Whitewash or white washed finish - materials and techniques

A whitewash finish, or whitewash as we already call it, uses white not to cover the wood but to enhance it even more. Lately there seems to be a passion for this finish, being chosen for furniture as well as parquet or wood cladding. Probably out of a desire to have a bright interior without hiding the wood many prefer this kind of finish. The finish can also be used to transform old pieces of furniture, giving them new life. It looks great on reclaimed wood, and the contrast between the dark colour acquired over time and the fresh white is much appreciated.

Characteristics of a whitewash finish

The term white washed finish is used for several types of finishes. They all have in common that the white does not completely cover the wood. A white washed finish is also considered to be one in which the entire piece of furniture is covered with a semi-transparent white coating, but also one in which natural wood design is marked by a white bath or patina. If you want the furniture or flooring you order to be white washed it is best to exemplify with a photo. Otherwise you may be surprised because the difference in techniques makes the final look very different.

The most common choice for parquet is to mark the pores and the natural pattern of the wood. The long elements of oak, frasin or other large-pore essences go well with this finish. The appearance is pleasant and bright. So well has this type of finish caught on that it is also used as a print (design) for laminate flooring.

For furniture the washed effect is often used to the limit with efect distressed. Sometimes they are even confused, as there is no very clear demarcation but more of perception. A distressed finish done evenly over the entire surface of the furniture can look very much like a whitewash finish.

The effect is best highlighted by the flader cuts of the wood, where the annual rings create that cathedral-like design as it is still known. In poreless wood such as resinousThe different absorption in the latewood and earlywood areas of the annual ring gives the difference between wood hidden under the paint (earlywood, which absorbs more) and visible wood (latewood). The effect is visible immediately after staining, but looks better if a light sanding is done.

Materials used

Best behaved skates or paints. The varnishes generally stain the wood, failing to achieve the contrast between coated and 'clean' wood. One can try with even-toned woods followed by sanding, but it is better to use a paint.

The main problem with the effect is the transparent product with which the final coating is made. There are few materials that manage to keep that clean white at the end. Many of them give a yellow or cream tint, more or less pronounced, which displeases those who want that bright, clean white.

Those who prefer waxes and oils should know to look for those that don't change colour, as these products generally yellow. Oil of The flax in the content (present even in the composition of the skies) turns yellow over time and changes the appearance of the finish. There are also skies that retain their natural colour wood or finish. As for oils, there are even semi-transparent white oils that protect while creating the white washed effect.

The lacquers that retain their effect best are those ofsolvent-based acrylics or some of the water-based ones. The recommendation is that the gloss of these varnishes should be low, as the finish is not one of those that look good when glossy. It's a finish that comes into rustic category and rustic, as I said, has nothing in common with aggressive gloss.

Techniques and tips for achieving the whitewash effect

There are different ways to achieve the whitewash effect, the end result is different. Of these 3 are the most commonly used. Let's take them one by one.

1. Staining with a semi-transparent paint

It's not one of my favorites because I don't like the end result. It is, however, a favourite effect of others because it is simple to achieve. Basically, a paint is used that does not completely cover the wood. No sanding or other artifice is needed to achieve this effect.

The recommendation is to apply 1-2 coats of clear primer before applying the paint. This allows sanding between coats to obtain smooth surfaces with a pleasant tint. Finally apply a coat of white semi-transparent paint. To achieve the desired degree of transparency use a normal white paint which you dilute 1:2, 1:1 or 2:1 with thinner (or water, if water soluble). It is not good to go too far with the dilution because you will get a very fluid paint, difficult to apply. If you want more transparency, use semi-transparent paints or a uniforming varnish over which you apply a transparent varnish.

Too little dilution may result in total coating of the wood and you will need sanding. In this case the effect will be different and we will deal with it immediately. But you won't get that uniform semi-transparent white veil-like coating covering the wood.

2. Using white skates

It is the recommended method for marking pores and natural wood grain. It is best to apply the patina over a coat of primer. This way you can sand to a surface that is pleasant to the touch and also control the amount of patina applied.

Patina is applied to the dried and sanded primer with a brush, trowel or spray gun. After drying it is sanded. The patina will remain in the pores and areas of wood where absorption is higher. The effect is very interesting and it is possible to obtain discreetly patinated surfaces (in the pores and on the outline of the flanges) or to have a fairly balanced proportion between coated and clean areas.

The effect obtained must be protected with a layer of wax or transparent varnish.

3. Painting followed by sanding

It is the method that is very similar to distressed. The difference is that in distressed the aim is to achieve the effect of the passage of time, of a layer of paint destroyed by use, whereas with whitewash there is a partial covering of the wood, as if the lime applied to a wooden surface had been washed away by rain.

Best achieved using white paint. To avoid working too hard to remove it, you can make a slightly higher dilution than a normal application. Application can be done with a brush, trowel or spray gun. After drying sand the wood along the grain removing more or less paint depending on the desired effect. Finally the surface is protected with wax or varnish.

The method can also be used if you want to change the appearance of an old piece of furniture. The condition is that the furniture is in the natural colour of the wood. This is the only way to achieve the whitewash effect. On furniture that has been painted or with the wood stained in dark colours, the distressed effect is achieved.

Conclusions

Whitewash or white washed finish brightens up rooms and highlights the natural pattern of the wood. Depending on the method used, different results are achieved. The effect should be achieved on wood in its natural colour, not stained. Protect the effect with varnishes or waxes that do not yellow so that the colour does not change to cream or yellowish. Do not use glossy varnishes as the effect falls into the rustic category and gloss does not 'blend' well with rustic.

I hope the recommendations I have made will be helpful to you when deciding that a whitewash finish would be a good fit for your home.