of the layer applied so that the finish does not look plastic.

Another drawback of using solid wood jointed panels is the discontinuity of the design. While solid wood is stained in such a way as to bring out the natural pattern of the wood, in the case of panels a discreet, uniform stain is usually chosen.

If the staining solution is not compatible with the adhesive used for gluing, a fine white line appears along the joint. The defect is not very common because the adhesives commonly used for gluing are compatible with most staining solutions. For rare cases where there is no compatibility it is recommended to use an isolator before staining the panel.

photo source: woodpan.com
photo source: woodpan.com
photo source: glopan.com
photo source: glopan.com
Defects that may occur after varnishing

Fine holes may appear along the solder lines following the application of film-forming materials. The defect resembles pore dropping of the finish and occurs due to the small amount of adhesive applied. In order to avoid holes the adhesive is applied in excess. When the solid elements are squeezed into the press to form the panel the excess must come out. This excess is removed by sanding.

If the defect still occurs, before finishing begins, the panels are grouted with a putty compatible with the staining solution and primer to be applied. If, however, fine holes have been observed at the end of the finishing process, an attempt can be made to repair them using touch-up putties of the same colour as the panels. This solution is valid for very small defects, otherwise the putty will make the situation worse.

photo source: korturk.com
photo source: korturk.com

Solid wood panels are a great solution for solid wood furniture. They are stable, easy to process and if a few rules are followed the finish can be very successful.

About the author

Mihaela Radu

Mihaela Radu is a chemical engineer but has a great passion for wood. She has been working in the field for more than 20 years, wood finishing being what defined her during this period. She gained experience working in a research institute, in her own company, as well as in a multinational. She wants to continuously share her experience with those who have the same passion - and more.

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  • What solutions do you recommend for finishing a solid wood panel used as a kitchen worktop. We do not recommend solid wood for this part, but it is insisted on and there are many requests. I am not aware of a viable solution, which in the medium term - 2-3 years will not show warping in real used kitchens. I'm not talking about museum kitchens, where no cooking is done, but those with sinks and stoves or ovens used daily, frequently.

    • I understand it's about the wooden table top in a functional kitchen. In this case you should use a harder polyurethane varnish with high scratch resistance (like parquet varnish). Even so, customers should know that they cannot cut directly with a knife on the worktop without leaving marks. Lacquer applied with a spray gun, without special technology, has its limits. You could get a very high resistance if you applied a UV hardening varnish, but for it you need UV line. My recommendation is to use polyurethane varnish with catalyst 100% but to inform your customers how to use the top (no direct cuts). The varnish resists without problems also to humidity in a working kitchen and to hot liquids (hot pots). As the wood used is oak (so I suspect 🙂 ) the worktop will have a good resistance over time. I hope I understood your question correctly. Good luck!

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